RBceffy25

Ah ha so 25det box in ceffie then. From memory i thingk you need navara speedo driven gear. swap it on the A31/R32 cable and thats it! Ithink thats all you have to to but dont quote me on it. I think you need to search the DIY threads, i konw there is a topic on here that covers how to do it in great detail. Or do you mean it had 25de in it??

good luck with it all dude! Let us know how you go!

This link is a must read for all info regarding 'multi-link geometry' http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/296725-roll-...ion-thread.html Enjoy!

It also tells you that is the best way to tune out axle tramp. Read the article 'carefully' and study it. You cant always have your cake and eat it. Thats the world of modifying. Most of the time it comes down to a "COMPROMISE". Its the nature of the beast of the world we live in, governed by the laws of physics. If you dont want any axle-tramp do the full solid job. A lot of manufacturers give you a choice between polyurethane or aluminium. Depend what your goals are with your cars aplication. On a side note: Why is it that there is always some dickhead who has to cut someone else down because of their own 'personal' opinion. I have spent considerable time studying this and posting up this info for everyone's benefit. If you dont like it then don't read it or apply the knowlede given. Just remember that most of the time this sort of information comes from experts or individuals who have spent much of their life doing what the info refers to for a living.

Get a set of these Despite the brand they are some of the best priced around (not to mention one of the greatest brands ever!) http://www.rhdjapan.com/ikeya-formula-stre...4-a31-c33-20697 and for ends you want http://www.kts-web.com/overseas/product/arm/tr_e.html or http://www.kts-web.com/overseas/product/arm/tr_r.html

Check out this link! It is a must read! All those secrets you refer to should be right here! http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/296725-roll-...ion-thread.html And regardles of the fact they talk about S chassis the same basic theory still applies

Go to the driftworks site forum and pick their brains. The ppl on there have a wealth of knowledge on multi-link geometry

Yeah man its all the same stuff. Some sites just give a better or clearer explanation on the details of it all. I put all those links up just so you can understand all of these parts functions clearly. Go the full alloy gear. Better off getting it right the first time. As explained in that massive post I put up unless its aluminium you may still get some torsion with the urethane gear with will still manifest itself as axle tramp. The alloy is full-proof. If it’s a streeter (like mine: ) you will still have all the sound deadening and shit anyway with will reduce a lot of the transferred road noise associated with solid mounts.

How about you give some advice instead of a personal attack. Why dont we stay on topic, ok?

C33 cage will fit A31 but its loose and doesn't contact the roof and pillars properly. Sits about an inch off the roof. Defeats the purpose of the cage. A31 cage will fit C33 but it will push the roof up causin a rather large dent in the center of your roof. C33 cabin dimensions are different to A31. The roof is lower and the doors come up higher as to give some structural integrity to the cabin as they are pillar-less.

Just use R32gts-t. I just used one in my ceffy. fits and works 100%. I will try and find the part number for you

A31 cefiro RB20DET Brake pad part numbers are: DB1144 - rear DB1485 - front I have bought them and the are on my car right now and have been for over two months.

A31 cefiro RB20DET Brake pad part numbers are: DB1144 - rear DB1485 - front I have bought them and the are on my car right now and have been for over two months.

I was only reffering to how a solenoid can control boost. Ok so extreme back pressure can alter the effect of a pre determined spring rate in an actuator. But in any case, point taken. Back to the topic, Can anyone give any other reason as to WHY its boostin to 11.5 in an unmodified (alleged) car, other than leaky hoses, dodgy solenoid, modified actuator, boost creep?

Also read this http://splparts.com/SPL_SDB_S13.html And heres a link for solid bushes (replace pineapples) for s13 only though. Im not sure if anyone makes 'em for R34 http://splparts.com/SPL_SSB_S13.html

Have a look here http://www.rhdjapan.com/gt-1-motorsports-r...dy-chaser-60154 Heres the diff mounts http://www.driftworks.com/shop/p671/Solid-...oduct_info.html You really want to do subframe mounts at the least. Its a must have.

AH HA! Found a great link! Check this out for all your skyline suspension arm requirements! http://www.driftworks.com/shop/Suspension-...9_41/index.html

Are you using these bad boys aswell?

Here are the specs:

