RBceffy25

The idle adjustment screw is on the factory AAC/IAC unit. there is also another on on the factory ecu for further adjustment. It does not plumb in before the throttle body. It really has nothing to do with the throttle body apart from the TPS. As far as i understand in simple terms, it all by-passes the throttle body and lets in a small amount of air to keep it from stalling while the throttle is closed and a little bit more again for cold start. The throttle adjustment screw is turned to let more or less air in to control the idle. Have a read of the 'DIY AAC clean' thread to get a bit more understanding about this or google search the workshop manual for everything you will ever need to know. I do not own an aftermarket plenum so I don't know how valid this info is. Cheers!

Just throwing it out there..... I had a very similar problem. turns out the spot welds on the clutch pedal bracket came apart and the whole pedal was twisting when i pressed the pedal and in turn not compressing the master cylinder piston completely and in turn not fully compressing the slave and so on.... which obviously made it difficult changing gears. I ignored it to the point where i eventually stuffed my slave cylinder and had to have it reco'd. All it took to fix was a fey welds on the pedal brace/bracket. it was a cheap exercise put cost me a few days off the road messing around with it all. I have since been told this is very common problem with nissan clutch pedals. I guess thats why nismo sell a reinforced aftermarket one. Just my two cents. Hope it helps someone in someway. Cheers!

Cefiro have a unique sway bar design. similar to s13 but won't work because of the RB sump. only one company i know of makes them. www.selbys.com.au Also the front strut brace are unique. skyline wont fit-different bolt pattern i think and neither will s13-slightly different distance between struts.

poncams. 2585= 256 duration, 8.5mm lift I am pretty sure I have the same markings on my poncams. I will double check.

Thanks for the reply! I will use the head and Poncams I have and get a new gasket set. My manifold should be ok as the noise was the exhaust on rough start-up. Didn’t hear anything in the engine bay. But I’ll have everything inspected anyway. Can anyone recommend a shop to do the labour for me? I'm on the gold coast. So what’s needed is: take of my head and replacing it with the fresh one and new gaskets/seals? Is $800 about the ball park figure? How hard is it to do it myself?

I took my Ceffy for a bit of a spin last night. Ran fine but before I parked it up for the night I noticed it developed what sounded like a miss. I have just done plugs bout 1000k's ago. Went to start her up this morning and sounded like a motorbike/lawnmower and I thought coil pack maybe. Pumped the throttle twice while running and it blew a heap of what appeared to be steamy smoke out of the exhaust then idled ok but still with the miss characteristics. I shut her down and checked my oil level which was down a little but no milk in the oil cap and then check coolant only to find it had turned to a milkshake. Correct me if I am wrong, but this sounds like head gasket to me and coolant is leaking into a cylinder hence the rough start up (trying to compress and burn water) and oil has got into my coolant. Can someone please confirm what might be happening here? Can I please have some advice on what I should be doing next to start fixing the problem? Also what sort of costs will I be looking at? As a side note, my brother has a fully reconditioned head sitting in amongst our parts, minus cams and gears. I have the stock gears and HKS gears, Poncams and cam covers sitting there also as well as full gates racing belt kit including timing belt. This is my first real engine failure and I am really stressed about it especially since I was made redundant a week ago. Any help is highly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

I would also like some info on this. What are the pro's and cons of bigger cooler piping? i.e less restriction? more lag? etc And I really want to know what are pro's and con's of bigger throttle body? Sorry if these are dumb questions. I havnt experimented with this yet so i'm quite interested in some info/opinions about it. Cheers all!

It’s a metal gasket with rubber on either side. The rubber will probably be pretty worn out so if you must take the plenum of to get to the injectors I would probably recommend replacing it. The genuine Nissan item is about $80! Get yourself a plazmaman item as I think they are bout $30 or so and have special high temp resistance and so on...

Yes I know what a surge tank is for. I understand what you are saying but I have been assured you wont need one with this setup. Here is a 'quote' from an email from Rick at EFI "We recommend you look into an extra external pump we use and recommend (pier berg) high volume fuel pumps which are a draw and push pump capable of 350L per minute @ 3bar where the bosch 044 external is only a push pump and with its expensive fittings ect they are rated at only 200L per min @ 5bar." "We have used these pumps on over 40cars now and are really taking off, they can be used with C16, methanol and are also E85 user friendly where the bosch pumps are not." Like i said, I reccommend speaking to the EFI guys. They are really helpful and great to deal with. Any love for the PierBurg?

Speak to EFI performance. Pierburg external fuel pump. No need for surge tank.

Sorry to stray off topic. I have to agree with Fat Tony. I have RB25DET, 3" full exhaust w/gutted cat, FMIC, pod, CAI(partially blocked due to r&r) and Blitz DSBC spec R, Stock turbo and actuator. No problems at all with spiking. Just had to adjust the gain on the boost controller and away we go, quick, smooth 10psi all the way to 7000rpm. Sounds like your problem was something like crappy boost controller maybe? Anyway back to topic. My advice would be to check with matty what his thoughts are. he is very good at what he does, probably the best tuner around these parts, from what i am told. But, as everyone said, sounds like actuator. Also as far as boost controllers go, get either an electronic one with dual solenoid of one of those Turbotech Boost Controllers I read so much about here at SAU. I am thinking by using an electronic controller with gain setting features, that increasing the gain might mask your problem but then may cause boost spiking. Thats my 2 cents! Hope it helps in some way!

