oofoofoo

i am using Nero too. Have not had any problems yet when i tested head unit in shop (just bought it and have not installed yet). I think often the quality of the CD you burn onto causes problems.

Looking for $150 for the set.

Just come back from audio shop - techie suggested that i run RCA's/Spk cables on the left side of car, to avoid fuel pump cables and possible interference... can anyone confirm this?

i am already speading reasonably serious $$ on DLS speakers, so the relatively small amount extra for top quality wires is worth it. you can only keep adding $$ for so long till you realise you are spending far too much on something what will sound good, but make your car slower.

Power cables won't cost anywhere near that! (assuming you mount the amp in the boot) You only need about 2 m total of power cable: Thickest bit (i'm getting 2G) between battery and fuse, 8G between fuse and amp, and then same again for ground for amp. From Car Toys (in SA), DLS power cables for this would come to a total of little of $40. Just checked jaycar website - 4G wire OFC wire is $6.50 /m and 8G is $2.75 /m. The expensive bit from cabling comes from having the run speaker cables from amp back to speakers in the front - nice cable costs $9/m (dls stuff), and you need about 10 m. Then there are RCA's too. I am about to buy my audio stuff, and i think the retail price includes about $250 worth of wires/fuse stuff.

Does anyone know if fitting a brandname intercooler of similar size (eg GReddy R-SPL Type24 2 etc) requires the same level of cutting/pasting of bits on the front?

Hey PHat, how old is the head unit? Why are you selling it? I am just about to buy a whole bunch of audio stuff so reasonably interested.

I think generally ppl go to exhaust shops for that sort of custom piping. Won't be cheap though. Is your intercooler from a kit itself? If so, you might be able to pick up the piping through an parts importer. Again, piping tends to take up half the cost of those kits.

Cheers man, closer, but still not quite SA. Perhaps will organise a road trip with friends to melb for a weekend.

Damn thats a pretty nice website - love all the install's pics. Unfortunately i am in adelaide - bit far to go for some custom work. Is there anyway to get an idea of the cost of some of those installs? Also, anyone know of a equally impressive seeming place in SA?

I dont know a whole lot about the various options but are looking into buying a FMIC, and logically, a boost controller with it. However, just wondering what the opinions/experience is with having a separate boost controller or using combo with a new computer (ie boost controll kit with an Apexi Power FC). I am looking at a GReedy FMIC and a GReddy PRofec B Spec II EBC. However, want to replace ECU with Apexi Power FC in the near (income willing) future. As a result, considering the boost control kit as part of Apexi stuff. Just means i need to buy it all at once i suppose? Does anyone know much about the Apexi boost control kit, ie i suppose all control of it is done through a commander right? (this makes me think i will go the separate EBC). Thanks in advance. Matt

I thought i posted this already, but didn't appear as far as i can tell. Was also going to put in For Sale, but need to get 40 posts first! Anyway, these tyres came out on my car when i imported it, i'd say they have about 75% thread left - approx 6 mm depth in grooves. Have attached pics, make an offer. :uh-huh:

How much do people know about fibreglassing? or even just building replacement walls for the boot? The stock stuff on mine is a little hacked on one side, and seeing as i am putting in sub/amps in soon, thought it might be a good time to investigate getting in replaced. Do people get this kinda thing done at the audio shop? any idea on costs and details? It seems too time consuming/painful to try and measure it up myself. call me lazy

I am just looking into the whole audio thing so probably not the best source of info but what i can gather - components or splits (ie woofer separate to tweeters) are good for getting better imaging and staging, but are more complex to install (as you will need to cut a hole somewhere for the tweeter, whereas you can probably fit the woofer where the original coax speaker was). I think ppl basically buy coax 2/3 way speakers for ease of install, just slot them in basically. This is getting into a really grey area for me but i think - coax 2/3 way speakers like you have, have built in crossovers/freq filters so dont think you can introduce your own to take more control yourself. As for placement of the amp - i think putting it as close as possible to the battery is best, that way you will need to least amount of expensive power cable - also i read somewhere that you want to keep your amps away from your head unit, under the passenger seat is almost getting too close. But putting amp in back, means you just run the RCA's to the back, and run the much cheaper speaker cables back to the speakers in the front and possibly avoid interference problems that may occur as a result of having fatass power cables running from your boot to the amp in front. I was myself going to put coax speakers in front and rear and no sub, but since i have started investigating things i am going with components in the front and 12" sub in back. Planning on using 2 amps, one bridged for sub and the other 2 channel to run components, both of which i plan to mount on the wall between boot and battery section. But this is all my plans, things could quite easily change... Question for those more knowledgeable - whats the consensus on sub direction? ie forward, backward, straight up??

at the moment i cant do much but sit at home (doctors orders), but yeah i will come out (to a cruise) at some stage. Once i add some more stuff.. oh mine is black - absolute washing pain in the arse; true to what they say, the first black car you own tends to be the last black car you own.

Does anyone know the maximum width allowable? I know 18" is the max legal diameter, but wat about tyre width? 265 has to be getting close doesn't it? I'd imagine you'd have to be pretty unlucky to get done for tyre width, but things being as they are...

i had my airbag sterring wheel, handbrake boot and gear stick boot redone in leather at WMT. cant exactly remember now, but cost about $450 i think. They seem like a pretty decent crowd and the work was well done - but probably expensive. I just got fed up with wear on steering wheel so said bugger it, get it fixed.

cheers, was thinking car toys. Dont really know of anywhere else which has a good range of quality speakers (i need to check out some place called GT audio or something also). Have worked it out with friend - looking at two CA20 amps (1 x 170 WRMS), a classic series 12" sub, and hopefully the Reference series 6.5" components for front. add a couple of hundred for wiring/box, and with a bit of bargaining looking probably at $1700-1800. Then there is just a whole heap of work to do.

Cheers hippy. Hopefully will spend my money in the right places - looking at DLS stuff. i think if i am going to spend the cash on decent speakers, should probably go an amp for the fronts. hoping to do it all for about 1600 (including head unit). i'll let you know.

Hey guys, just starting to look into the audio thing, so pretty unsure of all the specifics, but... can someone simply explain the concepts of chanels on an amp with reference to simply powering a sub. I was originally thinking of just putting in coax 6" in the front (or 6.5") and 6x9's in the the rear shelf, but i think i am turning away from the 6x9s and go the sub. I am at this stage just planning on having an amp for the sub, and just run the components off the head unit. Basically i want to check that there is no point in getting a 4 channel amp just for the sub, and what the consensus is on component speakers and needing their own amps. Bit long winded, probably as a result of me not really knowing much on the topic. Cheers.

Anyone know the specific dimensions of what the stock speakers are, and whats the approx max dimensions that you can fit in replacement? Save me pulling the door apart to find out what size replacement speakers i am allowed. Cheers.

Great work with the guide. I'll sit around like a bum till someone puts up an equally impressive speaker/amp/sub install guide, then spend the money.