Daleo

Scotty is the man for this question.

Oh, Bandaids. Farking LOTS of bandaids.

Be very patient, take your time, have plenty of WD40 or CRC for all threads.| Anti-seize everything when you put it back together, and make sure the oil feed line is tight BEFORE you get everything back in. Do you have access to a hoist?

It's my understanding that the NM35 Nismo ECU was a custom map, written for the specific vehicle it was fitted to. This is why we can't just buy a reflashed ECU from Nisan/Nismo to suit. If you bought one from a car that had minimal mods; you're good to go on a local car built to a similar standard. If however; you managed to get one from a more seriously modified car (larger injectors, higher fuel press, etc) you will essentially need to match the mods to achieve the same result. I realise this doesn't really help you, but there is always risk inherent in purchasing stuff like this; most that I've seen, have been awesome, and a real improvement over stock, but there's always the chance of it not being perfect without mods first.

Nice find! Don't forget to throw the part number and details for the O2 in the uber thread.

Nice find! Don't forget to throw the part number and details for the O2 in the uber thread.

Thank god for that. It's people like us that make life simple for those around us.

In other news; I just reinvented the wheel. I'm calling it the "Axle Piano". You're welcome.

Some pics might be in order?

You shouldn't need anything at this height, but if you did; id be using an eccentric camber bush kit.

I'll take all the credit for that!

Fyp.

I reckon! Imagine how hard those N/A's will go with 3 vacuum gauges!

Looks great, all your effort has paid off in spades!

Not me, I voted for the dolphins. Who knew?

Stock brake lines fit Brembo's; only the banjo bolt threads are different. They will work fine. +11ty for group buy.

That's pretty rough, at least you know who he is for sometime down the track; if you're that way inclined... More room for cars=Win!

Why not just grab a good condition 2nd hand one & get it painted to match? Unless you are prepared to spend time modifying or customising the base area; anything else will just look half arsed in comparison. There are some sweet looking covers that some people have; they have an LED blinker in them. Maybe check IM or Yahoo JP?

Leon did a fantastic job on getting a limited number of cruise control set-ups, and they work fantastically well. Due to the number of cars now fitted with drive-by-wire throttles; there are a number of aftermarket options available. Most can be configured to run with OEM Steering wheel controls just as aftermarket headunits can be configured to operate with OEM steering wheel controls. The set-up that Leon pioneered was not a prototype unit; it is commercially available, and there is a how to guide on the M35Stagea.info forum on fitting. I even recently found all the photo's that I took for the how to; so it may be possible to repair the guide. Contact a quality car audio installer, or google cruise control, & get out your wallet.

No good at all! Was the culprit caught? What is the long term prognosis regarding your vision? My thoughts go out to you. Wishing you a complete & speedy recovery.

You should be ok, the rear is where I would normally worry; but your lowering isn't excessive. The only way to guarantee, is to check the alignment once installed.

I have some friends with a CX-5; the fit & finish is amazing on the current Mazda's; and fuel economy is well below your limit Terry. There's room for 4 adults, and has decent ground clearance, and Top gear showed that they tow okay off road too. Other friend has a Kluger, much bigger than a CX-5 but commensurately heavier on fuel at a pinch over 2t. Not a fan of the way they drive at all. No diesel available, only petrol V6.

What you're saying suggests the front suspension you have is more like an S14 than an R33 then. Would you say the arrangement of the links is more like this pic? The link is slightly obscured by the brake mounting bracket, but you get the idea. If it does; this is the link you need for the front. KLC107. http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=KLC107 Can you return them for a refund/exchange? Even if you have to take a slight hit on the price, or you might be able to onsell the KLC108's to an R33 or AWD Stagea owner at a slight loss. I get these at heavily discounted prices; I could help you with the KLC107's if you like. Unfortunately can't really help you with the KLC108's, we might still be able to salvage something for you? Let me know.

You are using the front sway bar links in the wrong position. Pedders are clearly a bunch of absolute retards if they couldn't tell you that. The link is supposed to point upward toward the mounting point on the hub assembly. This is what it should look like assembled; To use the front 2 positions on the swaybar; you need to flip the link around, so the threaded section faces the rear of the car. This link is a KLC108; http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=KLC108 The KLC109 is the link you require for the rear. http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=KLC109 As Ben said; you'll require a pair of "D" bush shells and bolts to mount the rear, but the kit contains everything else you need. I hope this helps. If you need any further assistance, feel free to contact me; I'm happy to help you.

As Alex said Scotty's cooling mod is for engine cooling. Allows cooling system to function far more effectively, and also allows far easier bleeding of the cooling system. The NM35 cooling system is notoriously difficult to bleed. An external transmission cooler is a separate but very worthwhile addition.