DICKMAN!! wats crakin? what parts you got man? i need bits pieces! hook a brother up maaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaate!

good to hear! any info needed? just ask! This place is a plethora of knowledge. Happy modding!

+1 Cant wait to see more results! I will be getting a high-flow done with tao so always good to see recent R&D

A solenoid is the electronic sensor that mesures the actuator pressure vs compressor pressure (and manifold pressure for some aftermarket makes) and decides wether or not to bleed boost in order to control boost. All of our RB's use them standard from factory as well as many, many other cars/engines I know of. you may just want to take it to a dyno shop/tuner, throw it on the dyno and have a real look at whats going on with everything. I am sure anyone you take it to wil be able to help you in some way. Not expensive either, I think its usually about $60-$80 for a power run and check A/F ratio's etc... Not to mention these people deal with these sorts of problems for a living on a daily basis. Sorry dude's, I dunno what else may help you?

Yes exactly my point. Thanks for the support Sparks, I really appreciate it. Geez... I wasn't looking for a personal attack with my "race" comment. I was merely using it as an example in an attemp to empathize with other people on this forum who have the same issue. I agree that there is a time and place for race meets and so-on but, in my defence, can anyone here honestly say they have never had a street race or been a 'hoon' in some way, at some point in their driving life? And please do not generalise with the 'young hoon' comment. You were all my age once.... If I had a dollar for every person who is not in my age bracket, that pulls up next to me revving their engine in their Commodores and Falcons or the ones in their Patrols, LandCruisers and utes who think they own the road all because they are late for work.... I am trying to make a point about car enthusiest shunning car enthusiest and what do I get? Anyway, sorry for straying off topic. Beelzebub89, sounds good. Harbourtown carpark? Plenty of spaces. Maccas right there and plenty more accross the road(i.e Subway, Bigchiefs, sushi etc..) Also a bus stop! Whats your thoughts, everyone?

LOL! And a high-flowed crumpet Those damn pommies...

Excellent thanks dude, much appreciated.

Nah mate I’m a born and bred coaster and there seems to be a pretty hostile attitude/mentality between performance enthusiasts’ on the goldy. (Let alone between ppl in general...) every time a have a race with someone, If I beat them they either drop right back and avoid me or turn off or if they beat me I pull up next to them at the next set of lights, window down ready to have a chat about what they are running under the hood etc. but they just sit there all smug like they just ran a 9sec pass or some shit or if their window is down they put it up!(except one fellow Ceffy driver and an EvoVII) and I hate to discriminate but It seems to be more the SR/PS13/RPS13 drivers I believe its this mentality that results in the lack of interest on the Gold Coast. Why the attitudes? We all love the same thing so why can't we all just get along? Anyone else share this view?

Thats all I needed to hear. Thanks mate muchly appreciated.

I have to agree with you completely! I love Anime nearly as much as the cars scene and this is friggin awsom. Gotta respect the Japanese culture. I love it!

this is something i have always wonderd about. Every car i have ever owned has done this (Mazda 323, 626, Honda Accord, Mitsubishi Cordia, C32 Nissan Laurel) . However when I first buy a car I have noticed its not so bad if not at all. But I have always let my cars warm up from between 3-6 minutes or more depending on the time of year and its seems that the car/engine seems to get used to this condition and routine of warm up. Can anyone else relate to this?

Why is it that you 'nistune' people have to hi-jack everyone's topics and crap on with your rlentless speel about how superior nistune is. I DO NOT WANT TO USE NISTUNE! I am sick of myself having to justify my reasons for this. This is why i said at the start 'I dont wanna hear about stand alone's and blah bla blah'. If you don't have an answer for the qustions I have ask then dont post. By the way, have a good look around and you can get Haltech Platinum Pro Plug-in for RB's for $1800. Why spend nearly the same money on a PFC or anything else really? No it isn't. You may want to have a look into it. Its about $800-$900 as far as i am aware. I have my reasons for wanting to use haltech. How do you know i'm not chasing 600rwhp down the track? Any love for Haltech? As I have said, I am on an absolutely tight, shoestring budget just to live and get by. I need my car running o.k so I can still get to work and earn my shoestring wage, without the excessive fuel bill every 4-5 days hence why i am using the neo. My complete stage a tuning will not be performed for some time and i simply can't justify spending anymore that I already am. On top of this my fornt end is fairly smashed up so i need to focus on saving for paint&panel work to avoid getting undesired attention and its comming up to big service time i.e timing belt&tensioners, water pump etc. and the list goes on. I will install the AFC myself so, $300 for the neo, say $250 for tune=reliable car to get from A-B. The money I could have spent on a 'nistune' will go on servicing, brakes and rego, once again, to keep the car safe, reliable and legal(as much as possible). There i go, trying to justify to people why I have made these decisions. So how about we stay on topic?.....

LOL! I hear ya mate, I hear ya!

Are you serious? Becasuse you have no idea what my future mods entail. Why spend $800+ on a nistune now only to hav to do it all again when I finish my upgrades? Now i've wasted 10 minutes of my day having to justify why I dont want to hear opinions about 'how wrong it is to use an SAFC'. each to their own 'eh. And i'll have you know I scored the neo for $300 of a mate. I will be able to recoup most if not all of that down the track...