Daleo

With regard to the sensitivity of the dash temp gauge; mine (NM35 Stagea) sits in the same spot, 1 needle width below halfway. It is exactly the same from 73 degrees to 116 degrees. When bleeding the cooling system the temp spiked briefly to 123 degrees ( recorded as peak hold on Greddy Informeter) and the gauge only rose one graduation. I believe that the gauge is quite non-linear in the "allowable range" but once you go outside; it ramps aggressively to get your attention. I have no idea how this relates to the RB gauge.

Nicely done!

Exactly, they're directly underneath the console; do as Alex said, and put plugs on them so you can switch them back easily later on. Good mod; makes far more sense the other way.

Alex, Todd Selby was the guy I used, his business is Signature Swaybars. He's still in business, but he moved down the South Coast. The issue will be price IMO; he was around $300 per bar, and I'd imagine that will have increased in the meantime. For the same money you could do the SuperPro bars. Maybe Scotty will chime in; I know he does a fair bit of trade with them nowadays; perhaps a group buy or bulk order could be placed? I know they only manufacture to order; they don't keep stock on the shelf.

Get the largest one you can physically fit in your chosen location; Repco sell PWR which are a proven product.

SuperPro is basically your only option in Australia now, Whiteline no longer manufacture bars for the NM35; and are not interested in reassessing that decision.

The Gktech fans are not a fantastic upgrade for RB or VQ engines as Mattgeeteetee and I both found. The VQ25det fan is visually almost identical to an RB25det fan, so the shroud clearance and depth are essentially the same. I was also using a brand new Nissan fan clutch. The gktech fan is identical in dia to the stocker For starters; LUDICROUSLY loud! The fan could maintain control over the cooling system whilst moving (mid 80's) (even slowly) but as soon as the car was stationary, the fan would slowly lose control of temperature over about 5 min, until it got to around 95 degrees; then it would skyrocket over 110 degrees in less than 30 secs. This was using a temp reading from the ECU temp sensor on a perfectly bled cooling system with a Nismo thermostat and brand new 42mm thick dual pass Mishimoto radiator. All in mid 20's ambient temperature; so nothing silly at all. Change NOTHING but the fan and clutch; cruising temps dropped to 78 deg, and never rose above 86 degrees regardless of how long I sat stationary in traffic. As soon as I start moving; temps drop quickly back to the low 80's. It isn't silent, but no clutch fan is. Matt's experience was extremely similar to mine. They obviously work on SR's, but they are 20mm larger dia than the stock fan; tightening the clearance to the shroud may improve flow, but I don't rate them at all.

As far as I can remember, you aren't supposed to power up the ballast with the globe disconnected. In any case, sounds like you might need a new ballast.

In the last few weeks my Stagea has been detailed within an inch of it's life by a good mate, and as is the fashion in recent times killed a rear wheel bearing an destroyed the stub axle. Managed to accumulate all the necessary parts juuuust in time to get it all together for the Christmas break. Other than that, she's just been belting along happily about the place filled with kids, bikes, presents, drunk mates, and my bloody mother...

The middle of my roof came in at 64 microns. ​ Might be getting a roof wrap. The rest was low 90's.

Well done Leon; good to hear you've got these available. To any potential buyers; you would be an IDIOT not to buy one of these kits, it is possibly the best mod you'll ever do to your car. Seamless integration, and super reliable. Grab one while you can.

The issue with this (in NSW at least) is that a hole cut under the battery tray will generally not pass for rego; it needs to be engineered. This usually involves plating the area around the hole; which most people either can't, or won't do. There are "No cut" options; and that is certainly what I would recommend.

It has been done by a fella called Adam Lehmann, in SA. Not sure of his forum name off the top of my head.

Just bolts on.

The only caveat Theo gave, was if factory fitted; which does happen in very rare cases. That was a great info session, he was brilliant.

Hey Kris, You don't need spacers on the front links. When fitting a BNR11XZ or BNR11XXZ (rear Whiteline bar) on a factory auto cradle; you need spacers to accommodate for the extra 50mm of subframe width. Bolt those new links up, & enjoy; your work is done.

Lucky man Hugh!

Awesome stuff, looking forward to seeing what kind of result you get from the EFI engine. My mate accumulated all the parts for his build from all over Japan, I'm sure I could get some of the names of suppliers he use if you like? Enjoy the ride.

22 from memory?

I have an NM35 Stagea Which also didn't come with the steering wheel controls. When I fitted an aftermarket cruise that I bought through #Commsman; he supplied it with a pair of wheel controls to suit my OEM wheel. They fitted up no problems, and the clockspring, which carries the cabling for airbag & horn, also carries the wiring for the audio & cruise control switches. The only issue you are likely to have, is at the other end of the steering column where the wires come out. The plug from the main harness does not have the wiring to connect up the controls, but you can remedy this by using the pins from a disassembled PC harness plug (which Commsman kindly supplied to me) to make up a harness, and connect to your compatible stereo. Push the pins into the harness plug in the correct positions, and you have a factory looking harness and plugs. The controls only use 2 wires, each essentially providing a bunch of varying resistances to the controller; which usually has to be "taught" by memorising the resistance values for each specific function.

Yeah, I've watched my torque split gauge throw drive to the front whilst cornering, and encountering a dip; no loss of traction felt, but it is impressive in it's pre-emptive nature. A wet road would likely have seen a loss of traction in that combination of conditions.

And dispose of the evidence. Gnome saying'?

I think Hill's motorsport did them, but I could be wrong.

Many twins.

He had them fitted by a 3rd party, I'm betting there is an adaptor plate or bracket of some sort.