RBceffy25

wrong thread

1 x Sump 1 x Gearbox 2 x Filter 1 x Diff Thanks Phil!

what is it about creep?

Also try cleaning your AFM

This will also max out the standard airflow meter because of the cold air coming in through your air box. This will cause the ecu safeguard 'rich & retard', which enriches fuel mixtures and retards the ignition timing in an attempt to safely reduce the amount of boost the thing is making. 10psi in the day and 10psi at night are two different thing because the air is more dense at night and the AFM recognises this hence R&R. This same thing happened to me when I fit my FMIC and CAI. I had to immediately block my massive (bout 5") cai just so i could drive it up the road and back. If you can, fit the standard air box with panel filter or get a mines or equivalent standard ecu with boost cut, rev limit, R&R etc. all removed or get an Apexi AFC or get nistune or just fork out and get a complete after market ECU... like what you should have done first if you had plans to get any more than standard power...... just as I learnt the hard way But seriously, just test it tonight by blocking it off and go for a blat. EDIT: Because you have a FMIC you shouldn't have any intake temp. problems with the CAI blocked off.

http://www.aliexpress.com/product-fm/33895...holesalers.html

rich and retard. block off you CAI tonight and go for a drive.

My missus corolla had a cracked head recently and the only symptoms were it would over heat maybe once or twice a week and needed the coolant to be topped up a sh$t load every time it happened. So I started checking the coolant daily and found some days it was ok (night driving only, so it seemed) but most other times it needed a little top up. I spent ages replacing things, getting angry and swearing a lot. I took it to my a radiator guy and told him everything. All he did was pop the bonnet, pop the radiator cap, disconnect the ignition coil and crank the engine. It was immediately apparent that compression was escaping through the cooling system. You could literally see wisps of compression as it bubbled out of the radiator. A few weeks later the RB25 in my ceffie started doing a very similar thing. So I did the same test and got the same results. Prior to testing my cefiro I performed the test on my bro's C33, RB20E which has a buggered radiator so is always overheating and there was no burbling of the coolant. Just nice still coolant, as it should be. So Try that, otherwise perform a compression test. If no results, then have a leakdown test performed. My two cents. Hope this helps! Cheers!

Is it possible for you to take a photo that will do your paint justice? My ceffy has had a respray at some point. At the moment its pearl white with a slight bluish pearl. I love the colour but I wanna check if its the same as the paint code.

HAHA! KH0 Thats my colour! Factory pearl cefiro. http://www.uniquecarsandparts.com.au/colou..._datsun_A-G.htm http://www.uniquecarsandparts.com.au/colou..._datsun_H-Z.htm

Has anyone ever noticed the rib-like castings on the inside of the standard GTR log plenum? I'll get some pics up.

some great info here!

So no-one has one? C'mon people! Real, actual A31 front sway bar!

yea, but does it foul on the sump? PICS?!

Apart from price and visual difference, are there any differences between these two turbos? i.e. turbine crop, number of blades? Also please express any opinions or experience with either of these products. Cheers! Edit:some links might help eh! http://www.rhdjapan.com/trust-greddy-turbo...-06sh-25g-19731 http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...#ht_2417wt_1139

http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=20445 Had another look at the Lux.... I was wrong about that one..... Edit: http://us1.webpublications.com.au/static/i...7/2740_17mg.jpg

Had another look at the Lux.... I was wrong about that one..... http://www.bezman.com/haru4703-img600x450-...396dsc00006.jpg http://www.bezman.com/ca18inlets.jpg

Yes of course it would fit perfectly with an SR... I think thats the whole point we are all trying to make If any one is interested, all I need Is a standard front sway bar and have it sent to a guy I found to use as a template/sample. Then we can all have actual heavy duty, adjustable 27mm A31 Cefiro swaybars!

well fu@# me....... I dont know how many of these exact threads i have read about ceffy swaybars but no one ever has straight answers..... until now Pics please?

Just interested as to why? I thought they use Performance Springs?

This may be a noob question but here go's. Say a head is cracked and through the intake stroke is ingesting water/coolant then trying to compress and burn it. Could any side effects of this be linked to knock? or just misfire? Cheers!

I just posted this elsewhere and I feel its worth a mention. I am pretty sure there were three versions of the intake manifold and heads on the CA18DET all with different runner design. I think most Aussie models have the two runners per cylinder heads and manifolds while I think the poms got the big port single runner CA's. I think there was also a version with three runners per cylinder. Another example is the 3RZ-FE in my HiLux which has two runners per cylinder. One runner will be longer and thinner internally to maintain/increase flow velocity, while the other runner will be short and fat for minimal restriction at high RPM. Take notice of all engines you view and you will be surprised at how long this idea has been in use and how many makes and models use this. Edit: Also have a look at the manifold on the Toyota 1G-GE/GEU/GTE/GZE, just to mention another.

I am pretty sure there were three versions of the heads on the CA18DET all with different runner design. I think most Aussie models have the two runners per cylinder heads and manifolds while I think the poms got the big port single runner CA's. I think there was also a version with three runners per cylinder. Another example is the 3RZ-FE in my HiLux which has two runners per cylinder. One runner will be longer and thinner internally to maintain/increase flow velocity, while the other runner will be short and fat for minimal restriction at high RPM. Take notice of all engines you view and you will be surprised at how long this idea has been in use and how many makes and models use this. Edit: Also have a look at the manifold on the Toyota 1G-GE/GEU/GTE/GZE, just to mention another.

Yea, I wouldn't think so. I just wanna clean up as much stuff as i can in the engine bay to make it look as clean as possible.

OK I'll ask again, clearer this time. Can the carbon canister be removed and/or relocated legally?