bayslideblue

I have searched through this thread a few times and have been back and fourth to repco with ill fitting break pads (probably could have done a bit better with research and saved some time), but just for future refernce..... Bendix doesn't list s2 C34 RS RWD turbo 98-2001 on there website, however the correct pads are; db1696 front db1399 rear

MUST BE SOLD BY THE END OF APRIL, MOVING OVERSEAS.

RECENT PRICE DROP - $12900 ONO

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/nissan-stagea-2000-11859427?base=1216&vertical=Car&cr=11&eapi=2&__N=1246%201247%201252%201282%204294963846%204294960181%201216&silo=Stock&Range=Price:Min,Max~0.5&sort=default http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/250995777016?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 0429809305 - call or txt if interested Dave

A better one-

My linkSomething like this? But without the subs?; Here's a link to the build thread - http://www.skylinesa..._1#entry4545242 I've since made a few adjustments, but they relatively the same. Mine is an RS so no ATTESSA but it's only one bolt to remove to access the spot where one would be. You don't really sacrifice any space this way either, and I can still carry a spare

+1 just jap

The top part shown in this picture Well I did clean this out using these guides -http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/344264-cleaning-the-aac-valve-on-rb25det-neo/page__mode__threaded However I didn't unscrew the cap on the outer side of the spring to clean further inside. As I wasn't sure how to remove it or if I should, as it didn't say how to in either of the AAC valve cleaning threads. And it doesn't have a screw,nut or key to remove it, it's just got three holes?? Anyway, it hasn't done the same thing for a few days now and the idle rpm seems to be fairly consistent. So maybe it's sorting itself out. Cheers, Dave-

Thanks, just downloaded FAST. I'll check it out today. CHeers, Dave-

This happened to me last night. Fuel gauge was reading just before the bottom line and the light was not on. as I drove up a really steep hill with a sharp right hand bend, I started to loos power then conked out halfway up the hill! And then wouldn't start again. Didn't know what was going on, then I remembered reading this thread. So I rolled back down the hill a bit, then it started and I drove off. Filled up the tank and it didn't do it again. So I assume it must have been this problem. (I hope)

Cool, thanks. It looks like they're the same for s14,s15,r33,r34 . So must be the same for c34 you'd think. Just doesn't say so on any of the websites. Cheers-

Hmm, ok. Well I already cleaned the AAC valve, isn't the IAC valve part of that assembley on NEO's? Cheers-

Well I changed the the plugs to platinum one's at 70,000. But today I pulled them all out and checked them and re gapped them. I also replaced all vaccum lines with silcon hose, as some of them were old and looking a little cracked. But stll, it did it to me. In fact it stalled! Only did it once. But when its warm, once started and first put in to reverse to get out of a park; Idle rpm drops, has a bit of a cough then stalls...... Apart from that it seems to be running quite well. The only other slight symptom is when I'm cruising at around 3000 rpm in 2nd gear and I have my foot just slightly on the throttle it dosen't accellerate entirly smoothly. It seems to jump around a little almost like it was stuttering, but it's hardly noticable. I seem to be heading towards coil packs, however it seems as though there is no way of telling if a coil pack is failing without expensive equipment like this-

Can anyone confirm that a c34 series 2 outer tie rod end is the same as r34? Cheers, Dave-

Bump. Ok I just cleaned the AAC valve, and reset the idle with the TPS disconnected and using consult with ECUtalk to get exact RPM. After setting the idle RPM I then rigged up the timing light and checked the ignition timing which was reading 12deg @ 650. So I advanced it slightly by adjusting the CAS until it read exactly 15deg @650 with the TPS disconnected, according to the marks on the pully wheel. Once I reconnected the TPS it read the same thing, 15 @ 650. And It also read the same on ECUtalk timing read out, so all seems good. Took it for a test and it ran well, except for the fact that this one thing that was happening before the 100k km service, is still hapenning; Once it's warm, when I first click it in to gear and the engine is first under load the idle drops right down like it's about to stall. It has a bit of a cough for a second and then pics up and I take off, and it doesn't happen again? Any ideas? Injectors? (but doesn't seem to happen any other time through the rev range) Coil packs failing? What do you think?

Cleaned AAC valve, reset idle back to 650, adjusted timing to 15deg at 650. Took it for a test run. Next to do; rear upper camber arms and bushes

Would like to see some pics of one of the LED set up's once installed, If anyone can be bothered posting them up. Just to see how much difference it makes, cos the stock one is pretty useless. I thought that I had blown the bulb for ages before I checked (lazy). And it was working, I just couldn't really tell much difference from the drivers seat.

Hmm, well I still love the car. But it is a little concerning not knowing if it's done 100k km or 200k! Yeah no log book from Japan, I am the second owner in Aus and it had ~40K on it when it was sold to the first owner by the importer in 2007. It's a 2000 model so it's plausable that it's geniune km's, but I have my doubts. At least now though I have replaced some of the important bits, so fingers crossed it will get me another 100k without too much trouble. Just gotta set the idle and timing now, need to get a timing light. Thanks for the replies :-)

Hi there! I just finished doing the 100 000 km service on my stag using the kudos motorsport's kit plus a few extra bits (O2 sensor, ancillary belts etc). the moment when I got the new belt on :-) I helped a mate change the timing belt on his peugot once, but this is the first time I've changed one on my own. And all is good, just about anyway ;-) I mostly used this guide - http://www.scribd.co...lt-on-a-RB25DET So just a couple of things- First off; When I took the timing belt cover off I noticed that the timing belt that was on there was not a Nissan one?? Then when I went to change the old water pump I noticed that it was stuck on with gasket glue, and didn't have what I'd assumed would be a factory paper gasket. Now My odometer reads 98 000, but obviously the timing belt and potentially waterpump have already been replaced so....... has it already had the 100k service and has my clock been wound back? Or my motor been replaced? How do I check this? Fast? Secondly I was wondering about timing adjustment. I recently purchased a consult cable and have been using ECU talk, which is awesome! Before I did the service the timing was 10deg @~700rpm, according to the timing read out on ECU talk. After the service it now reads 0deg @~700rpm. So I must have put the cam angle sensor slightly back of it's previous mark. I know that it is supposed to be 15deg @~650rpm, so should I adjust the idle first then do the timing? Also would it be fine just to adjust the timing using ECU talk instead of a timing light? And finally will it make any difference for the timing/idle if it's got some mods and nistune chip and dyno tune? Or should it still be 15deg @~650rpm. What do you think? Some christmas cheer

Ha! Well in all honesty, I would drive that volvo.

May as well add something while I'm here-

The more I see this conversion the more I want to do it!

can't make either now :-( will be in Melbs for the whole of November

Nice one. Count me in (if I'm in town, may possibly be in Melbourne). No suggestions on route though.

Yeah right, thanks for the heads up. I think I'll get it right with oil one of these days, I feel like been changing my mind constantly. But I guess there's no one size that fits all so to speak.