Trozzle

Mechanic suspects power steering pump. They only heard a faint sound once on first cold start, but nothing afterward. Ah well, at least they're 99% sure there's nothing bung in the engine, which is fine in my books. Thanks for the input nonetheless guys

Well to answer the topic's question, no. Spend some money and reap the rewards. EBC should stop the boost spiking, if that's causing R+R, and/or get a REAL ECU. One that doesn't have R+R, and has to be tuned. It won't be cheap, but will surely be worth it.

Yeah air in liquid (be it water, power steering pump....even oil, though that's VERY unlikely) seems like the culprit... And yes Pat, I want to have to rebuild lol, coz upgrades are coming very soon, so I could same some labour cost in the long run by having it built now rather than when it eats shit. I already suspect a bearing on the exhaust cam is on the way out...downside of waiting 'til she pops, is that I could make a big mess.

penis length....I mean boost. Do what TiTAN said. Perhaps have the dash gauges as water temp, oil temp, oil pressure, then have boost on the A-Pillar?

the pump is turning yes, but the rack itself doesn't receive anything until you turn the wheel....well at least that MY take on it lol. Either way, at least you've given me something else to suggest when I drop it off...some small part of me wants it to be a big bad monster so I can get the thing built lol...oh I don't know

will have to have that looked at too....I've noticed my fluid was low a while back, though it hasn't gone down since I topped it up.... Dropping it off at workshop tonight so they can leave it outside over night and start it when the thing is frozen in the morning, hopefully it makes the same noises and they can work it out. OH just realised though...it's making a sound before I even touch the wheel, but the main sound is after I've turned it (not directly after, but the steering has moved before I ever notice it)...still reckon the rack is possible?

does it piss off once the engine has warmed up for a couple of minutes?

What these guys said. If you can handle buying a new engine and moving all your bolt-ons from the old to the new when you go pop, then by all means see how far it will go

Covered to death, and as said before, how long is a piece of string? I'm sure you could push 400kw+ for a few seconds, maybe even a lifetime. Of course the rods, pistons, crank and gasket will only go so far, but the tune will have a lot to do with it. You could destroy it on a horrible 200kw tune, or it could last forever on a 300kw tune. Also of course, lower boost is better. No idea on numbers though

ah ok, makes sense now since it's going into the shop on wednesday for brake machining/general service, I'll get them to do that too. Aftermarket gauge has never red more than 90 deg, and will sit on 80 - 85 during normal operation, so overheat definitely hasn't occurred Thanks for the input guys, much appreciated! Will update with results later in the week for future reference

yes, it definitely sounds like air through a liquid system, though what do you mean by "cooling" system? As in, water/radiator etc etc, or aircon? And if you're correct, this wouldn't be detrimental at all would it? Not causing damage that is

ok guys, this sound has become apparent since the last oil change (now on roughly 6000kms thanks to Canberra - Melbourne return, doing again this wednesday), or a stack of suspension/steering work I had done at the same time, and only ever happens on a cold engine though it lives outside so is much more likely to do it when I start it in the morning after freezing overnight. The only thing I can relate the sound to would be the sound you make when sucking the last bit out of a milkshake or thickshake through a straw - you know, the sound you're embarrassed to make sometimes coz it's loud. It appears to be coming from under the front of the car, hence engine. It is able to be "recreated" as I reverse down my driveway, as it's relatively steep and places the car on quite an incline. Has only done it on one occasion before I've even moved the car, which was this morning, hence why I'm writing this. As I'm reversing down the driveway, when I touch the brakes or bring the car to a stop, this is when the sound occurs. It's as though the car stopping causes whatever is making this sound to move backward through momentum, and do it's thing. I don't understand the insides of the sump, and how oil pickups etc work, but from an ignorant point of view I have suggested something like the oil moving to the back of the sump as I brake on my driveway....but this has been dismissed (not to mention why does it only happen on a cold engine?) Whatever's causing this can also be felt through the firewall via my foot on the clutch, so something is definitely vibrating or something. Mods are only 3.5" turbo back, FMIC, bleed valve @11psi...suspension is bushes bushes bushes, ISC coilovers, rack mounts, front+rear upper camber arms, rear traction, and HICAS lock...though I don't think any of this will be the culprit... /end wall of text, thanks guys.

ok I voted, now wtf? lol

what is this exactly...

haha, yeah you're right Pat sad how a car's material value in no way reflects what it's worth on the market, else I'd be accurate in my offer Definitely the absolute sexiest GT-T I've ever seen. Ever.

Shell, click the god damn link in his sig FFS. I would happily swap my car+$5k for that 34.

The car in question shell, will be lol'd at.

I was under the impression that ALL imports and ALL modified cars must go to dickson. If it was just interstate, but neither of the previous, it'd be fine to go wherever... I got mine passed at Lanyon, but it's stock enough that the dude didn't really care. Only knocked me back on tint (5%) which was fair enough, and then the shopfront only wanted ACT roadworthy+QLD rego papers.

yeah the vic one won't mean anything other than it was found to be roadworthy in victoria....it still requires an ACT roadworthy certificate, which is *supposed* to be issues by the RTA place here given that it's an import and modified...any buyers in the ACT will be hard pressed to get your car registered here, unless they know someone who can do a roadworthy certificate....even then it won't be legal as such, but may still get it registered. I almost considered your car on that note if I didn't already have a 33

PAT, gimme a spin in the new feel GTT!!!!1!1!!!1111

well that wasn't what you originally said. You made out as though you couldn't control your car in the wet without TC. Your passion in your argument at least suggests this wasn't the point you were trying to make, making this a misunderstanding. If this assumption is incorrect, you still haven't re-read your original point.

Wax, learn to throttle control. You made it sound as though you drive with an on/off switch for throttle. If you can drive an 80hp FWD shitbox in the wet, yet can't seem to handle a 400hp RWD in the wet, you need to reassess your right to hold a driver's license. Agree? If you agree, you worded what you said wrong. Disagree and you might as well respond with "+2"

is pat using a shitty boost controller of some kind? :\

ITT: waxracing makes an arse of himself.

I have a full workshop manual for the '86 VL at home, reckon this would have what you're after in it?