Trozzle

Yes. Nistune would be the best option, but not so much with an R33. You need to use it with either a Z32 300zx ECU or R32 GTS-T ECU w/ separate VCT switch to keep variable inlet cam timing. I'd past the Nismoid shit again, but you already know by now - do a search, there's a huge thread on Nistune in this section

Dude you don't know SHIT! Linking drifts gets you f**king awesome multipliers, just don't hit anything or you lose the whole combo!!!

I can't tell if you're trolling or serious.....either way I'm sorry but honestly I don't think it deserves any answer but...

QFT

ah ok, fair enough. That's quite sexy. If you were southside, I'd recommend taking it to Lanyon Service Centre, he was easy going with me...though I'm sure someone like Pat will be able to recommend a northside place to go for inspection.

it also weighs 25kg if I recall correctly, whereas my lock bar wouldn't have weighed more than 3kg

depends where you go.....dickson might not like the HICAS lock bar itself, which they will notice regardless of the light....anywhere else won't give 2 shits I reckon. Where are you located in Canberra? Also on a side note, what colour is your GT-R?

over 9000

pull the bulb out from behind the cluster, that will f**k the light off lol. Otherwise, there's a rather expensive little thing you can buy that that you plug into the cabling where the HICAS used to be that tricks it into thinking it's working. The only downside to doing neither of these is that the light will always be on. Mine has been on for quite a while now, you don't notice it after a little bit

So potentially the EBC is the problem, when it needs to begin bleeding air to raise boost above the actuator's base spring resistance. Like I speculated, this would be some kind of gain setting. I'd say as others already have, time to take it to someone such as Yavuz @ Unigroup and have him fiddle with the EBC.

Nulon 10w40 "high tech whatever" shit states on the back that it's 100% synth, not "fully synth" that being said, the waxes and shit in there are classed as synthetic, so it may be one of the 100% but actually 75% synthetics. Either way, I'm running it and there's been no issues, I'm yet to see how it comes out though.

Hicas as I have read doesn't move any more than 1 degree in either direction, so really fk all. given how old it is, it's on it's last legs as it is if it's still working. Mine was throwing the warning light on occasionally, so I figured since I was getting other suspension work done anyway, extra $99 for the lock bar was nothing and might as well be done.

That owner I believe was in a rush due to moving overseas or something, so yes hopefully it might still be there for you, though don't take that as the "going price" - it's a rare occasion

No. No we can't. There's use for it yet....

Damn you!! I'd allege she caught them from you on the weekend, though I don't like holidays

That's damn good imo! Would be sweet with a proper EBC to hold it steady and perhaps come on a tad earlier. Otherwise that's a crazy result.

Only when you're ready Reece, that's what we agreed on. Together. You and me.

....... or God forbid, a 32

You'd know about that

Yep, as long as you can get a 0-5 volt output or something from it, and know what the voltage means in terms of ethanol content, you could wire it into a ViPEC ECU (among others) and set it up as a fuel and/or ign timing trim

I alleged that another moderator has fleas, so she changed my name. rofl.

That's exactly what a boost controller does to increase the boost.

Wait, there's one thing you haven't told us: what is FULL BOOST? By that I mean, what does it make when you have the boost controller plugged in @6000rpm? If you have 8psi actuators (that's a problem in itself, way too weak) and running it at say, 20psi through the boost controller, then the boost controller settings are the problem. I would assume that's a gain setting of some kind, sounds like it's letting the boost come on very very slowly after it starts having to bleed air out, which is causing it to climb from 8psi to full boost at a snail's pace.

Well that doesn't make sense..... There is NO WAY a boost controller can cause boost to come on LATER. NO. WAY.

LOST: Dignity REWARD: $50