Trozzle

My tacho used to intermittently play up immediately after turning the key to IGN. With my ECU (ViPEC v44) it's set up to sweep from 0rpm up to 7000rpm and back to 0rpm when you turn the key on before starting the engine. When playing up, it will go immediately to 7000rpm, then drop and point directly downward. Turning the ignition off then back on again will see it flick back up to 7000rpm, but fall down again. The first few times it did this, turning ignition off then back on again a few times would sort it out. A while later when it did it again, it didn't fix itself until the engine was brought up to roughly 3500 - 4000rpm at which point it would flick to the correct rpm immediately, then proceed to function correctly. Unfortunately now, it won't play ball at all. When I rev it out slowly, it will begin to climb ANTI CLOCKWISE from around 4000rpm, up until reaching 7000rpm (going backwards though...) at which point it will remain there until the revs drop - even upon hitting rev limiter. It doesn't seem to be affecting anything adversely, so my car still runs fine. I haven't got a laptop to plug into the ECU and watch what it says about the RPM while the engine is running though, but given it runs at all the fault has to be somewhere between the ECU output and the tacho itself. Anyone got any suggestions? I'm thinking the tacho itself is farked, which sucks but isn't the end of the world. Just wanna see if anyone has had a similar issue - particularly with this ECU. video:

He's gotta be a troll man. 50mm Tial BOV? Sounds more like a wastegate. GT42r @ 45psi? Bit of a serious car to be asking such a stupid question.

lol

Come on man, you didn't event put effort into this. 3/10

I'd figured it was about this, but what shits me about it is POWER IS POWER. There's no point in saying "this is how much power it WOULD have made given different intake temp etc". It's just stupid. It made a certain power. End of story. You could have a correction that could potentially make it have +50% of the power it actually made. In that case there's no point even showing a power figure, as the dyno is good for nothing but a stationary way to load the engine for tuning. Sorry just a rant, there are many things in this world that are just f**king stupid lol

Alrighty, tyres are on the car. On full lock, the inside of the tyre contacts something...have only tested once right after I picked the car up, but haven't bothered checking with the car stationary - not a major concern. I haven't noticed the outside edge hitting the guard lip on suspension compression though...not to say that it can't, but it might just be that it either cambers inwards appropriately to clear or that my coilovers don't let it compress that far without hitting something significant So far so good, 255/40/r17 aren't posing an issue on 17x9" +30 rims

observe twats resurrecting threads

bahaha....yeah I wanna get a wbo2 first

God damnit I want to get tuned for E85 now!!!! I'm running a pissy 17psi (dropping to 16) on 98 I'd love to up it to 19psi on e85....stop bumping these damned threads! you're giving me bad ideas

The only reasons why "high" boost will break a motor is from either the turbo being out of efficiency hence detonation from higher charge temps, or because it's simply too much power.

just have the warn bit on the inside lol Not to mention I dare say having warn tread where it's bloody hard to see is the least of your defect worries

ahhhh lol no it was I who misinterpreted it! Continue, forget I said anything

Also keen depending on date

now that I've looked at it closely, almost flush ffs lol that's why I was saying they're good for nothing but skids really

you mean 250rwkw in that last post?

Not what I mean as such. Everything might be in the right spots, but that doesn't mean the exhaust isn't pulling downward on the turbo. When I had my front/dump pipe fitted, the place doing it didn't bother welding on any supports around the cat to hold the middle of the exhaust system up. This meant that after the turbo, the first thing holding my exhaust off the ground was all the way back just in front of the rear axle. I don't even want to imagine the stress the turbo would have copped each and every time I hit a bump/went over a dip in the road. Make sure there's something supporting the weight of the exhaust piping around the cat, and preferably NOT one of the rubbing mountings (as they still have give in them, defeating the point so close to the turbo. If you do have something, then I suppose that would more or less rule this theory out. Good luck though!

There we go Pat

late edit: doesn't bother me, but I won't be coming. I'll be in europe from end of may til beginning july.

Maybe your exhaust isn't properly supported so it's putting more stress on the manifold, and it's shit itself when it's got real hot?

Depends where you're gonna get it tuned man. ESP = ViPEC Autotech = PFC/Autronic Personally I went ViPEC coz PFC for R33 GTS-T is old as all hell and hard to find a good condition 2nd hand one, plus the support from ViPEC is amazing. Call them with a question or query and 99% of the time they'll put you straight onto Ray Hall himself. Good bloke too.

I know this isn't the place for this question, but this is as good of a time as any to ask it.... I don't understand the point of "corrections" on a dyno. The car makes X power. End of story. It made a specific figure, why should that be altered "just because"? It sounds similar to someone trying to give you the temperature, but adding on (or subtracting as the case would be) wind-chill. That isn't accurate, and shouldn't be counted. Same goes for different corrections for 4 cyl, 6 cyl turbo, 8 cyl, etc. WTF?

Just to be a prick, the word "circa" is for dates

oh in that case..... haha

ehh you flamin mongrel lol iiiiiiiiight breh. I didn't consider it before since most people in there are NSW based and posting 2 tyres to sydney is pointless lol...i'll chuck em in now.

Yeah definitely legal man. They were the front tyres, so never got overused lol. I'll get ya some pics this arvo