ZED X

Dell Inspiron 7000 2 in 1 Laptop/Tablet Hey Guys, I have a Dell Inspiron 7000 that i am no longer using. I have just been given a work laptop so it is just sitting collecting dust. I is around 6 months old but it has seen barely any use at all (less then 24 hours of use). Really it is in as new condition. I paid $2200 for it when it was brand new. Specifications: Model: 7359 6th Generation Intel i7-6500U 8GB Memory 256GB Solid State Drive 13.3-inch 1080P Truelife LED-Backlit Touch Display Windows 10 64bit Price is: $1000 Firm. Happy to post Australia wide. Depending on the location i can include shipping in this price.

Looks like ill be a new foxtel subscriber then... I stuffed around downloading Sky rips after the events last year and it is just down right painfull.. It just shits me, that i cant "only" pay for motorsports channels. I dont watch any other form of sport... why the hell do i need to pay $60 per month for shit im not going to watch -.- Thats a huge rip off, considering that you are essentially paying $43.5 per race weekend... Thats $60 p/m + $150 Install / 20 races per year. What a joke. It's almost worth signing up for a NOW TV whole week pass ~2 times a month and pulling it down through a UK supplied VPN connection. If only that was legal. -.-

Yea i get that. However being on the back of the grid at the end of the season wont help their 2016 budget. It's not like they can join the championship this year take the 30mill then piss off to the pub. They would still be looking at another 50M+ to compete for the remainder of the season

What exactly is the point of Manor's return anyway? It's not like they will have anyone to compete against now that Caterham have flopped?

Tough! Lets hope this year's is a significant improvement!

Tech insight and video - Williams FW37 launchhttp://www.autosport.com/news/report.php/id/117419 Eh i dont mind it. Not as bad as last years nose

Besides the fact that they completely missed the boat when it came to marketing the change to the V6 power unit anyway. Instead the guy running the show hands our bad PR due to low engine noise then the proceeding 3 months are focused on that single topic. No mention of the benifits that drove the change in the first place. It really didnt make any sense to me. I mean if your aim is to go green and as you pointed out the benifits would be minimal in the real world. Whats the true purpose? If your aim is to change the image of the sport, then dont you need to publicise the positives? Sure the V6 power unit is a tad quiet but it sounds mental (imo) specially with some onboard footage and when you get the turbos whining during harvesting Lets not forget there were some really great races last year, brought about from the change. Even though homo dominated most of the year, it was still a great year to be watching F1. Other then those who watch F1 religiously no one ive spoken with even had a clue what was happening.

Wut... Ecclestone calls for F1 power unit to be dropped http://www.crash.net/f1/news/212651/1/ecclestone_calls_for_f1_power_unit_to_be_dropped.html

Mine Really need to get some better photos.. these are a couple of years old now.

Hey Guys, I’ve got a extremely mint set of Enkei RP01’s that are currently holding up my 32R. I’ve had these resprayed in arctic white around 6 months ago but they’ve had literally no use as the cars been in the shed for the past year. These rims are an extremely light forged rim they may aswell be brand new they are in perfect condition. I've lost the original stickers (the ones inside that show the rim size) as they were removed when they were resprayed. I've replaced the front facing Enkei stickers with originals. I’m tossing up with the idea of replacing these for something else. If anyone is keen on swaps show us what you've got! Ideally looking for 18x10+18 18x9+12 / TE37/XD9/CE28 or similar. I'm only interested in Forged no cast "rubbish" please The specs are as follows: 17x9+22 with 10mm bolt on spacers (Included) Brand new KU31’s 235x45x17. Less than ~200km on these! Included. I don't have a price in mind.. but lets say $1800 Firm Including rubber. I'dd prefer swaps for these as it means less f#@ing about. Heres how they sit currently: R32 GTR Standard Turbos + Standard Dumps - $250 R32 GTR Standard Front Pipes (Includes original heat shields) not in the best condition. - $50 6 x 680cc Delphi Rochester Injectors – 14mm top feed – New Top/Bottom orings included. 1x Nolathane Upper Inner Rear Bushes – PN: 46218 - $35 1x Nolathane Lower Control Arm Bushes – PN: 45465 - $100 1x Nolathane Radius Rod Bush – PN: 48164 - $125 All prices listed above do not include postage. No ridiculous offers please guys don’t waste my time. Larger items I would prefer to sell locally. Post up here if you’d like any pics of the above. The Bushes are still in their original unopened packaging. All items located in Adelaide.

Fugly as all hell. Bring back 80s/90s styling!

Mine Took these years ago. Should have taken the P plates down! This was taken a couple of years ago but is essentially how it sits now

I'm running a gates one on my R. It was pretty noisy initially however i found that i had over tensioned it (very slightly). Was fine when cold but when at operating temp it would make a distinctive whine. Loosened it off a tad and its been fine since.

