Datman

I'm pretty sure the darkest legal is still 35% VLT for side and rear windows on passenger vehicles. I've found metallic content reflects more heat/UV, has more of a mirror effect and more privacy. Can also recommend Solar Tint, worth the spend for a quality ride, however my Datto gets the DIY treatment, tinting back windows sucks!

Hi, I have these pads left over after the sale of my series 1 R33 GTS25t. Bendix Ultimate front pads, Brand New still in the box, part no. DB1170 ULT. Paid $110 from Just Jap. $80 and they're yours ono. Pick up from Calwell ACT Contact Martin 0414 463116, SMS or call, thanks.

Hi, I have these pads left over after the sale of my series 1 R33 GTS25t. Bendix Ultimate front pads, Brand New still in the box, part no. DB1170 ULT. Paid $110 from Just Jap. $80 and they're yours ono. Pick up from Calwell ACT or if you want them posted I will get a price for postage. Contact Martin 0414 463116, SMS or call, thanks.

UPDATE: Blinkers SOLD; still have the brake pads - make an offer. Cheers

Ouch! Hopefully it's something simple, but going to be a bit of work to find out, especially as you've never used that box before. Ah well, it's a rainy long w/e, book in some shed time and get a mate to bring a slab over.

Sadly, the R33 has made way for an A33 and have a couple of new parts left over for R33 GTS25t series I: - Bendix Ultimate front pads DB1170. $100 ono - NISMO clear side indicators $90 ono Both never used and in original packaging. I'm in Calwell, phone 62983620 or txt me 0414 463116. Cheers Martin PS: Also have the factory sway bars, Free to anyone that wants them.

I remember changing my clutch fluid and it took a while to work out the correct bleed procedure. From memory there were 3 bleed points and they probably need to be done from the top down, can't remember the order. Made a simple job a bit of a pain. Good luck.

Back to $9000, now has 163,000km, new brake pads (Ultimates) and rego to August 2009.

Good idea Shell, I did the same, I didn't like the idea of a bolt missing on my water pump and considering it's not a 1 hour job glad I did it with the right part. I did pay $199 from Nissan but that's not too bad for piece of mind. Nissan Part No. is 21010-21U26 - for '93 R33 GTS25t I have a pair of genuine cam shaft seals if any wants them, mine didn't need replacing. Cheers

Exactly right shaunvlc; it is that, all you do is take the starter motor out, grease the shaft that the starter gear moves on and hey presto. Mind you the top bolt is a bit tricky, but don't let not being able to see it put you off a diy. Big thanks to Ed from AutoTech at Hume (ACT) for the suggestion - champion.

* Reduced to a bargain $8500 * Merry Christmas, can someone make mine?

* REDUCED to $8900 *

I haven't seen a rap for Howard Revell Steering in Fyshwick yet. Good honest shop, lots of experience (inc. track and rally) and last time I went got a free no obligation inspection and quote. The hub that 'may' have needed replacing was fine and alignments always spot on. They sponsor local motorsport and competitors and are located next to Reliance Rotary in Lyall St, parking can be a pain but you can't have everything PS: NOT to be confused with Revell Steering in Tuggeranong; completely different ball game.

Make: Nissan - 1993 Model: R33 Skyline GTS25t sedan Milage: 162,000 Transmission: 5 speed (factory) Colour: 2 tone Silver over Grey Location: Canberra Complied? Yes RWC supplied? Upon request Currently registered? Yes, to Feb 2009 Price: $9000 ono Contact: Martin 02-62983620 (ah), 0414 463116 (m), [email protected] Comments / Modifications: Regretful sale due to recent upgrade for expanding family Improvements: - Whiteline Handling Pack - DBA 4000 slotted front rotors - K&N panel filter - Pioneer CD stereo - Autometer boost gauge (small) - Apexi turbo timer/AF meter/volts - Alarm/Immobiliser, keyless entry - Solar Tint windows Full Maintenance including receipts available. Also R32 GTR wheels for extra $$$ Images:

I've eliminated the accessory belts as took the P/S, A/C and fan belts off the engine; started it and still got the same noise. I'll just have to pull the timing covers off and check the cam belt tension and make sure the tensioner and idler bearings are spinning freely. Could also be some sort of slippery substance on the outside of the belt causing some slippage. Thanks for the response.

