RBceffy25

Yea sorry, no harm intended. Just a bit frustrated that I had explained the tyre thing at the start however no one seemed to be willing to understand what i had explained. All good mate. Just had sand in my vagina As far as i understand, axle tramp is usually related to the whole rear subframe jumping up and down, smashing all its related components apart. Sound like your issue was directly related to excessive movement in your rear lower control arms, probably due to previous axle-tramping. I think this may have been a great learning experience for all involved. In any case good luck with it all and i hope it all works out for you. Happy modding! By the way, Let us know what happens when you bolt on your new turbo and start making some more grunt as I would be very interested to see wether or not the problem rears its ugly head again.

Ok excellent, Thanks for that info. So let me get this straight, I only need a wideband kit if I am tuning myself or the tuner doesn't have one?, in which case I wouldn't go to that tuner as you would expect a good tuner to have all that anyway. I don't really believe in playing with my cars tuning without the proper training/experience so I will be using an experienced tuner anyway, probably someone like Matty Spry, EFI or Gavin Wood.

Any body? C'mon simple questions

As the title says I need a tuner in the gold coast area to tune the AFCneo i have just purchased and also do i need wideband 02 sensor and controller or just the sensor? (sorry if thats a dumb question, i dont know much about this) I dont wanna hear about how i should have spent my money on a stand alone ECU. This will come later (in the form of a haltech ) This is a temporary solution to sort out the excessive fuel consumption and inconsistent performance of my daily driver. Cheers! in advance for any advice!

Yea so basiclly everything I tried to explain at the start.

I understand your frustration but, did you not check the work upon paying for it? I don't know about you but I will not pay for something if its not up to scratch If you go into a resturant and find a fly in your meal would you just eat it, then pay for it and then say 'dont go there'?

Cheers huddy!

standard cams, as far as i have seen, have paint markings on them like yellow dots or maybe they are orange? I cant exactly remember the specifics but yea. Aftermarket cams should have the profile specs on the ends. hope this helps.

Sweet as, i think i'll just leave it alone and as you said, take out the fuse if im on track or somthing. At the end of the day my intention with the ceffy is for a streeter so probably best left as is. The only other thing that bothers me is that the ABS unit sits right above the turbo/dump and when hard driving is applied i tend to lose a bit of stopping power, i would say, from the brake fluid being overheated. I have a makeshift heatshield in place, which seems to work ok but maybe a more permanent shield is needed if i'm to keep the system. on a side note I use tein HA coilovers that came fitted on the car from japan

Do you have it? Its seems to be a rather shitty system or mybe mine is faulty? When i hit bumps on the road while braking the ABS has a tendency to kick in and then off again making it quite annoying. This happens when under braking and the driven wheel(s) skip off the ground when on a bumpy surface, causing a bit of slip in the diff or something and (i assume) the ABS computer reads this as high speed or hard braking braking and jumps into action when i dont want it to. I like to be in full control of my cars functions but the ABS seems do have a bit of a mind of its own at times. I have all the gear to do the conversion including braided lines etc. I have also just been informed that there may be some legalities involved if i remove this. Is this the case? If I keep the abs will it work with the hubs and calipers i have? Or do I need ABS compatible hubs or something? While on this toppic, What the difference with the ABS diff? I have been told its longer but will this affect my decision to put a shimmed, 4.11:1 R33 center in it?

Do you have it? Its seems to be a rather shitty system or mybe mine is faulty? When i hit bumps on the road while braking the ABS has a tendency to kick in and then off again making it quite annoying. This happens when under braking and the driven wheel(s) skip off the ground when on a bumpy surface, causing a bit of slip in the diff or something and (i assume) the ABS computer reads this as high speed or hard braking braking and jumps into action when i dont want it to. I like to be in full control of my cars functions but the ABS seems do have a bit of a mind of its own at times. I have all the gear to do the conversion including braided lines etc. I have also just been informed that there may be some legalities involved if i remove this. Is this the case? If I keep the abs will it work with the hubs and calipers i have? Or do I need ABS compatible hubs or something? While on this toppic, What the difference with the ABS diff? I have been told its longer but will this affect my decision to put a shimmed, 4.11:1 R33 center in it?

Cheers, will do. Anyone got any answers?

Heya! I am about to do an R33 brake conversion and Ichiba 5-stup upgrade on all four corners of my ABS equipped Cefiro. I would prefer to remove the whole ABS system to reduce weight, increase engine bay space and just generally tidy up excessive line etc. What is the correct way to do this? Or do I just leave it alone all together?

HOLY SHIT!

hence the 'laufiro' conversion Yuk!

Heya! I am about to do an R33 brake conversion and Ichiba 5-stup upgrade on all four corners of my ABS equipped Cefiro. I would prefer to remove the whole ABS system to reduce weight, increase engine bay space and just generally tidy up excessive line etc. What is the correct way to do this? Or do I just leave it alone all together?

By the way to have them rebuilt will set you back between $150-$300 per stick. pretty cheap when compared to the price of newbies and they come back just like new again! Throw in some extra dosh and have softer springs added. And Wallah! I had my front Tein HA's done. they were leaking and shit so cost $600. They came with the car from Japan so, yea.

Hey usmair! Got a dyno sheet dude?

cant remember off the top of my head. ask Tao from hypergear or check the site maybe. he knows all the specs. I should of mentioned that the high-flow i am referring to is with either a VG30DET or RB25DETNEO turbo (OP6).

i doubt this is the case but, if you bought the car like this check if there is a block-off plate between the BOV and intake pipe? as i said, you wouldn't think there is as why would someone go to the expense of fitting an aftermarket bov only to block it off. Just a suggestion.

I would have to say, bang for buck, go a hypergear high-flow, G3 profile and power-up option. Good for around 280rwkw+. Go to the Hypergear site and also the Hypergear thread on here (SAU) and check out some dyno printouts and compare them to other similar setups. As far as useable power go's - for a street application - they are pretty hard to beat when you consider response and all that stuff. Also, considering they are a thrust bearing CHRA they spool nearly or just as quick as the garret equivelant (GT 3071). The proof is in the dyno read outs. They will never hold power to redline due to the Nissan housing(s) used, however, used in conjuction with R33 box and diff ratio's i can see this kind of set-up being very formidable on the street (outright power is not always everything) Otherwise if you have deep pockets go a HKS (like a GT-RS or GT-sports kit) or Trust (something like a TD06S-20G). I have seen some very responsive results with these turbos on dyno sheets.

for road use and drivability it might be hard to go past the Tein super streets. Not to mention they have excellent customer support in AUS.

No worries eh. I only mention this as I have read Nissan tie-rods are typically a weak piont. Havn't actually experience a failer myself though... good luck with it all dude!

Dude, before you go in and play with the pineapples, fork out for a set of solid subframe mounts and have them fitted at the same time. They are not very expensive (around $80 depending where you go) and this should help with the problem. Get a set from any good local Jap parts store. These are the little, flat, circular, disc looking things in my earlier posts. Like I explained, its the buld up of energy (when the driven wheels start to spin) through the springs, shocks and then bushes that winds up in the soft, rubber bushes then this energy is released in the form of axle tramp. Then once it starts it becomes self generating through this winding up of energy process.

Ahh its been a while. Sorry eh, I ran out of money and work went to shit so I havn't done anything about it yet. Also haltech have released version 1.06 with new features added. I havn't heard or read of anyone having dramas with these haltechs yet nor do i expect to see any as all I hear and see are good things bout them. Can anyone recomend EFI Performance with Haltech experience?