darkhalf

i dont think the ECU goes into close loop (ie uses o2 sensor) during idling from the doccos i've read for the RB30 ECCS, only above 2500rpm and only at crusing speed. the lights on the ECCS start to flash lean/rich/okay/dead when in closeloop. the RB20 eccs should work similarly from what i've seen

yeah three wires coming out.... im saying its an eprom switcher. you can switch the upper address pin on a larger eprom and select between two programs. make sure your ignition is off (and prob disconnect the battery terminal - i dont know if the program runs on this ECU when ignition is off but better safe than sorry) before flicking it! you'd have to take the cover off and give us another pic where the wires come from. prob switches to another program to swap all the mappings over. just depends what those mappings are set to (higher octane?) matt

Hey guys Theres going to be another R31 cruise this Friday 11 April @ 7pm. Meet at Botanical Gardens carpark on Hackney Road. Departure will be from 7:30pm sharp. Maps will be provided on the night All R31 owners are welcome matt

yeah.... he was aparently sent the pages by someone else. my main concern was directly copying the pages, selling the info and no credit given to any of the sources

i dare say you could rechip it... but don't the japanese tune for 100 octane?

Just to let you guys know, if you've seen the following info.... a lot of the information is available for free (because he ripped it from my site) including several ROMs. most of my information was translated from a Jap site (credited) or derived from the boostcrusing info (credited) and is available freely http://www.autoserve.8m.com/ROMEG.html http://www.autoserve.8m.com/FuelMaps.html http://www.autoserve.8m.com/TimingMaps.html this guy is also trying to sell a CD with ROMS and MAP addresses for .... R31 skyline, VL Turbo and 300ZX... wonder where he got these from??? this kind of stuff makes me not wanna put up the new things i have found out (disassembly, checksum calculation, injector scaling etc). i dare say the silvia stuff came from the silvia guys / boostcrusing.com pages also.... as you can imagine... this guy has got a nice email from me matt

the o2 sensor for mine (which should be similar) has two wires heater and one wire sensor can't remember the colours but the sensor wire produces upto 1volt when the car is running. if you get a multimeter you can check the wires. the heater wires are +12v and ground so you will find those easier enough find the colour of the wire from the plug to the O2 sensor and trace it to your ECU

rb30 dont match the bolt pattern on the rb25. you could get some extractors and then cut/weld some of the ends. this was done on an rb30 with an rb25 head conversion using existing extractors

Has anyone successfully got their AFM to work again when its starting to die? There are apparently places that 'recondition' the AFM but does anyone know what they do? replace the wire? i've also put voltage on pins 1-4 (heater wire) but this isn't glowing red on both several threads on cleaning the AFM wire using either brake cleaner or electrical contact cleaner. Have tried contact clenaer on both on my AFMs with no difference - the wire inside is shiny clean and i've pulled the cover off one and the microelectrics are something you dont wanna stuff with either way this is AFM number 3 and im ready to ditch the uni filter because i think its causing probs

radio interference from the mobile (these put out a lot of RF signals) may have interfere with the alarm

i've seen them from about $3k - $9k they have a NICS redtop RB20 engine. some are RB20E (injected N/A only) others RB20DE (twin cam N/A) and you want an RB20DET at least (twin cam turbo) this engine lacks torque compared to the RB30 engine but makes up in power once the turbo kicks in but not as good as say a silver top r32 ECCS RB20DET theres not that many going around australia. youl could try importing since most would be > 15 years old. ask on the r31skylineclub forums and you'll get more info. more photos of passage gt on my website (below) matt

im in the middle of building an Air/Fuel meter from one of those jaycar kits. it says the chip in the kit is matched to a particular bosch o2 sensor (making it not perfectly accurate with other o2 sensors). this is because of the skew of the lamda values outside stichiometric ratio (14.7) can be different between various sensors. anyway to use this accurately on my r31 im going to have to reprogram the PIC chip mappings hence i think you need an o2 sensor which reports similar lamda values to the original one (for the factory ecu) mine is rattling (ie stuffed - the sensor inside is broken in half) and i'm planning to go the NGK ones for my RB30 which was $130 repco

my mate was going to have the new monaros for his wedding.... but the insurance excess was going to be something like $5k so hope you dont hit nuthin (or someone does a hit/run to you) plus there was a fairly big deposit - and the drivers had to be 25 or older.... for a r34 i'd hate to guess

cheers thanks

alright - i'll try about 4/5 coats of clear then and then cutting compound. i've tried cutting polish before and it gets in the orange peel of the paint. thats when i eventually resort to wet 1200 grit to get it smooth, but that makes things worse

zahos - thanks for the info. i'll try and get the spraying right - im using a gun and getting the right pressure (30 psi) and mixtures is difficult im using wax & grease remover and making sure the surface is flat (1200 grit) main thing is also what to do once the clear coat is applied (polishing etc) matt

ugh... acetone was the only thing i told that might remove it. unfortunately that ddn't remove the blob dropped in the carpet remember some time ago some product 'super glue remover' ??

the bodykit parts were fibreglass and primed .... and spraying clear over the top of previous coats which were smooth (wet/dry 1200 grit before applying clearcoat - except for the metallic because this will ruin the flakes). i have tried to put it on fairly thick so i dont get overspray but still a bit orange peel and i dont know how to get it mirror finish looking if it is flat

Red top are NICS in the early R31 import versions Red Top were ECCS in later versions im still to get the software/maps for NICS

hey just wondering if anyone on here has experience spraying clearcoat acrylic laquer? i've got rear lights sprayed in metallic grey and sideskirts/front bumper in normal grey (both acrylic) and have sprayed about three coats of clear over the top problem is that it a bit orange peel like and need to get that 'mirror finish' and have tried 1200 grit wet/dry which made it look speckled and cutting compound didn't work either any advice what i should be doing? thanks matt

someones got too much time on their hands :bahaha:

looks interesting and prob time consuming

i would imagine that when using an external device between the ecu and the engine that when the standard ECU notices from (a) the o2 sensor that the mixture is too lean/rich and (B) the knock sensor detects pinging that more adjustments would be made to the fuel and timing respectively to get it back within bounds. if the unichip (really an interceptor right?) causes the ECU to detect these things woudln't it pull back futher?

sweet - the article says about $22 for the opti blue H3s which sounds about right

heres some links that may help. rb30 second hand blocks can come cheap http://trinity.frontierisp.net.au/~rowan/twincam.htm http://www.autospeed.com/A_0268/page1.html http://www.autospeed.com/A_0012/page1.html?src=twr