303 Aerospace? Its what I've been using. Can't fault it.

Thank you sir! I had heard of this technique but hadn't realized this was preferred. I had no idea this would give false readings it would certainly explain some things. Interestingly though i'dd borrowed a spare CAS from Abe last year to rule out my cas being a faulty. His could be set much closer to the middle to obtain ~20deg BTDC Appears my exhaust cam has been advanced ~5deg when it was previously tuned by turbo tune. I'll set this back to 0deg and then set base timing using the method in the FSM and see that improves things. Thanks for the tip!

Took a look the other night, had to pull the fuel filter and pressure gauge out of the way. However it looks fine as far as i can tell. I blocked off the BOV end and pushed ~40psi through it and i couldnt hear any leaks Thanks for the suggestion though, man its a pain in the arse to get your hands under the intake side! Need smaller hands.. I changed the belt/pump/tensioner etc around 15,000km ago myself. The belt did make a whining noise initially but i suspect it was over tensioned. I backed it off abit around 5000km ago and haven't heard that since. I'm thinking i may also relocate my EBC Actuator as its in the factory position next to the fuse box. Then the vac lines run beneath the intake manifold and around the back of the engine across to the turbos. I did see some boost creep initially when it was tuned but worked around this by setting the warning to -2psi and it was ok. Thinking i might put this on the turbo side to reduce some of the lines running across. Anyway appears this was coils after all. Strange as after coating all 6 i wasn't seeing any leaks. However the issue was still present under load. So the top of the coils must have had some small micro-fractures. i just went out and bought a set of YJ to replace my OEM ones. Seems to have cleared up for now. Managed to get my hands on a timing light, seems timing was correctly set. Though really strange as the CAS is in the 100% anti clockwise position for 15deg tdc? That cant be right? Well it seems drivable for now, so at least i can get it to a workshop. Thanks for all of your help guys really appreciate it!

Thats pretty much exactly what its doing. I was mucking around replacing the fuel filter around the same time as this occurred. Pretty sure the BOV Vac line joins beneath the intake manifold yea? Possible it may have been pulled on. I'll check that out tonight Yea already tried O2's, i disconnected them completely with no change. To be honest i cant see how this could be the cause. The O2 sensor reading is irrelevant under acceleration anyway. Still waiting for the silicone to dry and ill see if the "Repaired" coil packs fix the issue. Thanks for the input

I'll admit i thought i had fixed this after re soldering my AFM's but alas continues. I did think this might be the cause, however i've pulled all of the piping off on the turbo side, nothing found. I've checked my coilpacks over the weekend. I'm seeing some leakage on 5/6 of them at extreme distances from ground. So cleaned the boots and bottom of the coilpacks with an electrical circuit board cleaner, hammered them with a wirebrush and covered them with an RTV Silicone (just the base of the coilpack around the boot) Tested 3/6 of them (the others are still drying) much better so far, arking down to the ground plate as opposed to leaking onto the coilpack bracket. Test: http://youtu.be/fwxKhTM_dKE Looks much better now, whether or not this was the cause. However i can confirm that at a gap of around 15mm (from the tip of the plug) the coilpacks would ark from directly between the coil boot/bottom of the coilpack across to the mounting bracket. Now im seeing no leakage at around 25mm distance. I guess we shall see.. Also pulled the FMIC off completely and pressure tested it to around 30 PSI it was holding perfectly. I didnt have any leakage at all and i left it charged for 30 mins.. Tested the rest of the piping turbo side and there is a small drop in pressure around 1psi per second. So the same as the last time i checked.

Thanks for the feedback guys. I've checked the coilpacks again, they are not arking from beneath the coilpack boot. So they seem ok... However i may go further and check the loom as its not a factory one. One of those justjap copies, ive got the old loom somewhere but the clips are all "crispy" ie falling apart. It was replace along time ago way before this issue presented itself. I honestly cant believe its the BOV's to be honest, i've blocked them off completely in the past and no change overall.. I've checked for codes using my ECUTalk, nothing has come up yet. However i'll check the ECU manually as i've been told that not all errors will appear via consult. Good call Ben thanks Yep pretty frustrating, I've been tempted to take it to a proper mechanic in the past to just a professional opinion. However its completely undrivable and to be honest i wouldn't risk driving it in its current state. Dont really want a rod through the block. Haha.. its actually not a very long drive way, i really only got upto maybe 5000RPM in first then hard on the brakes. Had no other way to do this as unregistered... The gauge has a max reading pin which can be reset. I've wanted to clean the injectors properly, just waiting on a new set of orings to arrive. As it doesn't look like they have ever been removed. Assuming many of them will perish on removal. Hmm interesting, i did hit a parking cone a couple of years ago. Pushed the intercooler in abit. However i sealed it up with resin and it held around.. 40PSI without bursting. So i'dd say its all good! Yea actually now that you mention it.. that's actually what it feels like It's as if im hitting rev limit but of course im not.. Mines much worse then what you've described though. It's so bad that i had to roll down my street in neutral once because any application of the throttle would cause this extreme misfire.

