Trozzle

Just PM it to him. Don't post it in public view

idle

Also Ash, almost all of Stao's customers are using their Hypergear turbo on a street-driven car. Mine is my daily for example. Unless I wheelspin into the limiter, I rarely even see myself over 6000rpm anyway. Hell, I almost never do. Too much noise, and really no point when I'm more than likely exceeding the speed limit by the time my power "drops off" in 2nd gear. Don't even talk about 3rd gear unless we wanna get the thread locked, as I'm well and truly speeding my way to a loss of license. If you're using these turbos on a track car, then you aren't totally serious about your times and competition. Let's face it, anyone who owns a dedicated track car that isn't driven on the street/daily can afford, and will buy the "better" Garrett options. This is simply because they more than likely have money to throw around for teh lulz.

Nah, hasn't changed. Same nipple as before. I'll be trying out an ~18psi actuator that held 17psi without issue on another owner's R34 GT-T with this same turbo - only downside is I'll need to get it retuned a little more extensively than I'd hoped

dispose

script

Yeah good point (I could also be wrong about that being the MAP sensor. I'm going off what someone told me - not the workshop mind you) Still, it shouldn't make a difference where it's plumed in my issue, as I'm experiencing the problem while the throttle is open.

we talking intake manifold or exhaust manifold? Definitely not the exhaust manifold, as that was swapped for a near-new manifold off a NEO motor at the same time as the turbo was installed. Also, no sounds to indicate it (had broken studs and leaking gasket before) as well as it making boost without the actuator receiving boost source. The only reason I'm strongly leaning against a leak of ANY kind, is the fact that the wastegate is opening, essentially capping my boost at ~10psi as long as the vac line is giving it a boost source.

this is assuming he wants big power/is going to build the motor before it goes in.

and as Harey said - all of Stao's results are run on 2 different dynos - Dr Drift and Status Tuning. Mostly Status.

Yeah, I'm not saying that the ATR43G2 is the same as a GT3076R, nor do I mean to directly compare the results when done on different dynos. Consider the range of results, as well as the price. The argument was how much cheaper you can get a genuine Garrett turbo. For this to be valid, you also need to compare a Garrett of similar specs.

absolutely f**king love that lego skit. Housemate and I were crying when we watched it....girlfriends walked into the room....you can imagine the awkward silence (followed by more loling)

I know that Nismoid, but when considering the cost difference....

When I was looking around for a 3076R I/W kit, the "best" (see: easiest to deal with, complete kit, no dicking around sourcing god knows what for myself) was from CRD for $2795. This kit would come with everything you needed minus gaskets. Essentially the turbo, actuator, and oil line (unsure if it came with water line too...but that would only account for like $100). For $1480 (or $1380 if I supplied my own turbo to Stao...plus postage to get it there) I received the ATR34G2, actuator, and braided oil line. As for results of the 3076R? I've seen people with ~280rwkw @18psi, I've seen ~280rwkw @ 15psi....The ATR43 got me 285rwkw @15psi. I don't think you'd easily source all the parts needed for an equivalent Garrett turbo for close to the price of these, let alone below it.

wow. He might as well freely admit that he was scamming you. What a kunt.

Nothing, other than removing and refitting turbo. Last worked ok Friday night, AFTER refit. No, I didn't have much light to work with when I did the hose clamps. Only vac lines that could be split and cause it to read low would be the one coming from the manifold for the gauge reading - which wouldn't explain the notable drop in power Yes. Even if it was, it would increase boost - not lower it. I have completely removed this line and run the car, and it boosts correctly - beyond what it should (as actuator isn't moving at all). Read the paragraph where I mention I'm running MAP sensor and can hit overboost (16psi) easily.I have also bypassed the factory boost solenoid (controlled via ViPEC ECU - doing NOTHING at this point) by running a single vac line from the intercooler pipe nipple to the actuator, which still did not get me to 15psi. Honestly haven't concentrated on spool time, only watched the gauge as I wound out to about 6500rpm to see how high it got. Feels and sounds like it's hitting 0.75bar at roughly 4000rpm, but this is only from memory.

Hey guys, Just trying to work out if I'm having an actuator issue without being able to test using another actuator...I am currently using a 14psi actuator, which was holding 15psi of boost (showing as a tiny bit above 1 bar on ISC boost gauge). Now when on WOT, the same gauge will show no more than ~0.75bar as well as the stock boost gauge showing around the +7mmHg level. Car also feels very lacking in power, (please ignore the "hoon" thoughts here) and will NOT wheelspin 2nd gear like it would recently when hitting 15psi. This backs up my thoughts that I am certainly not making 15psi. Here is an image of my engine bay showing my intake piping. I have drawn on 2 circles, the top circle above the valley is where the MAP sensor has been tapped into the intake, and the lower circle is where my boost source is coming from for the actuator. The actuator rod has adequate preload wound on (3mm/half circle), and I have tried with anywhere up to 6mm or so of preload with same results. I have ensured that the hose clamps after the boost source (4 clamps) are tight and seated correctly. Since I am running a MAP sensor, car has been tuned for an overboost fuel and ignition cut at 16psi. Since I have this safety, I have removed the hose for the boost source and run effectively "unlimited boost" as the actuator won't see a thing...car will very quickly hit the overboost cut, which also reflects appropriately as a few notches past 1 bar on my boost gauge. As far as I can assume, a significant leak anywhere in my piping would not be causing this issue as the turbo would continue to build boost until the intake saw enough pressure to open the actuator. This thought is backed up by my being able to hit overboost. I can only be led to believe that something has gone amiss with the actuator, and it is opening much earlier than it should be. Are my thoughts correct? Thanks for reading another wall of text, I have a habit of spouting a lot of information.

Vajayjay

And the son of rajab spaketh unto the newbie... And all fell quiet throughout the thread.

derp. ViPEC v44

So, Sir son of rajab Von toof**kinglongtoshowup, nice name brah.

crater

hehe no worries. Read enough stories about this shit....facts and proof will prevail man. Any receipts of payment via bank transfer, all copies of discussion and agreements, etc. Tell him you're going to make the assumption he has no intentions on delivering his side of the agreement, and what he is doing is illegal (chuck in the word fraud if you want, I'm not actually sure what kind of law he's breaking though so this might be the wrong word). Make sure you make it clear that you WON'T pursue the matter any further if he promptly refunds you your money - but if he does not contact you to discuss this immediately, you will take matters further with legal action. Hell, even if you technically couldn't do shit against him, it all comes down to how you present your argument. Thankfully in this case, I'm 99% sure he's up shit creek.

Check the reply brah, has handy links in it. More or less, keep any emails and text messages you've received from him discussing the sale, then take the information to wherever it needs to go. Go down the legal path, because you can get them especially given the information you have on them. Make sure to give them the heads up first, so they have the opportunity to give you your money back.

oh shit. You did NOT! I'm gonna have to find the owner of that Purple 33 GT-R somewhere in Canberra and tell him what you called him, uh-huh yes I will!! rofl