Daleo

No, I don't think the rears are a direct fit. All the 2 pot Sumitomo calipers are interchangeable and essentially identical. Same goes for rear rotors.

Rudi has a set on his car Nathan, so it can be done. I bet they do too Scotty, but they won't be anywhere near the price of a set of Nissan calipers. I've never bothered, as I find the bias fine with the OEM rears, pads & rotors are easily available, and I don't reckon there's much of an improvement to be had. It would balance it out visually, but that's about it.

Make a steel adapter bracket. I believe the internal handbrake drum is the same diameter, and the disc offset will work. Aim for 12mm of material thickness at any cross section and your bracket will have plenty of strength. Have fun.

Spotted a couple of Stagea's around the place today...

Lol, it was a total exec lockout on the raffle today! Such cool prizes.

Huge thanks for a fantastic and informative afternoon; I learned far more than I expected. Incredibly well presented subject matter, and all questions were answered with an amount of detail that proved outstanding knowledge, and a clear passion for the product. Thanks for the goodie bags, and also the opportunity to buy products at such discounted prices. Thanks also for the generosity of your raffle, and for giving me an awesome prize.

Don't blow the welds on that intake Eric!

Awesome! Looking forward to this!

More Dale's with Stagea's; I like this.

Same here; on my phone and on PC, some parts of the site are recent, but most is posts that show as "yesterday" but are in fact days old, and there are no new post visible.

The SuperPro are a really nice duro (hardness) and the internal knurling holds grease very nicely. The new style Whiteline bushes are also a n excellent duro for NVH and isolation.They are also black, so they don't stand out as modified. The bearing surfaces are also impregnated with PTFE fibres; which requires no ongoing maintenance, and requires no greasing. At all. Ever.

Failure of the lower inner arm bushes is quite common, and yes; any Z33 or V35 bushing kit will be suitable. Ball joints I'm not 100% on; some say yes, some say no.

Yep, as Josh said; I'd be looking for a split intercooler pipe. Sounds like when the engine comes on boost; you're losing all your air through a hole somewhere.

Yeah, I hated the thermo's; aftermarket style ones just can't hack the pace. I'm sure SPAL swept blade fans would do it; but they are much deeper than we can fit in our engine bay, due to the size of the motors. Factory AU/BF falcon fan setups are supposed to go well (as do the V35/PNM35 Electric fans) but the blade design & motor size is the critical factor. HUGE current draw with Falcon fan too. The radiator I was using, would not allow the fitment of a modified BF fan setup; it was just too deep to fit. The anectdotal evidence I've seen suggests that a clutch fan can flow around 3000-3200cfm of air @ 2000rpm (the locking of the viscous clutch breaks away above this point and even as revs rise; the fan spins no faster) whereas the BEST aftermarket thermo fans struggle to flow upwards of 900cfm (regardless of their claimed output). So you are a long way shy of the necessary flow, even with 2 fans and a well designed shroud. The OEM clutch fan & shroud is very effective (if a bit noisy) and very simple.

That's a win Ben, good to hear. I only run mine about 3 or 4 turns in from full soft on the rear, and maybe 6 turns in from full soft on the front.

Jack the rear of the car up, you should be able to access the adjuster at the top of the shock. I can fit my hand through the spokes of my wheel and get at them.

Hey Adam, I didn't mean to come across like a smartarse; I was just being a bit facetious. The internet doesn't translate my sarcastic sense of humour very well at the best of times, so I'll back off. I was butchering a Mark Twain quote to suit myself. “There is no such thing as a new idea. It is impossible. We simply take a lot of old ideas and put them into a sort of mental kaleidoscope. We give them a turn and they make new and curious combinations. We keep on turning and making new combinations indefinitely; but they are the same old pieces of colored glass that have been in use through all the ages.” It's a good idea to keep experimenting; and you sound like you're on to something, well done mate. As a couple have said; the back edge of the bonnet/plenum area is traditionally a high pressure area, so it IS actually surprising to see an improvement in cooling, when the expected result is somewhat different. To lower engine temps, I would recommend using a larger capacity radiator (2 or 3 core), and a Nismo low temp thermostat. These changes took my car from an average low temp of 92deg to an average in the low 80's. Scotty's cooling mod also allows temperatures to normalise much faster after a temp spike due to high load. Cooling these cars in hot weather is a tricky job, but all the little 2%ers do add up. Things like good ducting, and sealing gaps is incredibly effective if you're looking for cheap fixes too. Cheers, Dale.

Your sex is lovely, rude man.

He did indeed. There are no new ideas, just new people to try them. I'd much rather something like Theo's awesome vented bonnet; that thing is sex.

Wow, Julian Edgar has come a long way from the days modifying ADM GTR g-sensors with washing machine parts, and subsequently smashing them backwards into Armco railings... Not.

I was coming home on my bike last night just as the rain hit at Ryde; WOW! I was doing ok, as my tyres cut through it even at higher speed; but people in cars were doing so amazingly stupid stuff... As you say Terry, we were lucky to miss the brunt of it at home; so that was good.

I know, only a complete douchelord would have them on a black NM35.

I wish I had R34 GTR wheels...

I normally hold rpm at about 2000rpm for 10 second bursts, to speed coolant flow through the system, that pushes any trapped air to the high point. Done a couple of times and it will push most of the air out. Once cool, you can top up at the bleed point using a syringe and some plastic tube. You may need to do it a couple of times. Scotty's coolant mod just makes flushing and bleeding the system so much easier. Also allows the cooling system temperatures stabilise much moremore quickly, & efficiently. Highly recommended.

Prior to the Cooling mod; I used to use a long tapered funnel that adapts to a PET bottle. It's a plant watering spike that you use in the garden; bought from Bunnings for about $4. This was narrow enough to fit in the bleed point, and gave a nice bit of extra head height to allow for coolant expansion and exhausting of air, whilst not allowing more air back into the system..