Trozzle

I'm hesitant to suggest gasket as it'd be a bit unlikely to fail across every cylinder wouldn't it? I'd have thought once it blew the weak spot out, that's it and only the cylinders that needed that bit of the gasket to seal would show low compression....also if it failed on this scale, you'd be guaranteed water in the oil system and visa versa. I should point out everything I suggest is just speculation. I've never dealt with engine failure or anything close to this scale of fail, so I'm just relying on my firm grasp of internal combustion engines and what effects what, particularly with RBs If I wasn't such an academic failure through school (thanks to giving almost literally NO f**ks for it), I'd be a pretty bloody decent mechanical engineer lol....just the way my brain is wired....unfortunately I'm just lazy and have next to no attention span for things that don't interest me

Timing belt breaks > nothing governing camshaft rotation > pistons mash valves. If your timing belt broke you'd probably have heard horrible sounds as the pistons slammed into valves, rather than it just conking out like you indicated. I'm still thinking something electrical...if the timing belt snapped and it mashed valves, given one cylinder is significantly worse than the others I'd like to think there should be at least 1 cylinder that reads almost normal (valves closed and intact)

Would have to be a fuel hose > no fuel, otherwise the thing would at least cough and splutter if not run half-arsed I'd think EDIT: been burnt in the past have we Dunc?

My bet's something to do with the ignitor. Failing that, AFM. Failing THAT....fark lol, could be anything from there since Dan hasn't fiddled with anything else prior to it dying Maybe it's all Dan. He just doesn't know how to turn the key properly. CLOCKWISE BRO!!! f**king noob man, noob

hahaha yeah sorry I worded it wrongly - of course it wasn't raw, you already made that quite clear with all the records

The name Andrey Balyaev rings a bell, so perhaps it was him equipped? It was posted on these forums, I believe in the Gym and Supp thread....surely someone other than myself must know what I'm talking about (and therefore be able to determine whether it was equipped or raw, as well as the correct figures) lol

As Anthony said, you'll barely notice a difference until you've got a few track days under your belt and you're pushing limits

It's still possible that you've had a run of bad luck and damaged the wiring for one of the plugs when you unplugged it or when plugging back in. When you've got another person to help you, have them crank the engine over (*try* to start it) while you fiddle with the plugs/wires - see if anything happens while you're wriggling them around.

Upgrade rotors to DBA slotted items when your stockies are dead. Only real advantage will be heat dissipation with the slotted rotors, so unless you're driving like a fkn lunatic on the streets or tracking the car you won't really get anything out of them other than them looking cool

Everyday is a bad day 'round these parts

lol no I mean I lost my shit laughing at that pic above Trust me, considering I drink a litre of tren every morning, my roid rage ends civilisations.

Silver R33 GTS-T Anytime Fyshwick carpark yesterday arvo.

Amazing. Though I recall a little while back someone putting up a vid of some "Russian" (Eastern European, they're all Russians hahahaha) dude doing a going something like 390/300/400 @98kg....what's the go there? I know the numbers were more than Dan's, so obviously there's a reason it doesn't count (might've been equipped, though I don't think so) Not to question you here or anything, just wanna know

He has sneaky, sneaky hands. Nowhere is safe.

Just lost my shit at work. Thank f**k it's early enough there's barely anyone of importance here yet.

Not sure what you've tried in the last 4 f**ken pages lol, ain't no way I cbf reading this first up on a Monday - but as above, have you checked the CAS at all? It's just as unlikely as any other part you haven't touched recently coincidentally failing, but it fits the symptoms (battery fine, car started fine, ran for a bit then died, now won't start). I assume you've gone over fuses by now?

POWERS OF DEDUCTION, PEOPLE. Look it up. This is the absolute most basic skill requirement when performing any kind of troubleshooting. Without it you might as well just sell the car and buy another one that's running, it'll potentially save you a farkload of time.

But it's not the battery

all fluids every 500km? Might wanna reconsider that

I'll take that bet lol (I assume that's what you mean ) Battery has enough charge to crank the engine, surely it'd at least try to fire up too

Just needs to make it into the combustion chamber along with air - it'll act as fuel and the engine should fire up, on the assumption that your fuel system is the reason it isn't firing.

this is a good point, though I wouldn't bother until you've fiddled with the connector plugs as I'm pretty sure you'll have to pull off the crossover pipe or something for this to be effective (could be wrong).

Soon....soon you may understand exactly why ploughing the kangaroo in my old 33 was the most relieving feeling I've ever felt with regards to that car Shame it happening just after I ironed out the latest issues it had though lol

I'd be checking yoself before you wreck yoself, Paul.

As per our sexting just now, you finally answered my question Check AFM and ignitor plugs first - Do what Pat suggested and get some electrical contact cleaner to spray on the plugs and clean them out. Hopefully it's just moisture. If that doesn't fix anything, check fuses. If the fuses look fine, then consider that by some unlucky chance either your AFM or ignitor shat itself at some stage through this adventure lol