Daleo

The Whiteline bar is 50mm narrower than the one on the auto, which does push the links out quite a long way. I don't like the angle using the links that Whiteline supply with the bar, but using their H/D ball links, it is perfectly safe. They have far more articulation, and are much stronger.

Does it begin with A?

Happy Father's day Rudi. A good son is the reflection of a good father.

But, but, I need to know how to wire up my neons for mad street cred. Also, what colour should I plastidip my wheels to attract wimmenz?

PM sent a couple of days ago.

How much weight does desperation and disappointment add?

How you & your mates see yourselves; What the rest of the world sees;

You are riding a tricycle. Real bikes have two wheels.

15 custom stickers! Pushbike now haz more powerz than VQ25dd!

Got you covered little guy. http://www.e90post.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=308710&d=1253687144

Are you even old enough to drive?

Fair enough, sometimes pics don't tell the full story, and I don't doubt you would be looking for the proper solution. I'll stop stinking up Matt's build thread now.

Not criticizing you or your engineer, but I don't think I'd have been satisfied with your solution. The original mounting point has a captive nut on the other side of the steel, THIS is what supports the load on the seat, a thread cut in the rail is much easier to tear out than it is to pull the captive nut through the rail. Also the rail is not thicker than the diameter of the tread it is supporting, so that's unacceptable in my view. The rule of thumb to work with is thread diameter +20% for thread engagement. This makes the BOLT the weakest point; not the thread. If I was your engineer I'd have made it a requirement to replicate the captive thread BEHIND the rail rather than tapping a thread into the rail. You could correct this by sliding a nut in and tightening, or using a tapped steel plate 10mm thick instead of a nut. Either that or I'd have required a flat bar rail between the original mounting points (10x40mm) and then new tapped holes in that to pick up the rail mounts. Countersunk high tensile screws would keep everything flush on the underside of the 10x40mm intermediate rail. I've been fabricating for over 20 years now, and OVERKILL is the only way to go on critical parts.

Nice one; thanks!

Well, if you're going to lose a car; that's the end result you want. Details on GPS tracker?

The wheels really pull it together, love the blue on this.

Shit yeah; that's what it's all about.

I like black; I will help. http://www.mscn.com.au/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=662 Also, the ACL ceramic cored aluminium heatshield can be painted with a high temp paint if necessary. In black for example.

It might help your business even more if you became a legitimate advertiser instead of trying to plug your business covertly. Then the forum to which you have only contributed 6 posts, might also get something. But that's just me huh?

No worries, glad it's all good.

The spline is cut quite a long way back on column shafts normally; and there is no evidence on that shaft that the coupling was ever further along the spline. Also, as a safety mechanism, the area where the pinchbolt goes through the universal, the shaft underneath has a machined groove. The pinchbolt actually sits in the groove. The bolt usually has to be completely removed before the shaft will slide free. I reckon you're worrying for nothing.

Good call. It does rule.

Ok, I didn't think that anyone with the funds needed for an Evo 10 would be in the Stage/Legnum pricepoint. My comment related to the fact that an auto Evo (7or 8) would have comparable, or worse fuel economy to a Stagea; with none of the conveniences of a Stagea.

Definitely starter motor, I've found lubing the shaft actually causes clutch dust to accumulate, and promotes this issue. Happy to be proven wrong. I never saw any evidence that mine had ever had lube on it originally. Contact cleaner, and flush out all the shite; then leave it dry.

Get Scotty's dump, and be happy with life.