Daleo

It probably would have been more costly for an insurer to repair than the cars actual dollar value. A Financial write off is different to a Statutory write off.

Prices are pretty good; Superpro used to be over $400 per bar. I wasn't aware that they actually did these; the sizes they used to have listed for the NM35 were 27mm front, 24mm rear, as per C34. Their "Roll Control" line is promoted as a hollow/light performance product, so I'm sure they're fine. I'd guess this is a sale/special promotion price; I wonder what I can get them for? After my latest discussion with my supplier; Whiteline has no plan to re-release the Stagea bars at any point in the future. In the absence of any other options these will probably be the way forward. This is good news for Stagea owners!

Not enough doors.

Great to see a dedicated build thread mate; the car deserves it. I won't spoil anything, but I sorta know how this ends. Looking forward to lots of updates!

Perhaps, but some assistance from an experienced friend could save a tonne of heartache on this front.

You can't just bend them back out of the way, or mount on a 90deg bracket? If you can't readily identify a car horn; intercooler installation might not be the job for you.

Let me know when you're up this way next mate; I'll catch you for a coffee or something.You too Craig.

Invest in a quality alarm system that has a duress isolation system fitted. If the worst happens; it gets them away from you; then safely shuts the car down when they are stopped somewhere inconvenient.

Sounds a lot more like noisy tyres to me, are they just cheapy compliance tyres? A noisy wheel bearing will also tend to manifest under braking as well. Good luck with it, welcome to the forum.

So leave it with one job to do; Even in limp mode the gearbox still shifts.

Eliminate the troublesome AFM from your tuning equation?

Nice! I'm just up behind the Ugg Boot Man. We should have a Mountain Stagea meet up.

Yup,that's the one! Very nice ride, paint looks incredible; very nice ride. I'll keep a lookout for the C34. Are you local?

No,the independent at Faulconbridge.

Immaculate pearl white NM35 AR-X at my local servo. Nice and low, gonna have to find out who it belongs to.

Nice one mate; hopefully it's plain sailing from here.

VB upgrade is the Transgo shift kit. Scotty's bypass mod is a cooling system add-on; this allows the cooling system to be purged of air extremely easily (this is one of the most annoying jobs on the whole car, and is critical to the safe running of the engine). It also cooling water to circulate from a dead area in the back of the block, back to the radiator. This allows temperatures to stabilise very quickly after a high load event. This mod is literally worth it's weight in gold.

Spotted this Volvo in a Maccas drive thru the other week; gave him a toot & told him to get out of the way... Also saw this sweet NM35 while I was driving up a hill a couple of days ago.

I finally got the joke. I'm a farkin idiot.

You should put 4 6x9's in there; Twice the awesome. And everybody know the cops love it when the distortion drops.

Pulled apart my centre console to eliminate the squeak/rattles from the shifter surround. A bit of draught excluder tape & about 15 mins work; no more rattles! After 3 years, I finally sprayed my trans cooler mount satin black; now you can't see the shiny stainless peeking out through the grille at you. Also had to replace a broken gas strut mount for the rear door; it snapped off the other day & the hatch crashed down & belted me on the melon. OUCH! Loctited in and a little rust on the thread; so had to drill it out. Removed the opposing one to confirm the thread pitch (8mm x 1.25mm); noticed it has a rubber sealing washer on the flange that seats against the body of the car. After a chat with Scotty; he commented that he's had several snap, and all were using the rubber washer. He also said later build cars do not have the rubber washer. It makes sense, as the washer allows the threaded shaft to flex (and over time fatigue & snap); rather than the butt hard up against the flange, and let it take all of the load. The hatch struts exert quite a lot of load on the mount, so it's only a matter of time. If you get a chance; it would definitely be worth the 10 minutes it takes to pop the bottom clip off the bootlid struts; remove them, take off the rubber washer (if fitted) and bolt them back in. You could take the opportunity to put a little dab of grease on the ball end to ensure smooth operation in the future. Removing & checking BEFORE they snap is far easier than removing a broken thread AFTER they snap. Happily; a replacement ball mount is easily available through Repco (supplied by Monroe) for $5 Is called "Screw Mount; P/N MLSMP351".

Yep; they are a great thing; I'd much rather have it on, and never get hassled. Using a sound meter app, and in the garage, with a bit of reflected noise; mine runs 80db at idle, and 90 at 3000rpm.

Nah, they'll just say it "sounds too loud" and send you to a test station. Varex is an instant defect.

Nice ride.

Was a great race; Marquez is just completely apart from the other riders. ​Seeing Dani actually have a go, makes me think perhaps he isn't actually a tiny humourless robot. Too bad he didn't ride like that earlier in his career.