When starting the car there's an erratic screech/chirping noise for up to 2 seconds and it's not always exactly the same noise. It does it more when it's cold than warm/hot but doesn't occur any other time. On the rare occasion it won't do it on a warm/hot start. Been happening for months and thought it was one of the drive belts. I re-tensioned the drive belts, no change. When I got around to checking them and replacing the fan belt it still did it. I took all three belts off and it still did it. Bugger! The only belt left is the timing belt and it's not slipping teeth because you'd know. Could it possibly be the tension on the timing belt has reduced and the outside of the timing belt is slipping on the tensioner or idler bearings? That's the only thing I can think of. Anyone got any other ideas? Timing belt, tensioner and idler were changed at 97K, now has 160K. Thanks Martin

Glad to hear you've identified the problem, upgrading coils is certainly worthwhile if you're planning on running higher boost but if you're running stock boost etc you can simply fix the stock coils. Pull them out and if you look hard you'll spot a few hairline cracks. Clean them up and araldyte (or other epoxy resin glue) all the seams/joins on all your coils and save yourself $500. Mine have been fine since I did this 2-3 years ago. Happy driving!

2mm clearance is OK, if you're bothered by it get some thin spacers for peace of mind. So 16's are off an R34 non-turbo, did Nissan finally put 5 holes in their non-turbo Skyline wheels? What width are the rims and offset? Cheers PS: Does anyone know off hand what width and offset R34 GTT 17" rims are? Thanks

If that's all they picked then well done. It is a pain having to spend $$$$ for the sake of 4mm but not clearing the 100mm block is money for jam for these guys. When they start picking BS items is when it really starts to p u off. Why would you need an engineers cert for a FMIC? As long as it's not hang out everywhere, shouldn't be a drama, it's just a larger repositioned OEM part. Pod filters(AFM) need to be secured and the pod should be boxed for noise reasons to avoid defect. Did you change your exhaust and did they actually test your dB at Dickson?

Hi Mitchell, How much are you asking for the seats? Can you describe the material colour and any patterns if applicable. And do you have the centre console lid with an unbroken release 'lever' (in the usual dark grey vinyl of course). Cheers Martin

I've used DS2500's in my Datto (Comm calipers/Magna rotors) and they are great. They will take some track time without fade, don't need much to warm up, last for ages and my rotor face hasn't grooved at all. Probably a little overkill for just straight street use, but worth the money. Widely used in the rally community too. As for dust, they're not as bad as Bendix Ultimates. I guess the main issue is not being able to wash your car, but of course you are allowed to 'spot wash' with a bucket. Saw you leaving work yesterday Chris, before that had been a while since I've seen the 32. Take it easy. Martin

Just bought some new shocks for my R33 GTSt and naturally at 150,000km the original shock dust boots (that sit externally over the shaft) are at all points of the compass. The shop that I use here in Canberra said my only option were these ones that come with some sort of spacer that sits below the new boot and they cost $60 each! Too exxy for my liking. Does anyone know of any other cost effective options? Cheers. Marty PS: Had to replace some broken clips that hold the plastic inner guard lining in and Nissan had near identical ones for an N16 I think he said, for only $1.30 each, cheering. These are the push in type similar to the two that hold the cold air duct in place. If anyone wants the part number, send a PM (receipts in the shed somewhere).

For a mid spec road tyre I was really impressed with the BFG G-Force Sport, I would actually buy them again but usually there's something newer and better on the market by then. Nice chunky shoulder blocks which are a must for avoiding premature worn edges (all depends on driving style of course). They were a step up from Kumho Ecsta which are a great value tyre that will grip well enough (to a point). The BFG is also wearing quite well and seems to be stiffer in the side wall. I'm not sure if they have a 2 ply wall construction - except for the exxy ones, not many tyres seem to. Anyone have any comments on the Federal 595? Cheers

Couple of years ago we got followed into our work car park because my mate had his elbow resting on the door! I think it's just a Datsun thing, another time got defected in the car park at work for not having the lower section of my back seat in. The tool didn't even notice my baldish rear tyres. They're so concerned about "safety" arent they.

Thanks Mick, that is good news, I just hadn't heard anyone mention them since the shop closed in Qbn. Perhaps I just need to get out more often; fatherhood will do that. I assume they're still doing repairs and all the necessary stuff that not many others did around here.