Daleo

Why would I put them in there?

But where do you put your wallet?

Awesome stuff Iain; I know Leon will be an excellent custodian of your good work.

This one looks like a damn good set; and it has both alloy & steel nutserts. I use these inserts on everything now I have them. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/214-PC-BLIND-RIVET-NUT-RIVNUT-NUTSERT-TOOL-KIT-M3-TO-M8-/120760789836?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c1de76b4c&_uhb=1

Such dough many gluten so bake Wow!

Grab a can of this for a long trip; $27 at Autobarn http://www.armorall.com.au/products/custom-shield/ You'll buy a lot of this before you pay for a car bra to put scratches all over your baby.

Re; rack, No worries, any time mate. Yeah, well you don't want him getting in trouble; they aren't shy about their labour charge, are they?

If you need a rack, I have one that I'm happy to let go? Maybe $125 would cover it? You're welcome to inspect it, so you know what you're getting. Not terrible price considering the work done; but if it was my mate, I'd be hoping for less in labour.

Grrr, amen to the first one; and if you do let them in, NO WAVE? WTF? The second, I get your point; but I won't run on a crossing, spend my life rousing on my young bloke for doing it. djvoodoo makes a good point about the timeframe allowed; often very short. I always acknowledge drivers that have to wait, hopefully they don't see me & my boy as too much of an imposition to their progress. If they decide to try hurrying me up; it won't end well.

Lol, only the kind that need to keep telling everyone that they are... QFT.

Such a shame you didn't get much done... Sounds like it'll be almost a different car! It's looking damn good too.

+1 for AFM. Unplug it & then see if the car will at least start.

I have the advantage of being able to use my cardboard mock up for templates; I'll see what this one turns out like. A litre odd would last long enough.

The squeal could be related to the shims; I've always run them in my Sumitomo calipers, and never had issues. It could also be incompatibility between the old pad material (layer on the rotors) & the new pads; this is very common. Some pads will refuse to work with the layer of material left on the rotor from the previous pads; it's always a good policy to give a light skim when changing from one pad material to another, unless you KNOW they are compatible. Overheating pads in the "Bed In" phase can cause the bonding material to be drawn to the surface; this effectively glazes the pad. Sometimes scuffing can save them, sometimes they are unsalvageable. People are tempted to get new pads very hot, by doing heaps of very high speed stops, because they are going to use them hard. Often, the temps required to set the bonding material are quite low. The Remsa's have a reputation for not being squealy, nor are they very hard on rotors, but they are dusty. I'll take dust over squeal any day. Hopefully it's a simple fix.

I did a cardboard mock up about a billion years ago for Theo; will use the OEM filler neck, and the side also acts an air guide for his oil cooler. I have all the sheet guillotined and bent, neck made, then we had another kid. I need to machine some bosses for the pumps to push through then get off my arse & weld it. I'm so busy at work now, I barely get time to do my paperwork in the extra hour I work on top of my 12hr shift. Weekends used to be fab time; not anymore. It might hold a litre of water, with the neck volume added; a little more.

Piss those pads off; they're nothing special. Do yourself a favour & grab a set of Remsa pads from GSL Rallysport. Bed them in EXACTLY as GSL recommend. Great value rated to 650 degrees. No farkin squealing. http://gslrallysport.com/remsa

I still have no 6 in pieces. I'll get cracking.

10000k are far too blue; even 6000k are getting too blue in my opinion. You want 4200k for the best light dispersion. Coincidentally this is what they use from the factory.

Cooler is bloody huge Cam, why such a large one? I guess it will definitely do the job. Wheels look epic, 19x9.5 +30 has got to be the perfect width/offset for a wheel on these; they suit it perfectly.

You're right Chris, the tyre set up I have suggested won't solve the issue on an AR-X, as they run a larger rolling dia than the RS/RX/AXIS. Do they use a different Speedo cluster? Using a tyre size guide, should allow you to plug in easily available tyre dimensions, and reduce the error.

Just buy it you guise!

A swirl pot won't fit in that location on a VQ25det, as that is where the intake runs. It will (just) fit on the inside of the area where the Master cylinder/booster sits; but you'd need to drill 3 holes (2 up high, and one down low) so that you can get a line in from the bleed point, and one from the radiator neck. Using a blank cap on the rad that only closes the top face, and allowing any air bubbles out through recovery port; you then run a hose from this to the swirl pot. The cap on the swirl pot will sit at least 1" above the rear bleed point, and several inches above the rad cap. The bottom of the swirl pot then runs to the bottom radiator hose (colder water) and convection provides constant flow through the hoses from bleed point and radiator neck. A recovery cap is used on the swirl pot, and the recovery line leads away from the swirl pot, back to the overflow reservoir. Another alternative position which will also work; on the front timing cover. This vastly simplifies the hose lengths, but to get the required head height; positions the filler neck of the swirl pot millimetres away from the bonnet lining. A bit like this: It's almost like they finally admitted there was a design flaw in the routing!