Daleo

Looks to be working fine mate. Nice looking site !

Hey mate, thanks for that. Can you put me on the list for a replacement when you have some? I'll forward some cash to you in the next couple of days.

So, I've had an interesting week or so. When my car was started from stone cold; it had no issues. I could drive to work, leave the car all day, then drive home again. If I stopped fill up, or go & do some shopping, then restarted the car; initially, it would randomly stall at idle, and throw a CEL code; P0100, which is the AFM. It did it once, then not again for several days. Reset code; no issues. If restarted, the car would drive normally. Progressively over a week or so, it would stall more regularly on a hot restart. Then t would throw the light immediately at hot start, and when you accelerated, it would get to 2200rpm, and start stuttering as if the AFM was disconnected. After a few minutes of driving it would behave as normal. I replaced a very dirty air filter, but no real change. Cleaned AFM; no change. It occurred to me, that on my Informeter; if the intake temp was above approx 35-40 deg; the problem would manifest, and it started doing the same thing if driven in traffic, and the Intake temp rose to the set level. Eventually, the CEL would not reset, but as long as the Intake temp was around ambient or below 35 deg, the car would drive perfectly. Replaced AFM with the spare I had from Scotty (for just such an occasion) reset CEL; issue hasn't reoccurred. Very strange. Can anyone with an Informeter tell me what their AFM reads when the engine is NOT started? Just with the key in the ON position? Mine is roughly 1.02v even before being started. Settles around 1.47-1.50 at idle. Cheers guys, hope this helps someone. I've never seen an AFM fail in such an unusual and random fashion.

Frankly, I'd avoid MV altogether, it's not the first time they've been off the mark with NM/PNM 35 advice. I'm not doubting their ability, just with our car specifically.

You won't see a potentially damaged one; they snap the threaded shaft about halfway down, leaving 10mm of thread in the car body. It can also scar the paint on the inside of the C pillar and roof edge if you're really unlucky. I was incredibly lucky not to damage the paint when mine broke. Support the hatch, pop the struts off, and remove the ball ends. Check the threaded shank for cracking; and remove the rubber washers (if fitted). If they're undamaged, you've only wasted 20 mins. It took me twice that to get the broken piece out of mine.

Did you remove & check the ball ends on the body when the struts were out? About 2 weeks after I had mine regassed I snapped one off. Very annoying.

Love Bluetooth in the car. CCS did the work? Thinking about using them for a new alarm; they seem very thorough.

Let me find out for you;there is a cheaper way.

OEM shocks can be had for significantly less than $400 per corner! Think amayama.com or similar. I can possibly get information for you as someone just purchased a swag of OEM suspension components (including all 4 shocks) and the total was just over $700 delivered. What is involved in the Certification for Coilovers? Is this for some kind of external/independant testing? I'm curious, as the main stumbling block to engineering BC coilovers in NSW (Australia) is the absence of material data & testing info from the parent manufacturer. If I had this kind of information; I could provide it to an engineer, and he'd be happy to sign them off.

Lol; I spotted that! Mercy dash to Bunnings?

It's a difficult situation, as most existing owners have already done the mod. Being that your "late to the party" relatively speaking; you'll have to keep pushing other owners to get it over the line.

We meet again #@Old Fella! On GWH again, in my brown Stagea; again... I washed it this afternoon; so it doesn't look so ugleh. Catch up soon mate!

Lol, looks great mate; must make getting up for work a bit easier knowing you'll get to play with toys like that.

We can no longer be friends Dave. So sad.

Lol, nicely played Dunc. Honesty is the best policy. Ask Edward Lee. Perhaps sale thread should be linked to this thread to demonstrate the hard work required to achieve a successful repair?

Good deal Theo!

Are you here all week? Should I try the veal?

Always handy to have a lathe at your disposal mate, one of the (many) perks of the trade for sure. Even nicer to have some spare time to knock out a couple of simple jobs... Hadn't thought of the voltage spike; I wouldn't have expected the effect to be so pronounced TBH. It didn't change my expected AFM readings at all.

After doing an intake pipe for #@Brick, and a false start with a silicone upper reducer bend; I made him a blanking plug for the resonance chamber on the back of the OEM reducer bend. Figured if I was doing one, I might as well do two... I honestly don't know if it's the placebo effect at work but the car seemed more aggressive on boost. Later, Josh rang me to let me know he'd fitted his, and that he was now apparently hitting boost cut; which it hadn't done prior to fitting. There has been no change in AFM clipping on mine; it still skirts juuuust below the cut point. Perhaps the reduced turbulence on the back of the bend is improving flow? Not sure. The thing I did notice after I'd removed the resonance chamber, was that it had 1/4 teaspoon of incredibly fine dust inside; almost like talc. Would be worth removing & emptying if you still run the chamber on yours.

Is the tractor ever going for a run at WSID Alex?

Really? I actually had some respect for him, as I'd assumed he did it in the apartment parking space. You've made things too easy for him Dave.

Best advice ever.

This x 11ty. Read this, then go buy a new clutch. http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/efanmyth.htm

Do you feel like doing another run?