Daleo

That's a horrible offset, you'd be better off looking at +30 with that width. They're going to look horribly sunken on the car.

Hey Duncan, the same rule appears to apply in VIC also, but the thing people appear to be missing is this; If your towbar is rated to 1250kg, and the car is 1800kg; you can't just decide you want to exceed the load rating of the towbar and tow a load of 2700kg; simply because the car is heavy. I'm pretty sure the Police would take the same view. I know some of the C34 guys have 2000kg rated towbars (I'm sure yours is); but no towbar for an NM35 has been rated at more than 1250kg as far as I'm aware. The chassis construction plays a big part in the industry's wholesale refusal to rate towbars for these cars over that of a fully loaded box trailer.

Errr, considering the car only weighs 1800kgs MAX; you are actually comprehensively overloading the car. You cannot legally tow a trailer whose load exceeds the weight of the vehicle towing it. The maximum towing weight is set by the towbar manufacturer; in the absence of a recommendation from the vehicle manufacturer. None of the towbars that I've seen run a reaction arm under the boot floor, so any load is basically concentrated solely on the rear bumper mounts, and the front of rear of the wheelwell floor. This is why they won't rate towbars over 1400kg, as there simply isn't enough structure to take the loads exerted by a heavy trailer. I know you can rig any trailer which is balanced correctly, to only have a 100kg ball load; but all of this goes out the window once you start looking at what happens DYNAMICALLY, especially in an emergency braking situation, or a swerve. There is NO WAY the standard brakes are in any way capable of stopping the car properly with a 500-750kg car trailer with a 1200-1500kg car strapped to it. There's a million different answers to my argument, I realise; but just because you CAN do something doesn't mean you SHOULD do it. There are so many safe ways to tow race cars; this ISN'T one of them.

Many owners are using this exact kit; it's a very well finished set-up, and it fits very nicely. You will also need a replacement Air-con thermo fan; the OEM one fouls the cooler core.

Are you in Faulconbridge Adrian?

That is the kit for an AWD; the VQ25det doesn't come in 2WD, na dis the only turbocharged M35 model

Does it help with wind buffeting?

No, because exclusive.

I'm going to start a Faulconbridge Stagea group.

No idea, I don't think there was a fundamental redesign. I do know that PNM35 AR-X's have a steel rear lower control arm; where the NM35 AR-X uses an alloy part.

You would be better to speak with a consulting engineer, and get their guidance on material spec, thickness etc. Or work with the fabricator to come up with a design, then see the consulting engineer to get his input. If you can come up with a design that your engineer will approve; you will have no issues getting an engineers certificate to support the modification. HOWEVER! There is an old adage; and it is especially applicable with engineering work.

A fans shroud will improve temps in traffic out of sight. That would be my first port of call.

Get it welded by a pro; problem solved. There are 2 different subframes, because yours is an AR-X; you need a Hicas subframe.

If you haven't taken delivery of the car, they cannot refuse refund your deposit. As yet, they have not provided any kind of service to you. You may walk away from the sale at any point up until the final step. If you have signed no document authorising them to spend money on the vehicle prior to the purchase; all you have paid is a HOLDING DEPOSIT. Get in touch with fair trading; what they are trying to do is theft.

Me either...

Good job man, slow speed manoeuvres are the most difficult skill to perfect! As the fella at the end was saying; finding clutch friction point, with a little throttle, and controlling speed with the rear brake is the trick with low speed. Having the drivetrain loaded, and utilising the gyro effect of the motor spinning, stabilises the bike; rather than the unavoidable jerky on/off action when using the throttle around idle. It isn't so bad on a short geared, torquey single, but on a big bike with tall gearing (mine does 164km/h in first) you simply can't get away with riding at idle, with the clutch all the way out. Once you nail that, you'll never look back. Great to be able to practice, and pick up tips from experienced riders. Nice job with the BMW as well.

Put me on the list please Ciaron?

I used to a bit of fab work for the original owner of J&J Performance (now sold & renamed hyper coatings), and also got to seeand participate first hand in the prep and application of all sorts of perfomance coatings. *Please note; This is not an endorsement of Hyper Coatings* As has been said; all parts are scrupulously bead blasted, then baked at 250deg for 3 hours; this burns off any residual oil or contaminants. It also tends to show up and cracks that weren't visible in the cleaning process. They are then re-blasted, and coated. Most insulative and reflective coatings have a primer that is baked, and cooled; then the actual coating goes on, and is baked yet again. Polished finish (chromex) starts as a satin silver and is then put in a ceramic ball rumbler; which is like a huge plastic tub filled with 3mm dia ceramic balls and a water/detergent mix, and get vibrated violently for a few hours until the balls burnish the surface and makes it shiny. I was fortunate enough to be able to coat my turbine housing (inside and out) my dump pipe (inside and out) and my midpipe (outside only, due to the risk of damaging the catalytic converter). Mine is the satin black (not chrome) finish, as it was much stealthier IMO. It is super fragile until it has been fully heat cycled; so you hve to be hyper vigilant when fitting parts initially, as you can destroy the coating easily. Previously, all pipes (304ss) were lagged for around 2 years, and when the wrap was removed; the pipes were perfect. The coating reduces skin temperature just as effectively as the lagging did, but it looks 11ty billion time neater than lagging; which reminds me of a 1st World War soldiers leggings. It always ends up scruffy and fluffy after a while, and if you get oil near it; it smokes for weeks. I've noticed that the coated parts also shed heat much faster one the car is switched off. As for bits flaking off and destroying turbo's; thats just stupid. FFS; people coat piston crowns, valaves; combustion chambers, and exhaust ports! My mate did a lot of work coating Wankel rotors, and rotor housing as well. The coating is less than a thou thick; and just doesn't "flake" in the manner that you're imagining; it scratches off like a powder. If your chosen coating provider won't coat turbine housings; it's because they have no faith in their ability to prep and apply the coating. [/url

Check the original line to the washer bottle; they often have a little inline check valve to stop the little splash of water.

Pretty early days for the Adaptronic; and without a fair bit of manufacturer support & development, it may not go that far. Josh is certainly doing his bit to push it forward; I hope they help him & his tuner out.

Well mine isn't fruiting this year, so if you work it out; I'm open to suggestions! Would you say they're much of a step up in power/feel?

Rears as well Alex; or are you going to chase some down at a later date? Does this mean moar powerz?

PWR. Repco.

Do you read all the posts in your thread?

Gktech make a CNC'ed billet adaptor to suit the RB Viscous clutch. Around $20 from memory.