Trozzle

bah lol....nah sorry man $1000 would be the lowest I'd go. Like I said, I don't need to get rid of them....just figured if I sold them, I could then cough up and buy W1ngnut's GTC's

ice

I only have one for low beams....and never use high beam anyway. My high beam SUCKS ASS, and my lows are blindingly bright enough to do the job. I often drive back from sydney after midnight in the pitch black only with low beams, does the job fine.

$1100ono FARK

potentially it could cause damage, but mine's been doing it since I bought the car in april last year (and god knows how long before that) and it's never even blown bulbs...if something dies inside there as a result, you're in the same boat as you would be if you chose to replace them now. good luck with the boot issue, hopefully it's the same as my problem easy fix, hopefully you're not like me though and just couldn't be fked.

warm

Moisture in indicator is almost unavoidable unfortunately, very fine cracks will cause moisture to get in there when it's humid/raining...either go nuts with some silastic or spend hundreds on new tail light assemblies If there's moisture in the boot, you might have the same problem as me. Remove your spare tyre - in the well that it sits in, there will be a couple of holes in the bottom. I think there will be at least 1 small hole (10c piece size) and one fking huge one (like 10cm diametre) There should in theory be a rubber plug for at least this large hole....if you've got the same issue as me, then you won't have a plug lol. Water can spray up off the road and into this hole, in turn finding it's way into the boot. Just cover the hole with something, like a flat piece of rubber that you can cut to size (a little larger of course) and sit over top, or a flat piece of wood....or whatever you want lol

lol of course standards are ceramic fair enough though, I've either misinterpreted something, or been giving the wrong info myself

Are they in series or parallel? I seem to remember them being in series, so if one has died, none of them will work. If this is the case, just gotta find out which one.

I thought I read somewhere that only the 34 N1 or something weren't ceramic....or moreso, that at least one of the "N1" turbos wasn't steel compressor AND exhaust.

hmm...good food for thought there Birds, appreciated Unfortunately, not because I'm a fanboi or anything, but moreso because I'm not entirely keen to take a (no doubt non-existent) risk, I'd rather still to a full synth just "in case" lol....although I might still give it a shot. What's the price on the M5000 Birds? That'll probably sell it to me. Regarding the breaking down of the oil, I change every 5000kms (oil and filter) anyway, so that should cover my ass lol

Depends how much he really cares if his compressor wheels find their way through the intercooler lol

yeah that small is nothing. I remember speaking to my tuner when I was having my car finished up just the other week...he was saying about the measures they took to keep the max power DOWN, by retarding the timing up top. He then went on to explain that they could only do this so far, until the exhaust temps got too hot...I love it when you don't even need to pick a mechanic's brain for him to feed you with good information as they just tell you everything anyway.

Antilag just doesn't spark at all I believe. It allows unburnt air/fuel mixture to leave the cylinder, which ends up ingniting in the manifold, and spools the turbo significantly. This gas also has a negative effect on the life of the turbo, as it's making it a lot hotter than it normally would be. If you're correct Marc, and antilag is simple extremely retarded timing, then my point still stands - it's not good for the turbo lol

what on earth have you got planned?

This is in relation to exhaust temperatures. The further you retard the timing, the hotter the combusted mixture is when it leaves the cylinder. Think of it in extremes - if you retarded the ign timing so far that it was igniting the mixture just as the exhaust valve opened, you would have the mixture burning straight out the manifold. This would be bad.

lol Terry....nicely done Anyone? $1000?

lol Mohsen, love the reference

kunce. lol well I've heard nothing at all, so who knows. I can almost certainly say that he wasn't sitting up my ass to provoke me or trap me - he was only there for my number plate.

Just don't worry about taking off in any kind of "quick" manner lol...don't rev it up above 1000rpm if you can get the clutch control spot on...that will allow for some slip without burning the poor thing to death from higher rpm

a bit rough is better than a lot of slip and stinky clutch

Thanks for more imput buddy, hopefully helps with someone making an offer. lol.

I'm sure I'm just one of the ignorant fools out, but isn't mineral oil vastly inferior to synthetic? Of course a TERRIBLE quality synth is going to be worse than a really high quality mineral....but since they're the same company....why would you use M5000??

Any offers on the wheels? I'll post pics of the gutter rash if anyone would like. Throw offers guys

Devil^^ But yes I have!! lol December 28th 2005, 17 years old. Feel old now?