Daleo

It does respond more quickly to accelerator input after a braking event; I reckon the car feels less "lazy" with it working.

It is pretty normal; they do tend to struggle at lower speeds in hot weather. Once you get moving, they shed heat much better. A larger capacity radiator is a very useful thing on the NM35; along with a large transmission cooler.

You'll have much less of an issue with the drone situation with the manual conversion; which is yet another good thing to add to the enormous list of good things about manual cars...

It does seem odd that you'd place an order for Stanless steel then request it be delivered to a such an ironically named place. Still; if said delivery address is as packed with Stans as one would imagine; the inherent lack of Stans in the steel you've chosen, is a wise choice. Well played.

You moron; if you read the title, you'd realise what you actually want is steel without STAN'S.

Hoverboard jousting it is.We meet at dawn.

Nah; my mates brother was the first to do that bruh.

I believe R35 GTR would have seat heaters; but the others may or may not; depending on what options were ticked on the donor vehicle.

Have you conducted your test in accordance with the RMS specs, and ensured that there are no hard surfaces within 20 metres to reflect any sound? There is no way the Legalis is 114db.

Refer to Lakes comment below; the "choo choo" noise you're hearing is the compressor stalling; which is a sure sign that the BOV isn't opening. This; so much this. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/191727753547?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Honestly Matt, just grab a set of R34 GT-t Sumitomo 4 piston fronts (with rotors) can usually be done for around the $300- $350 mark. They literally bolt straight on; with some trimming to the dust shield behind the rotor. These are a huge step up from the stock front brakes; I don't reckon your missus will want for more. Obviously having a greater selection of performance oriented pads will help here too. Throw in a set of QFM HPX pads; around $90. They bite well from dead cold and run up to around 550deg. I don't rate EBC car brake pads at all; they're overpriced, and poor performing. RDA rotors are fine; they also do a couple of budget performance pad compounds if you're trying to keep costs down. They will look good, and still fit behind most 17's; (the stock Stagea 17's might need a hubcentric spacer if you insist on staying with them).

Why have you invested so much time in a poorly fitting, and obviously poorly built knockoff BOV?

K&N HP1008

Just remember that the 60000U before the NM portion of the vin is a compliance addition.

So push in the clip at the rear, then just twist them gently?

How to get them off please mate?

*Fujitsubo*

For $15k; this is about the most fun you can have in a car with your pants on. Whoever buys this will not be disappointed.

Motion carried. Woodgrain it is.

Please do full woodgrain wrap dude; That wood be awesome.

All the ugleh bodykits!

Exactly, as the bar loads up; it wants to slide sideways in its mounts. This is the knocking that you can hear. The use of separate lateral locks on the Whiteline bars is no doubt in response to variability in build dimension, to guarantee a good fit.

As kiwi said; no risk of damage. Just syringe out the excess until the fill level is correct.

Panel shops are not detailers or "Paint correction" specialists.

It's a damn shame they won't produce them anymore; I've begged and pleaded.