Trozzle

spark

For $119 +shipping for the Just Jap silicone intake, get yourself a metal intake setup fabricated for a bit more. Not paying that much for a rubber pipe.

Yeah good man, keep everything documented!

^^^ FFS TiTAN I was gonna sig that quote. Bastard.

Honestly don't know how much you're gonna hear on a video....I have some LOLiPhone in-car footage from Pat (Randon_I_am) on the skidpan where you can hear it a little bit...his is an R34 GT-T w/ 3" metal intake... www.facebook.com/trozzle should get you my profile, I honestly don't know if you'll be able to see the video without being my friend. If you can't see my video uploads, add me. I'll accept it and then you can have a snoop.

That boost control is amazing. Can you get a ruler onto that graph just to make sure it's perfectly flat? lol

you'll appreciate the induction sound from steel piping too love the sound of mine on boost!

lol yeah dude I agree. Canberra cops are an odd bunch...I might not have P's displayed as I'm on my fulls, but for quite some time I had no front plate, and tint that you couldn't see out of at night, or into during the day. Cops didn't bother me at all... Even when I got pulled up for speeding on Adelaide ave the other night (yes...I know...was sitting on 90 in 80 zone) the cop just told me to be careful coz I stand out a little bit. It's all in the attitude in this town.

Ignorance

Also, no way I'm keen to go out given the weather. I'm supposed to be giving an ~18psi actuator a go on the turbo to see if it will build to 16psi (overboost cut), but in this weather I can't even find 5psi without losing traction lol...

Yeah Stephan mate, note the name of the thread - "Friday Night Not at Museum" We meet at Grevellia Park

bahahaha yeah man was sitting there going "Why doesn't it feel weird that some random in an EVO waved at me...?" I knew that I knew who was driving, just couldn't think of where or why

so more or less, it's not at all for use in cars. No worries thanks

SirLordVanVonVader'ham oh wait, shit...that was the one BEFORE gay...umm Happy

They're good guys, straight to the point. A little over-cautious with some things (stock internal engines being tuned for powah lol) but otherwise, I'm very happy with the service I received from ESP. I hated the invoice though but the job was done correctly as I would have liked it done.

makeup

bullshit

technology

disease

cheese

http://www.motul.com.au/product_line_up/4s.../4stroke16.html Is there any reason as to why this would not be suitable for a car? It looks like it's aimed at motorcycles, but it isn't specifically for wet clutch or integrated gearbox....just a 4-stroke. It's 10w40, so it would be great as I'm after a 10w40 oil. Thoughts?

wtf?

This is my current setup of vac lines. Nothing has changed with this since I last made 15psi. Like I said, even running straight from cooler pipe to actuator nets the same result of ~10psi There are only 2 logical outcomes: I have a leak in the vac line from the manifold for my boost READING (gauges), or the actuator is faulty. The first possibility would fail to explain the reduction in power though.

Insanity (^^ I work there. Work being the inoperative word....as I've done nothing all day)

I don't know what it's showing in the image, but I've tried it both ways (having T-piece connected; as well as running straight from cooler piping to actuator) The ViPEC ECU can utilise the factory boost solenoid to bleed boost, acting as an electronic controller. This is why it was originally still hooked up. Even though it was connected, the ECU was not utilising it to control boost. Unless I am mistaken, as well as a LOT of people before me, you cannot INCREASE pressure between the cooler piping and the actuator with the stock boost solenoid. If the solenoid is my issue, then not only is it doing something it should in no way possible be able to do, but it would have been resolved when I ran a single uninterrupted hose from the nipple on my cooler piping directly to the actuator as it had been completely removed from the system. I don't mean to sound like I'm ranting, or fishing for the answer I want, but I feel as though I'm a student educating my teacher a little. If there is any leak at all between the boost source (intercooler piping) and the actuator, be it a split in the hose, bleed valve, or the stock solenoid doing it's job, this will result in an INCREASE IN BOOST. The only way I could decrease my boost below the minimum, would be to plumb in some kind of pump before the actuator.