Daleo

I've been using an Informeter for years; it's fantastic as a gauge/display; but cannot be used to reset or diagnose fault codes.

I don't think you fully understand just how different a Nismo ECU is, compared to a stock one.

This. For double confirmation.

Brilliant result.

Good things take time.

This is exactly what a computer savvy mate of mine was telling me recently.

They could be genuine aftermarket RACING WHEELS! You may well be sitting on a goldmine. The only way to confirm the metallurgy, and thus the racing provenance; is to take a small sample of the parent metal, by cutting them. In half. PS; My lawyer would also like to know when he can expect to take delivery of your generous gift; He's generally in his Sydney offices on Mondays, Tuesdays and Thursdays; but not until after 2pm. PPS; My car says hi. But in a manly way.

I think you should cut them in half to confirm; Ben was definitely onto something.

Gonna see probably this week if we can resurrect the dell laptop; then Thunderbirds are go!

VQ35 is fine with all the usual options.

Hey Peter, Read your email exchange; thanks for taking the time. I guess it's like everything now; I'd like to say I'm surprised, but it's more like disappointment really. Their "Premium product; locally made" quality assertion seems plausible, and as an enthusiast customer, you'd certainly want get behind them. I took them at their word; perhaps I was being naive, but I did hope they would be honest, not just give us enthusiasts the standard sales guff.

To the two points I've highlighted in red; I did a factory tour last year with Members of SAU NSW for one of our most excellent Tech Arvo's organised by the Club Execs. 1; According to DBA; ALL 4000 Series and 5000 Series are cast in a proprietary grade of cast iron in a foundry based in Sydney. This is to guarantee the quality & consistency of their flagship product. 2; In the standard R33 GTS-t rotor size; there is no DBA 2 piece rotor available, so you are left with the 1 piece 4000 series T3 slotted rotor OP has quite reasonably decided to use for trackwork on what I'd assume is a modified STREET CAR, not a dedicated track car. 6 track days and 2000km of street use doesn't "seem" like a great deal of time, and the nature of the failure isn't something that you'd expect; and even DBA suggest that an amount of radial surface cracking in tracked rotors is perfectly normal, and to be expected (as you have also pointed out). I'd definitely be approaching DBA, and asking for their guidance, and possible ways to move forward; they are (in my experience) excellent to deal with, and are very understanding of enthusiasts who use their product as it was designed. Simply telling people that they have misused the product and that they should suck eggs is hardly helpful. Cheers, Dale.

I'd be willing to bet the Maxi-Rom could probably be scaled to cope with the change as well.

Speaking from my experience; a brand new Nissan one at $270 lasted almost 3 weeks. I'm not the only one to have the same experience. No warranty, and they laugh all the way to the bank. I bought a generic ebay WRX STi AFM, and it lasted about 3 years. Bought one of Scotty's Chinese ones; still going after a year. I'd buy 5 copies before I even considered buying another one from Nissan.

Still going...

Go and talk to these guys; http://awarddiffgearboxservices.com.au/ They know this sort of issue inside out.

By my measurements; they look to be about 50mm lower at the seat base?

Gumtree might not be the ideal solution for someone in Amsterdam.

I drilled the banjo's on mine at 80,000km, and the turbo failed around 110,000km; but my turbo was a noisy mofo from the day I bought it at around 60,000km. Failure seems almost inevitable, but some last a lot longer than others. My advice would be to improve the oil supply by opening up the banjo's, but budget for a highflow in the future. A plentiful supply of oil never hurt any turbo.

They are...

ECU is directly in front of the glovebox; bolted up on the firewall. There's a plastic cover which hides the A/C fan; pull that down and look up from the footwell. The left kickpanel contains the trans ECU.

Good point actually. The other thing I'd be doing; is once you have it in your hot little hands; I'd be doing ALL new fluids and filters throughout. I know the compliance places are supposed to do everything; and some may well do, but draw a line in the sand where YOU know everything is done right, and you'll just be able to enjoy a fantastic car.

The Nismo cluster could have been fitted at any time during the cars life; so the Odometer may not be a guaranteed starting point. It looks nicer than the stock cluster, and doesn't stop at 180km/h (doesn't change the speed limiter though). Mileage is stored on the cluster; hence the comments. If the car is in good condition; there's probably not much to worry about, but if you want to know for sure; there are places that can verify the mileage of the car prior to it leaving Japan, for less than $100. It's more about peace of mind than anything. Pulling off a rocker cover and checking the condition of the head and cam lobes will tell you pretty much everything you need to know about the engine.

Hi Andi; Welcome to the Wasteland mate! Good to see you're already modding the Stagea; we have a very active Stagea community here in Australia. Head over to the Stagea section of the forum, and have a look around. http://www.sau.com.au/forums/forum/82-stagea-discussion/ Keep us updated as you continue with the mods! Cheers, Dale.

White faced gauges means a Nismo cluster, so that's a good thing. As for interior spec; the RS is generally lower spec; but you can option any model, with virtually any combination of optional equipment. The wheel arches will absolutely eat up a 20" wheel; but the ride won't be too special once you do that. I reckon 19" is probably the optimum, but personal taste dictates. I'm sure some QLD'ers will chime in with recommended workshops, so I'll leave that. Welcome to Stagea life.