darkhalf

posted several forums. it was sold last year... forgot to update this thread

in adelaide i've seen two sets last week... $140 each or $100 exchange. i got mine exchange $100 for both. try all the wreckers on the R31 skyline club pages and see what you find. most from front cuts but yeah some ppl as mentioned do rip u off

i've got a r32 ecu i've been ripping to pieces recently. the maps and everything are easy to change (dr drift has got retuned maps for these). changing the K constant on these for larger injectors is fairly basic and only requires a chip removal and rewrite does Morpowa run an EPROM emmulator to tune the stock ECU on dyno? im looking to build one for my R31 ecu which run the same map locations etc as the R32s

collegue at work used to live at modbury and was telling me of all the thefts she could see from her flat and then watch the cops rock up later when she called. its not a good place to park your car (esp near the hospital) if you have central locking installed (or plan to cos its only $40 for a kit) then you wont need the door lock to be replaced. also using remote boot release, you can disconnect your boot latches from the key/inside release to protect things like amps

you forgot C for rb30 cos aussie models are CR31

stock tail shaft?? dodgy CV joints usually cause vibrations. some ppl get a one piece for their r31s the trans speed sender (also used by the ECCS for things like determine if to clean the AFM wire after a drive) might be able to be connected somehow where the normal cable in the other trans would to use the stock electronics speedo. but id imagine you'd have to gear it right to get it accurate

your ISPs DNS is caching the old IP address for this domain. strange btw this is a better image of the r31 electrics cos i scanned it at a higher DPI http://imflame.ricetek.net/~darkhalf/artic..._ti_diagram.pdf i've got a low current drain also from various things. what i did was disable my alarm system and then hook a 10A multimeter between the + terminal and the battery plug which sounds like what you did. make sure all your accessories etc are off and nothing running (otherwise more than 10A will blow up the multimeter) and then i've been pulling out fuses/fusible links etc and measuring the power consumption of each item removed the diagram will help - i can tell you the continous power goes to the trip computer, eccs and HECS (hybrid electric control system for stuff light auto dimming on the door light). so start from the fusible links next to your battery and pull all those, then try the fuse box next good luck! matt

missed that site see if you can make any sense out of ....

ROM editor can do it if you know how... just checked the file # NISSAN BNR32 RB26DETT MAP ADDRESS (E) SPEED1_LIMIT,&H7FA5,2,1,1,2,Speed Limit 1 if there is a 28 pin EPROM chip in there (ECU) then i can do it for $80 (cos i have to unsolder and reprogram it). also can increase the rev limiter matt

okay the best info you are going to get is from the jap sites. heres some pics blantantly ripped from them at my site http://imflame.ricetek.net/~darkhalf/wagon/index.html there is a wagon with the twin round tail lights in there also! otherwise its time to get out the web translator (babelfish.altavista.com) W SQUARE - HP for R31 Skyline Wagon http://www.geocities.co.jp/MotorCity/4772/index.html some othe sites http://r31-skyline.hp.infoseek.co.jp/ and www.r31house.co.jp matt

well.... the site doesn't exist anymore since i've lost the hosting. have to find a new tome for it

yeah the r31 house kit parts (autospoiler, rear spoiler, mirrors, front bonnet) you can get thru powerplay imports. the latest r31 house catalogue (pdf) is on my site

R31 bodykits are difficult to find/expensive cos Nissan only ever sold the GTS models with the kit on them and only a few moulds have been made since (Fred Bruno ex SVD pres / Nisspares both in Vic) Visit my site and you'll see all the bodykit bits and pieces from the Japanese R31s and the Australian GTS 1/2 R31s and where to get them

so you're not the only one Name: Matt Car: R31 S3 GXE (chipped SVD GTS engine, GTS import kit) Locat: Northern Job: Software Stuff I enjoy: beer..... mmmm beer oh, cruise and ripping things to bits

i think the alarm systems with more than one cut out point have separate output wires from the control unit. this way if one relay gets traced and shorted the other would still need to be located. usually though i think you would have the relays near the control unit and if they find that you're stuffed anyway

in regards to two-three point immobilisation - it is just a matter of intercepting vital circuits with a relay to cut their function (ie starter, fuel pump, ignition circuit etc) you can use a single immobiliser cut out point to run more than one relay (given the current of the relays combined doesn't exceed the maximu for the alarm output) hence it is possible to use a two output point immobiliser to cut out say four points

i was just saying about the software... yeah it depends if you have the other equpiment (programmer, eraser, emmulator) and tuning tools (detonation headphones, cylinder temp probe, wide band a/f meter)

R32 RB20 ECCS can be remapped with romeditor (free software) it its a stock ECU with custom chip. there is an ignition timing map which specifies degrees of advance at varous RPM vs load. you just reduce the timing in where its pinging

is this a factory ECU with custom chip? if so it can be done with ROMEditor

they have some type of automotive glue/laquer on the screws. i tried different screw driver tips until one fitted 'nicely' to remove the covers from these types of ECUs. you have to push into the screw while putting pressure to turn it (to prevent rounding) and hopefully it should 'click' to losen it

think it uses AFM at all times - because it requires 'LOAD' from the VQ map which is measured by AFM to calculate at least the ignition timing and perhaps air/fuel ratio maps (this uses a variation from 14.7 stioch ratio when in different parts of the rev/load range) matt

yeah there are several ways... find the wire for the O2 sensor going to your ECU and put a + probe from multimeter on it. put the - probe to the chasis and drive your car. it should vary between 0-1volts. if it stays at 0v its dead or you can use an Air Fuel meter (various kit forms from Jaycar) and if its 0 then its dead on the RB30 ECCS if you have the car warm temp, running @ ~2500rpm (no throttle switch in idle), diag mode OFF then the GREEN light should flash/stay on at least if both lights off continously then O2 dead. it may be similar for the RB20 ECCS since most of the software looks similar

thats what i get for not reading the post properly......

try www.oxygensensors.com they have 300zx in their list

i've read somewhere you can 'clean' with high temperature like a butane torch or something.... dunno if that would work. o2 sensors have a limited life span and if they rattle they are dead (small chemical plate inside has broken) if a car is hunting at idling then i dont think its the o2 sensor, but the Auxillary Air Control valve maybe instead (you can disconnect this to see if there is any difference)