Daleo

Looking good Theo; the yellow suits it so well. I'd much rather Wholesale than Pedders, but if you want some proper advice; either talk to the fella Alex & Mat used at Road2Race, or I can put you in touch with my guy, they do quite a few track and race cars. He's also a fair bit closer to you. Obviously, you know enough to inspect the critical stuff yourself, so just make a list mate, always happy to help you out. ;-)

Dem torque feels.

Otomoto have a huge selection, prices are sensible. As a bonus, they are black; so your car doesn't end up being cop bait.

Bloody viscous clutch fans!

I have been chasing for months now; and they have basically told me that there are no plans to re-introduce them. I presented a case to support their requirement of a minimum order, that I felt I could guarantee, but no. I even told them that Superpro/Fulcrum are doing a bar set now; but they don't appear interested. I have lost my direct contact in R&D, and my supplier doesn't get the kind of detail regarding supply that he used to receive either. I'm sorry guys; I tried. I really tried. You could go to Fulcrum, but I have no way to get good prices on their product, and they keep no stock; EVERYTHING is made to order, with a minimum 6-8 week lead time.

I thought the same actually Scotty! Reminds me of a Ferrari F355 timing belt change; Remove interior for access. Go Italy.

It didn't even damage the radiator; That's a win in my book.

Mine didn't actually fall off; but all it's blades did. Fortunately, they all showed up sitting in my highflow cat. Silly buggers thought they were going to be able to escape... I've got half an hour free today; might pull off my turbo for something to do. It's easy when you have the right tools.

Buy it back, and repair; an uneconomic repair write off isn't a statutory write off. Stupid insurance companies...

He's a mechanic Scotty; he doesn't need to do research. I can't for the life of me understand why you'd voluntarily take the turbo out of one of these more than once, if you didn't have to. But I'm not a mechanic either...

Get a turbo back exhaust and a higher flowing intake. Drown that f**ker out.

Viscous couplings do fail, and as you'd know they either freewheel and do nothing; or lock solid & sound like a 747 trying to get off the ground. Get it up to temp and test it; not that hard to do. Amayama sell OEM for around $200 and are far better than the shithouse aftermarket ones.

I've run twin Davies Craig 12" thermo's in a custom made shroud, with a divider between the fans so air couldn't be pulled through from one fan to the other if their output wasn't perfectly balanced. This was on a 52mm thick, 3 core alloy rad with at least twice the core area of the stock rad. I run a Nismo thermostat. I ran a proper fan controller to make sure the fans reacted quickly to temp variation. I ran heavy wiring and twin 30amp relays to ensure maximum current available to both fans. Fans were set to switch on at 88 degrees It was shit. On the freeway, temps would be stable until you loaded the engine, then it would spike. It would go from 80 degrees to over 90 in less than a minute and take at least 5 min of low load driving to start dropping. In traffic; it would spike from 80ish to 90 as soon as the car was stationary and rise to 95-97 deg when you accelerated away. It would routinely run in the high 90's, and once the fans came on; they would never turn back off. All measurements taken at 24-30 degrees. In hotter weather the cooling system would eventually lose control of engine temperature to the point where the only option was to run the heater at Max fan set on 32 degrees. Dropping the switch on temperature just meant the fans ran for longer; temp control didn't change at all. When I refitted my stock fan and shoud, with no other changes; it runs between 74 and 80 ALL THE TIME. The stock viscous fan can supply over 3200cfm of airflow at full chat; a 12" thermo is flat out at around 900cfm (regardless of what the manufacturer might "guarantee") even with 2, you are short by more than 1000cfm of airflow. You can't fit a 14 or 16" on the core due to height. SPAL fans with bigger motors will not fit. Cut & shut AU Falcon fans might fit on a stock rad, but they wouldn't on my thick core They just can't cope. If you want to try; I have my full set up that you can have for the price of the fans.

So you're the one who bought Roger's car! You've got one hell of a piece of machinery there mate. A terrible shame about his finger.

Perhaps if you were a bit more experienced with these engines; you might know what's going on. So many experts with these now...

Obviously, the swirl pot must be mounted above the head height of the rest of the cooling system to work properly, but the theory is; the coolant draws through the system using convection. The leg connected to the bottom rad hose draws coolant in and down as it is colder, and this allows a constant inflow from the hot side of the cooling system. Any bubbles throughout the system will obviously migrate to the highest point over time, and this can then be purged completely and will the draw coolant with no air from the overflow tank; thus eliminating any air pockets within the system. Convection is a surprisingly effective way to move hot liquids; early cooling systems that didn't have a water pump used convection to provide fluid flow through the system. As time went by more effective means of cooling were required as more power (thermal energy) was generated and space constraints for radiators and water volume were reduced. You see many high powered engines (especially RB's) using swirl pots as they generate enough localised heat to flash boil pockets of water within the head; this then causes cavitation if it isn't released. An inline swirl chamber is far more effective as it separates the bubbles directly out of the coolant flow from the engine, as opposed to just the bleed points. Obviously this system would still require the use of a header or swirl tank above the level of the head height of the cooling system. Hope this clears things up.

I think it's more a personality issue than a racial issue. Arseholes are arseholes no matter what colour their skin, or where they come from unfortunately. At least you are an unusually observant person, and noticed the cap was missing before they shovelled you out the door; and it was too late.

Disgusting conduct from them Terry! I'm sad to say that these sort of stories don't even surprise me anymore. What it does is make me want to keep on using the guys I do trust, even if it's a little inconvenient at times. A cent in the pocket of these shonks is money wasted. Seems like there's a high concentration of quality businesses around Blacktown; I use & recommend Jim Hunter Suspension in Blacktown. No nonsense, not interested in the hard sell, just good advice. Did you get your 4th cap Terry?

I've got a heat gun at home, if you can wait until tonight Terry? Maybe a very thin guitar string or piano wire from the music shop if the fishing line isn't robust enough?

Roy, shoot me a PM with the part numbers you are after, & I'll get you a price.

You'd be better getting a strut Re-gas guy to measure up and obtain something suitable.The issue will be the door end, as the bracket & ball is permanently affixed. Is there a reason yours can't be regassed?

Nah, I spend enough time driving along the M4; no desire to stop & take a closer look.

Saw #@Old Fella driving down Raymond Rd in Springwood this arvo; the family & I were having an icecream for my young blokes 6th birthday. Mine was parked out front of RMS. Hey mate!

If you have the time, and have a reasonable driving record; it might be worth fighting. The acting in "good faith" argument might work, but equally,you might get a magistrate who will tell you to take responsibility and secure the L/P plate in a frame; they cost less than $20. Far cheaper than any fine. Note; this is the exact response I recently heard from a Magistrate dealing with exactly this type of matter, whilst in court recently. I ride too, and can see it from your side, but also; imagine if all you had to have was a torn off L plate to get off a fine; how many people would pull that crap? I have seen a youtube video of a guy who escaped a fine when pulled over by HWP, as his mate had timestamped footage on a helmet camera; which clearly showed him with an L plate affixed to the bike only minutes earlier. The officer in question also ordered him to go straight to the nearest RMS and get a replacement. Times like that must be one in a million.

Quoted for because I wanna know...