Hey Guys, I'm just fishing for some ideas at this point. Starting to run out of ideas myself on what could cause this issue. Abit of a background. I've owned the car for around 4 years now, up until around 8 months ago it had been pushing around ~250awkw at ~14psi on a set of standard twins, tuned by turbo tune ~3 years ago. Around the same time i started noticing that on hard acceleration the blow off valves would actuate whilst under load and on full throttle. Seemed to come and and go i only noticed this a couple of times and thought nothing of it. When this happens there is a huge jerking motion seeming like a miss fire however only really seems to happen when on boost. If i attempt to drive around off boost, everything is fine and normal. As soon as it begins building around ~5 PSI upward this issue occurs. If i attempt to hold the throttle around half way to maintain ~5>6psi the blow off valves sound as if they are shuffling and i fail to maintain forward momentum. Similar to what you might hear when under load (ie up hill) partial throttle release. This is now occurring all the time. I'm also running a wide band to monitor AFR's whilst this is occurring however im seeing around 14-15 on low throttle which seems to me to be a little bit lean considering this is using a stock map. Generally the japs tended to run these fairly rich? no? I should note that up until a couple of months ago, this would only occur whilst under load. However its now developed on idle, when free reving up to around ~3000rpm. To me that seems to rule out an ignition fault, as AFR's would be lower if there was unburnt fuel being expelled? However ive also tried the following: - re flashed my ECU to a stock/base map with the help of Pete from Nistune - Replaced plugs and gapped to 0.8 - BCPR6ES also tested with a set of BCPR7ES. - Replaced Coil pack harness with a brand new item. The original had some damaged clips. - Tested for air leaks, there was a MASSIVE one on the BOV return pipe. I've since repaired this and no more leaks occurring. - Replaced CAS with one that is known to work. - Injected a large amount of injector cleaner into the top of the fuel filter just before the fuel rail. - Replaced AFM's & also re soldered. - Ran a Fuel pressure gauge just after the filter. I'm getting around ~40 whilst priming and ~35 whilst engine idle. I also drove up and down my driveway with the bonnet off and it sits around the same under load. - Pulled the fuel pump (standard) and checked for any crap in the fuel tank. Couldn't see anything there. - Pulled both BOV's apart and can confirm they are both working, both seals are fine and springs move freely. - Replace standard twins with a set of GT2860-7. I haven't tested another set of coil packs yet, kind of hesitant to throw more money at this until i know what the cause is. I haven't been able to find a spare set i could borrow to eliminate this either.. Ive got a fairly standard 32R with the following: Apexi Power Intake 3.5" Exhaust HKS Front Pipes Larger Front Mount Inter-cooler (specs unknown) HKS Adjustable Cam Gears Nistune GT2860-7 (Recently installed) I'll see if i can get a recording of this tonight but any suggestions would be welcome!

I'll admit i've been pretty slack lately, i havent attended any meetings. Mostly because the gtr has been shedbound for the past ~12 months and crusing in the Starlet isnt nearly as much fun. I say bring back SAUSA Dawn Cruise! These were the ones i enjoyed the most. Nothing quite like it on a frosty winters morning Hey Michael i didnt have any luck finding this group on facebook, send us all a link?

It's a bloody stupid rule to be honest. How is it the drivers fault? Personally i believe the team should recieve the penalty, be it a fine or constructors points. It's abit rediculus that the driver should be penalised when its something they have zero control over. God so sick of watching F1 on OneHD. Has anyone found a way to watch via Sky F1 directly? I've been considering Sky f1 Control via VPN/DNS via a UK proxy but to be honest it's still rediculusly expensive. Also abit of a risk, if its even possible as its 12months at a minimum term. All i really want is unhindered FULL coverage i'm more then happy to pay $30>40 a month for it for gods sake.

Similar issue on my 32R. I "modified" an existing radiator cap so i could feed pressure from my compressor. It was simply a male air house coupling hot glued/tapped into the top of a spare radiator cap. Then set to around 9PSI which allowed me to sit beneath the vehicle whilst pressurized. Dont push any more then this through though. In my case it appears to be the seal inside of my water pump but this was only occurring at full temp and only very rarely. Otherwise take it to a professional and have it leak tested

Anywhere in SA i can grab one of these? Wouldnt mind one for the man cave

Do the 100k Service yourself That'll save you $1500 out of that 2k you've been quoted. I'm sure there are many on this board that would be more then happy to lend a hand. I'dd offer but i cant claim to be an expert. I used to get all of my work done by a local mechanic... before buying a GTR. That changed pretty quickly. You'll quickly become accustomed to GTR Tax Unless you have deep pockets!