How to fix axle tramp Basically put your coil overs in, adjust your rebound, possibly lower the rear spring rate, and put solid (aluminium) spacers and bushes in your sub frame. Read on for an informative explanation into this. Ok this is all basically summerised/quoted from an issue of BOOST (ZOOM) Understanding axle tramp: Consider the job of the rear wheel for the moment. When it becomes driven, it is - in turn - driven in a direction that is not only forward, but also in a vector angle that is tied into the pinion angle of the diff. Rarely it is ever a case of straight thrust that has the car pushing straight down the road. Axle tramp occurs when the vehicle is suddenly shocked (dumping the clutch etc) and the driven wheels wind up energy in the shocks, springs and ultimately the vehicle subframe mount that impart a huge backload against the driven wheels as a reaction. In many cases the effective damping of the system is so poor that once you start the wheels tramping, the effect of the whole process becomes self-generating. So for each and every tramp there is a storing and release of energy that keeps the whole thing going and going and going. Shocks and springs: First point is to consider the affect of the rear shocks and springs of your vehicle. It is indeed the job of the shock to control oscillations of the rear end, but there is really only so much work you can expect the shock to perform. If you have adjustable shocks, you need to work through the bump and rebound settings to check how much of an affect this has on your vehicles willingness to tramp. Regardless of the fact that most people will tell you that too much rebound will encourage tramp, winding some (rebound) out will ensure that the rear end stays smooth under all conditions. You want the most stiffness as possible but still soft enough to be able to control some of the tramp. Tyres and Pressure: All that you will find with different tyre and pressure combinations is that having a different overall traction point will delay the onset of wheelspin long enough to mask the effect of tramp. Bushes: Rubber bushes have a tendancy to 'wind up' and store energy which can be released as tramp when the wheels start spinning. Pineapples add a measure of stiffness to the rear end, along with a different stack height that can, in turn, change the directional vector of the rear wheel by altering the pinion angle of the diff. If you rum a thin pineapple(or put it one side of the mount) its good for grip and the opposite is good for drift. Stiffer bushes help to fix tramp by not contorting to the point where it 'winds up' the rear cradle. Full solid, aluminium bushes are made for this exact reason as they do not contort and wind up the sub-frame in any way. The downside is that there is increased harshness being transmitted from the road through to the cabin, which is why manufacturers use such soft bushes in the first place. Springs: If all else fails then change the rear springs. The softer the spring, the easier time the rebound of the rear damper has in controlling the oscillation of the spring. It’s this basic mismatch of damper and spring that contributes to tramp in the first place hence why sport cars do the tramping and luxury cars just drive away. Wheel Alignment: Always make sure your wheel alignment is up to par before you tackle any axle-tramp issue. It is quite possible to have a toe misalignment on the driven wheels which tries to pull the vehicle one way under acceleration, which can have the unintended affect of not only starting tramp conditions, but also exacerbate the condition. I hope this is informative and helps you in some way. Cheers!

either use spacers with longer threads/taller rca's or have your knuckles/spindles modified. I know this is all doable with the S chassis however i'm not sure how much adjustment you will have because of your upper control arms. Honestly, considering the age of most of our nissans these days, your better off coughing up for aftermarket, fully adjustable arms. They come with longer threads to correct roll center. http://www.rhdjapan.com/nissan/r32-skyline...links-rods-arms

But just quickly, Teins are one of the greatest things to come out of Japan! RS series are awsome! Tein FTW! By the way what sort of work will your car be doing? i.e drift, hill climb, circut etc?

Basically put your coil overs back in, adjust your rebound, possibly lower the rear spring rate, and put solid (aluminium) spacers and bushes in your sub frame. Read on for an informative explanation into this. Ok this is all basically summerised/quoted from an issue of BOOST (ZOOM) Understanding axle tramp: Consider the job of the rear wheel for the moment. When it becomes driven, it is - in turn - driven in a direction that is not only forward, but also in a vector angle that is tied into the pinion angle of the diff. Rarely it is ever a case of straight thrust that has the car pushing straight down the road. Axle tramp occurs when the vehicle is suddenly shocked (dumping the clutch etc) and the driven wheels wind up energy in the shocks, springs and ultimately the vehicle subframe mount that impart a huge backload against the driven wheels as a reaction. In many cases the effective damping of the system is so poor that once you start the wheels tramping, the effect of the whole process becomes self-generating. So for each and every tramp there is a storing and release of energy that keeps the whole thing going and going and going. Shocks and springs: First point is to consider the affect of the rear shocks and springs of your vehicle. It is indeed the job of the shock to control oscillations of the rear end, but there is really only so much work you can expect the shock to perform. If you have adjustable shocks, you need to work through the bump and rebound settings to check how much of an affect this has on your vehicles willingness to tramp. Regardless of the fact that most people will tell you that too much rebound will encourage tramp, winding some (rebound) out will ensure that the rear end stays smooth under all conditions. You want the most stiffness as possible but still soft enough to be able to control some of the tramp. Tyres and Pressure: All that you will find with different tyre and pressure combinations is that having a different overall traction point will delay the onset of wheelspin long enough to mask the effect of tramp. Bushes: Rubber bushes have a tendancy to 'wind up' and store energy which can be released as tramp when the wheels start spinning. Pineapples add a measure of stiffness to the rear end, along with a different stack height that can, in turn, change the directional vector of the rear wheel by altering the pinion angle of the diff. If you rum a thin pineapple(or put it one side of the mount) its good for grip and the opposite is good for drift. Stiffer bushes help to fix tramp by not contorting to the point where it 'winds up' the rear cradle. Full solid, aluminium bushes are made for this exact reason as they do not contort and wind up the sub-frame in any way. The downside is that there is increased harshness being transmitted from the road through to the cabin, which is why manufacturers use such soft bushes in the first place. Springs: If all else fails then change the rear springs. The softer the spring, the easier time the rebound of the rear damper has in controlling the oscillation of the spring. It’s this basic mismatch of damper and spring that contributes to tramp in the first place hence why sport cars do the tramping and luxury cars just drive away. Wheel Alignment: Always make sure your wheel alignment is up to par before you tackle any axle-tramp issue. It is quite possible to have a toe misalignment on the driven wheels which tries to pull the vehicle one way under acceleration, which can have the unintended affect of not only starting tramp conditions, but also exacerbate the condition. I hope this is informative and helps you in some way. Cheers!

Google is your best friend!

exactly what i was getting at. It is not an r32 actuator as it is impossible for it to boost at 5psi (stated earlier) if it were. Not to mention if it were, it would be in great condition for age lol!