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cheers joel. i take the signal for the EBC from a T-piece in the hose from the fuel regulator, which is all cool. Its one of the 2 hoses that go to the solenoid that i need to worry about. i prolly didnt explain it well enough originally. The hose in question is the one which provides the boost pressure level to the solenoid. On the stock IC pipes, there is a nipple on the pipe returning, but as a result, causes a lag in the signal being received in the solenoid, as their is much air in between. However, with a FMIC going in, this return pipe/nipple will no longer be present, so the question is, where do I go about getting the signal from? If no other advice comes, i think i will just get the guy to, if possible, weld another nipple into the stock pipe leaving the compressor side. Thanks anyway.

Hey all, I have a Profeb B/2 installed and currently with a stock intercooler. According to the diagrams etc. i should taking the pressure signal from just after the compressor, but with the stock intercooler, there is a nipple just after the intercooler. As a result, there a bit of a problem with a time delay i think, due to all that air that needs to get pressurised between the compressor and after the intercooler. However, on Thurs I am gettin a front mount installed, which will replace the piping where that original nipple is, so - should i get the guy to install a hot pipe from the compressor to FMIC pipes (as it is not included in kit), and get him to put a nipple on it? What have you guys done? Hope i explained that clear enough, Cheers, Matt

yeah i plan on getting a second hand PFC, but dont think i'll bother with the controller - can get later if i really feel like playing with things.

Enrico, i installed mine with a friend about an hour ago... there is a hole through firewall with a grommet with some other wires already going through about three inches to right of throttle cable in driver footwell. if you full lock your wheel right, you can take of the spash guard and poke a screwdriver through pretty easily - i then taped a wire to screwdriver and pulled in htrough, then the vacuum hose. as for lumination, at least in mine, there are spare terminals sitting up under the dash. However, what we got wrong - the hose to pipe into... i should have checked, but we used the line which goes from manifold to carbon thingy - produces really interesting readings. will change this to the bov line tomorrow. Anyone know why this is the wtong line? is there are 1-way valve in it??

?? each time you want to increase boost? i will shortly be installing my EBC, can someone confirm that you dont need re-tune every time you change from low to high???

thats cool jnr24, its not our money anyway. as for labour, i plan to do mine myself - i think the only tricky bit is finding a tool to cut the hole for the return pipe. true they are doing the same job, ie cooling air, but at what cost? efficiency of the intercooler does matter, but i suppose that depends on what level of tuning your are aiming at - kinda like buying premium speakers and running them on stock wiring. i tend to be an idiot and buy the more expensive stuff just in case.

jnr24 what do you mean save money? I just checked out that site and the kits on ARE for skylines start at $2K? (or do they include labour?) You can get Blitz LM kits for $1650 retail, and I can get Trust/Greddy R-SPL kit from importer for less than $2K. (at least in Adelaide the prices are like this, not sure why it would be more elsewhere though).

so i take it that it will fit in the ash tray position? do you think I'll have to angle it to fit it in?

Hey guys, just wondering if people have got pics of where they have installed their EBC's? i have got a Profec B Spec 2 and thinking of putting it in the hole is where the ashtray is... just looking for some inspiration. Also, do you guys have advice on whether to share the boost signal coming into the cabin for a mech boost gauge, or to run a separate line for the EBC? Cheers, Matt

i am thinking of installing my EBC in this spot - if i dont use the ash tray to help with install i'll let you know - hopefully by the weekend.

BryanB,when grounding an amp which is close to the battery, it is best to connect the amp to the -ve terminal, or the same ground point. The reason for this is that by grounding at another point nearby can 'induce a ground looping inductance', which can leak signals back into the amp and cause interference. If the battery is a long way away, then there is little chance of this and a different grounding point is unlikely to cause a problem. I got this info first from my old man, and backed up by ppl at DLS.

i think it is illegal to tint door windows to any amount - in any case, i got mine done, as well as the quarters and rear for $200 cash at something-a-car on north-east rd. This was for their 20% stuff (which happens to also be illegal), and they removed the tint that was already on the quarters - so if you guys go the same place, you should as a group get it for $180 i think. Also, dont expect a reciept.

If your looking for inspiration, check out these guy's work: http://www.rankonen.com agreed the car isn't what we would choose, but hey...

the only question is, how easy is it to get piping for this intercooler to suit?

Just wondering, do most established tune shops have the commander controllers - ie if i dont want to do any playing around myself, can i just get away with buying the Power FC?

as per mr r32's challenge - does anyone have a running relationship with unique auto sports?? if so, we could try organising a group buy of their air boxes, as shown at: http://www.uniqueautosports.com/pricelists...ine%20parts.htm thats of course the lazy way.

Further to eriktufa's q, where do these light bulbs sit legally? If they are legal, id be interested in a set of headlight/high beam globes.

I actually 'carpeted' mine in felt. Its really cheap ($7/m) and really thin so no probs with squeezing in side panels. Came up really well, not sure if the photo does justice. Just for a compare.

SOLD thanks!

for anyone in interested in lip for s1 R33, go to: www.japanesemotorport.com.au and check out page 7 of Parts in Stock. I think i deserve a commission for this...not sure if they ship/send parts.

unless someone else knows, i will try and document my attempts at rewiring doors. Hippy let me know if you beat me to it... might tackle easier jobs like sub box building/boot mdf work in the meantime.

I have run the RCA's and spk cables down the left side of the car (under the carpet), but when running up through kick panel I discovered the ECU - is is the ECU right? Anyone had interference problems from this? While i am at it - anyone know the process of getting cables into the doors; i know how to remove the door trim, but it looks like you have to remove a bit of dash/glove box to get to the port between car and door. Cheers, Matt

i think the decision to use stock wires really comes down to how good you want the overall system to sound - if your putting in high end speakers then you will be really shooting yourself in the foot if you dont upgrade the wires. Whats that law - the system is only as good as its worst part...

i think airbag and some of the other features might be for Type-M series 1s. (my guess)

fortunately power cable is only about 0.5m long (in boot).