Trozzle

could you please also post up a screencap of your Aux3 settings too? I want to set mine exactly the same and see what happens. Thanks

Yup, and the wastegate isnt fouling on anything. idk what to do...ill call u later or tomorrow to chat tho

ITT: Mark and Michelle being sucky.

There 100% definitely has to be a firmware issue or something with the v44...my A/C button is intermittently functioning correctly without me changing a thing. When it is NOT functioning, my A/C clutch is always engaged. I also tried completely disabling the aux3 and DI3 so they were both being used for nothing, and the clutch is STILL PERMANENTLY ON. I have no idea what's going on man, and I honestly don't know what's up with yours either. Seems to be different things though, I think. It would appear yours just doesn't work, while mine is ALWAYS working.

James does that even make sense? lol

bahahaha, now someone else knows where I live! First it was w1ngnut when I was at my parent's place, now you! lol Don't spose you spotted me under the car swearing my head off?

I'll be out tonight, depending on what time my mate's 20th finishes. No idea on when though, so more than likely it will bite me in the ass and I won't get out until like midnight.

bump.

LOL

I'll give you a large chunk! Come on, you left yourself open for that one (geddit? Left yourself open for a large chunk? hey??? hahahahahaha)

not when most companies want $3k for comprehensive.

I'm making 382rwhp on 15psi out of a hypergear highflow, food for thought.

I'd say that's a pretty good reply imo, while it may not have everything you/we want to hear, at least they don't dick you around

+1

hmm, I'll see...living in Canberra, I'm slightly restricted to whom I can take a ViPEC to...I'll send GT a PM and see if he can help out, otherwise I might have to dick around with it for a while The only thing that really baffles me is that it only works depending on the order in which I perform connecting, storing settings, and starting the engine. Sounds a LOT like a firmware issue

No idea honestly, just "labour" on the invoice. Didn't specify how much time was spent on each thing

K so I went out and started the car again - A/C pump is stuck on again. WTF is the ECU doing? Why is it being emo?

Anyone? lul

reset ECU by disconnecting battery for like 15 minutes. Also check vacuum line going to boost gauge, as if it is reading low perhaps there's a split/leak in it. Jammed actuator(s) for turbos, or wastegate(s) stuck open. Give that a shot, as if they're open a little bit it will cause boost to build very slowly/the car will feel like a slug...what boost was it making and when did it make it?

Alrighty. Both the aux output and digital input were what they should be. For DI-4 (Aircon request), one of the settings is "Pullup resistor ON/OFF" - this was set to OFF. Changed "Pullup resistor" to ON, stored to ECU, disconnected, then started car -AC button turning pump on and off correctly (engine would almost stall when I turn it off though) Connected to ECU while engine running and tried pressing AC button again -not working (pump stuck on) Confirmed "Pullup resistor" still set to ON -it is Stored to ECU again -still not working Disconnected ECU, turned engine off, connected to ECU, stored settings to ECU again, disconnected ECU, started car again -button working again Connected to ECU -not working (pump stuck on) Disconnected, turned car off, started engine, connected, stored to ECU again, disconnected ECU -still not working Disconnected ECU, turned engine off, connected to ECU, stored settings to ECU again, disconnected ECU, started car again -button working again It seems that simply connecting to the ECU while the engine is running breaks the function of the AC pump settings even though I have not changed a thing. I don't remember the outcome of connecting to the ECU while engine isn't running, then disconnecting without changing a thing and turning engine on once more, but I'm 99% sure it has the same outcome of breaking the AC pump settings. The only way to make it work again, is to store to ECU while engine is off before disconnecting. So: -tuner didn't do this setting correctly, or it just doesn't make a difference whether pullup resistor is on or off. -connecting to ECU will cause this AC function to stop working correctly -fixed by storing settings to ECU when engine isn't running, then disconnecting before starting engine -Engine will stall, or come VERY close to stalling when the pump is turned OFF - more than likely just requires idle tuning tweaked or something, since they could only tune it with the pump running in the first place. (running a MAP sensor FYI, if that makes a diff) Anyone shed any light on this? I would try updating the ECU firmware, but I wouldn't expect it would be necessary as it would have either been the latest version when the ECU was fitted, or the tuner would have already done this....plus I just don't want to risk breaking something by doing this.

How many days have you had now to work it out yourself? Seriously, it's not hard. I have no idea how to do it, and I can guarantee that if I had my head under the steering column of my car for as long as it took me to write this reply, I would have worked it out.

Watch out mate, Pat will try hold ya hand too!

As Stao said, my mechanic's derped. HOPEFULLY I can conclude this was the case when I have a chance to remove the dump pipe and have a looky, then get it sorted.

Occasionally Friday nights we meet up near the lake, but moreso when it's a tad warmer.

Have been using Motul 8100 5w40 for a while now on stock engine, but have just had new turbo etc done and tuned for 284rwkw @ 15psi, and was advised by tuner that 5w40 was too thin, and I should start using 10w40 or 10w30. while I have no gripes with doing this as his advice is what I should be following, I was wondering what the reasoning for this would be. He mentioned something along the lines of the thinner oil breaking down under high boost, and something to do with cold start...Can anyone shed any light? thanks