alkaline

I was about to say pressure and rpm, but pressure equates to heat in the end anyway...

lol @ "write" >> right? But yeah bad timing puts more stress on the engine. LPG raises fuel burn temp, to run efficiently needs high 12:1CR as its raited at 108RON (not MON) or maybe forced induction . Although this would raise temp even more.

Joel then you should state this in your RB30DET diy guide. So for instance, mr blogs wants 300 to 450 hp then this (list) needs to be done and with 450 to 600 then this, etc... Like in stages, say about 3 stages such as the ones listed on the rotorworx website. Just get someone experianced like Sydneykid to check up on it. =) Also, what are peoples opinions on using water injection, such as the Aquamist? I have heared of one VL running high advance and gaining reasonable power increases though the high rpm range. Needs to be injected after the turbo, not before the compressor, as not to sandblast the hell out of it. Also, can be mixed with methanol (half burnt methane) to give more impressive results? Any supliers in Aus citys such as Perth?

I guess so, just don't boost too much as it would surely explode, maybe even damage the engine. Fragments can fly back into the engine causing big problems. These turbo's can explode even on 12psi if pushed vigorously enough. So stick below 8psi for the time being, remember that this engine is 3L, which efectively raises flow considerably (20%).

The RB25 turbo is too small (not enough flow) for the RB30 bottem end, same with the T03 that comes off the RB30ET. A hybrid T04/T03 or a GT25 / 30 is a better combination, with quicker spool times, although more expensive.

>> "Insert broken record comment here." Obviously no one replied to me about finding the right supercharger (vortex) to give 20psi @ 1000cfm

Dished with valve cut outs?

Just wanted to clear something up. A friend did some chamber measuring and came up with a figure of 8.06:1 using the twincam head on a RB30E block, not 8.3:1... The piston measured to be 1cc dished, turbo pistons 11cc dished. For the compression ratio i want, 9:1, i need a 10cc domed piston! I guess we shouldn't take whats in a mag as gospel! But then there can be alot of variation that throw the figure off too... Cheers, Phill.

I thought the RB30 had 3 knock sensors?

That silver triming looks soo discusting! I also hate those 20" wheels with tiny rusted little drum brakes in them. Sleepers all the way!!!

I think they must do that to many engines from what I have seen?

So would a GTR twin turbo flange from an R32 fit onto a R33 or R34 RB25 head? Is the RB26 T4 flange? I just dont want to be on boost all the time, rb25 turbo seems too small for an RB30. On that note what would be the best cams to get for the RB25 head as well in combination with the 9:1 compression ratio and GTR twin turbo setup. That is of course if the GTR turbo mounts on to the head with out too much problems?

How about using the twin turbo setup from the GTR rather then a TO3?

Joel when are you updating your DIY RB30DET guide? I would like to know about using the original turbo off a RB25 (r33 / r34) and have about 5 to 10 psi. I would still want a compression ratio of about 9:1... or would it be better to use a different turbo and just sell the other? I dont mind spool up at 2500 - 3000 rpm, I just don't want spooling earlier or up at the 4000k mark... I'm not after high boost either. How about twin turbo, where one spools up and at a certain amount of rmp the other one kicks in...

Yeah I know, I was being sarcastic because if you advance the timing too much the engine will ping / backfire. Thus force the cylinder in the opposite direction... (thats what I mean by doing 1/4 mile in reverse)