Trozzle

f**k yeah man that's hot!

Yeah I realised it meant a can of compressed CO2, hence really cold. Where do you live/where can I get the suction cap off you? Also, I have no idea how to get the armrest off lol...but that would also be perfect

Paul - Don't have a compressor lol. EDIT: watched the video, while I'm sure it probably works to some degree, my own logic plus the comments on that video mean I'll never try it on my skyline thanks anyway though! Matt - I'd say it's DIRECTLY on the other side of the....ummm.....uhhh.....what WOULD be the inside of the door for the rear seats if it were a 4 door. Below the rear side window. Otherwise the GoPro kit I have didn't come with the suction mount DAS KAMU - sweet I'll check em out. Eiji - umm to be honest I don't know where the dent starts lol, but it's a fairly large (like 20cm+) area that's popped inwards.

Yeah so when I was parking my finally-running car in the garage today, I made the mistake of turning the wheel at the wrong time and pushing the side of my car against a large pile of carpet tiles I have. I now have a rather large dent in the panel which thankfully has no "sharp" points on it so all I need to do is pop it back out. If it's simply part of the panel that's popped itself in, where could I find a good suction cap to put against it and pull it out? I was thinking a GPS windscreen mount would do perfectly, but I don't have one lol. Thoughts? Suggestions? I'm also going to have fun removing all the black rubber scuff marks on the paint now, and hope to fking God that none of them are scratches This thread is mainly to vent, but hopefully someone can suggest somewhere I could find an appropriate suction cup as well

yes. If the leak is big enough in your case, you'll be sucking in air that hasn't been measures by the AFM while idling or off-boost. This will cause you to run lean, and missfire like a 14yr old boy at a wet T-shirt comp.

if you have a leak as well, you should blow a small amount of black smoke on boost. some of the air will escape the intake piping, but since it's still being measured by the AFM the correct amount of fuel will be going in as though there wasn't a leak. Unless you're running a MAP sensor like me. then you're screwed for this idea lol

lol my car is a good ride height! When I took it into Inline, Chris asked how low I wanted it. I told him to raise it if he thought it would handle better. It's certainly not LOW low

Well I'll end up pushing the turbo into it's correct comfort zone when I get back from Europe later in the year....then when my engine goes pop, I'll be able to keep using it. For now, it's still perfectly good for what it's doing.

lol Pat, I'm not sure where around the cotter I must have driven, but there's no comparison between what I drove on and the way to the coast. Coast is much better (while still kinda ghey)

DVS32R, yeah that's correct due to the mixture burning later in the power cycle, hence less time to cool before leaving the cylinder. Also Stao, yeah he was deliberately keeping power low up top to conserve the engine. I agreed with this choice. This tune is somewhat mild all over though for the same reason.

Spotted my car starting up again...took it for a drive with only the front pipe again to ensure all is well, but didn't get a chance to give it any due to it being late and the sheer VOLUME of the exhaust.

homo. But nah man up to Honeysuckle creek turnoff is just appalling....feels like I'm going to bounce off the corners or get slammed by a pothole although I DO agree with you regarding roads around dickson....what the shit.

sorry my bad. lol then consider what I blurted a backup and detail of what you said

I've heard that before too. the only thing that I can't make sense of with it is that we add timing to gain power, so why would less also make more? Also, why do we add timing in midrange? For improved torque? I thought torque was constant for a given power@rpm, so doesn't that also conclude that power at that particular rpm increased when timing was added? But yeah main point is that the same tuner also mentioned that ripping out a heap of timing somehow increased peak power, and this was used as a shortcut for dyno queens or something... Also, I'd go find the AFR sheet as well from the hypergear thread, but cbf. Mid to high rpm the mixture was roughly 11.5AFR, then at the end of the run it was down to about 11.1AFR

oooooo no sorry there's no way in hell I'm going near the cotter. i don't care what you all say, those roads are f**king unacceptable. And coast will be too far for a day trip, can't afford the excessive use of petrol....especially given I desperately need new rear tyres I'm more for a cruise around canberra for the hell of it, I wanna make sure there's nothing else wrong with my car before I go too far with it.

I *might* be keen for something, if my car is on the road. I should have my exhaust back on this afternoon, and hopefully she runs well as it should. Only other foreseeable issue I have with the car will be suspension/steering feeling sloppy and loose, and VERY nasty camber wear on the rears. Otherwise I'm at least keen to come out for a little while

You trollin bro?

Nah, the one closer to the block. Now that i have acceptable lighting this morning, it looked like the gasket might be to blame. I can feed a skewer into the hole and it goes in far enough, but if I hold it at the top of the hole it stops on something. Gasket might have a small amount of play in it and it sitting low. It's just so damn fiddly lol

Should have it running tomorrow arvo got all the intake piping done this evening, just gotta work out why the fk one of the 2 bolts up the top of the dump pipe won't go in :S

haha no I only got the turbo into place. Am now doing the intake piping and exhaust while the battery charges (thanks Eiji!)

I almost got my turbo in by myself!! lol I think even if I'd done it in time, after doing that shithouse job entirely by myself for the first time I was far too buggered to do anything

Well the spring's resistance would need to be progressive. Like I said, as revs increase so does exhaust flow. The amount of resistance required to control the wastegate grows exponentially with revs. The spring's resistance is constant. The only way to decrease the forces acting against the wastegate+actuator is to either let off the throttle, or somehow restrict the pressure acting against the actuator. This is where a boost controller comes in. Also a current issue I've had with the wastegate setup is due to damage during transit the first time I received the turbo (security peeps opened the box for inspection and did a shit job of positioning the turbo when they closed it again, wastegate took a beating). My wastegate wasn't closing completely. Even though it was as closed as you were going to get it, 99% of the time the flapper wasn't creating a seal. This was allowing a small amount of exhaust to pass through the wastegate even when not on boost. The moment exhaust begins to pass the wastegate, it becomes monumentally more difficult for the actuator to hold it closed. This is why people always say to use an actuator with a spring resistance CLOSEST to the boost level you wish to be running, then use a boost controller to bump it up and control it. Otherwise we'd all be running 5psi actuators and controlling the boost up to 20psi.

Yeah Stao was explaining it to me and it all makes sense. More exhaust flow = more pressure pushing against the wastegate flapper. This increase in pressure against the flapper on top of the boost pressure pushing against the actuator spring will make it harder to hold the gate closed as rpm climbs.

Here's the dyno sheet from when I got it retuned for the increased boost. Not that the boost actually climbs back up a tiny bit when the tuner took out timing in the top end...

it came up to 17psi then bled down to 15.9psi by red line. This was with NO boost controller at all, just straight to the actuator. No actuator will hold boost flat through the rev range without a controller before it.