gts4-skyline

Yea, front right is 5mm higher than the front left and the rear right is about 3mm lower than the rear left. I suppose I should get them all the same first. I might raise them all to 350mm first and get a wheel alignment to check. What would the max camber be before you look at getting camber adjusters. I would only do about 7000-10000km per year. Thanks for your replys. how long will this group buy be on for and how much would shipping be to NZ Cheers

Height is 330mm all round, the camber is both front and rear(RL=rear left, RR=rear right etc) maybe I will wind it up to 350mm then. Should that take the camber back to acceptable or will I still need the camber kits. Also would I need a wheel alignment If I just raised the suspension, I assume all the other settinfs should remain the same. Cheers

I have HKS coilovers with a ride height of 330mm form the center of wheel to guard. Problem is, my camber is at -2.47 RL, -2.09 RR, -2.3 FL & -1.44 FR. What would be the best way to fix this as it doesn't look like the whiteline camber kit adjusts enough. Or will I have to raise my car up a bit. Cheers

Would these fit into the factory space in the center of the dash on a R34 Gtt. If not, do you know what will. I think the HPI R34 used aftermarket ones but I'm not sure what make or size they were. Cheers

And when you have the center nut loose, leave it on a couple of turns while you pull the steering wheel, otherwisw you may end up with a flatter nose or a sore forehead

Unfortunatly we dont have a great deal of tuners, only 2 that do this sort of stuff, and they don't have the datalogit, infact I think the car owners usually buy it to save money on tuning time. Would the datalogit be different from the R34 GTT and R34 GTR?

Thanks Sydneykid. I have spoken to another tuner about this and reckons about $200, the dyno owner charges a setup fee(approx$60) plus about $80 per hour for the dyno, plus the tuners time. I'm in 2 minds as to get a power fc or not, apparently to tune one can be fairly costly because it takes a while using the hand controller and I'm not sure I want to go any further with modifications. What sort of power can the r34 engines handle? because I have heard that because of the compression they run anything over about 230-240rwkw is a bit dicey. There's alot of conflicking advice out there. Sorry about all the questions, but you seem to be up with the play. As apposed to alot of the opinionated guys on SDU :-)

I think they took fuel out, I'm not totaly sure. When I first installed it and we did a road tune we took fuel out, but not sure what happeded on the dyno tune because I wasn't there, and I didn't ask

anybody else have any ideas?

One of the guys over here wants to borrow mine to get a copy, so I'll see how he goes copying them and let you know. I don't know much about computers and that sort of thing, and I don't have a DVD burner so I can't try it myself

One of the guys on SDU put the 90, 91, 92 complete races onto DVD a couple of years back. I have a copy of them but I'm in NZ, Im sure a couple of guys from here bought them. It was 2 discs per race which was digitalised from VCR, which was recorded from the live television coverage over here.

Am I too late for this, I may possably want one, but I have a friend who wants to come around tonight and order one, he has been jerked around over here by the person he was dealing with. How much would shipping be to New Zealand.

Thanks for that, do you think a retune would fix the problem, and atleast get me back to the 208kw mark, maybe even higher. Another option would be to hopefully jump onto the Power FC group buy and get one of those. Which means later down the track if I feel the need for more power the ecu is already there. What is involved in fitting on of these, I assume you can use what the SAFC was pluged into plus some more wires? Thanks for you input Sydneykid, much appreciated

There was no boost cut as far as I could hear, also one of the runs on the second chart was at 11psi. After reading one of the threads on here I thought it could have been a boost issue, but it only ran slightly less. The inflated figure on the first chart could be due to it being a hub dyno, which usually gives a higher reading due to no loss through the tyres and wheelspin on the rollers.

Well, after fitting a 3"dump and front pipe, and turning the boost up to 12 psi I have lost 12 rwkw. It has an electronic boost controller and SAFC II, which was tuned a couple of weeks ago without the Dump pipe and achieved 208 rwkw on about 10psi. After fitting the dump pipe the graphs look alot smoother, but where would the power dissapear to and should I spend another $300 to get the SAFC tuned again?