chrisR34GTT

I would have to agree with PROXIMITY, especially considering that you are running 12psi of boost through a NEO turbo. They are only good for 10-11psi, as shown in a thread on R34 turbos. Have you had a look at the condition of the turbo itself to see if there is any damage to the wheels or housing?

@ MP_R33 I had the same problem with my 34, so I took my snorkel to a plastic welder and had a go at modding it (cost $60). It isn't the best job but hey at least it doesn't have hot air from the engine bay going directly into the airbox and still have that stock look. I will try and get some pics up.

Will injectors fit an R34 neo fuel rail?

SMS and PM sent lol

PM sent on injectors and turbo.

Scott, I opted for a 0.63 IW as from what I read the 0.82 IW would be slightly laggier and more suited to a setup that would have more headroom for power later on. But seeing as I'm comfortable (at least for the interim) with 250rwkw I thought 0.62 would be ideal? Is there any other way to get around boost control issues without sacrificing response? In regards the choice of kits I had thought HKS kits would be right out of my limit budget wise and checking Nengun like you said shows that a GTRS kit will set me back $3K and a quote for a GT3071r kit (without intake and boost pipe) was $2K. So I would definitely like to stick with the GT30. Now another option that I could take again would be the GCG high flow option. I have heard that these should see 250rwkw with great response but no one has been able to tell me the specs of the turbine or compressor wheel, other than one is steel and the other is larger respectively. Now one of these is $2K, is this a better option? Disco?

Hi guys, I've read through the thread after deciding that I want to do an GT3071R upgrade to my R34, with the aim of achieving 250rwkw of street responsive power. Current mods: 3inch exhaust fmic boost controller 550cc injectors z32 afm nistune From my research this is the turbo I have spec'd up. Please let me know if I am on the right track as this is all new to me. Turbine : GT30 84 trim (60.1mm inducer diametre by 55mm exducer) . Compressor : 71.1mm 56 trim . Compressor Cover: Not too what I should do here??.. Inlet 2.75" 0.5AR, Inlet 4" 0.5AR, Inlet 4" 0.6AR port shrouded (what does each do? Is 0.6AR available?) Cartridge number : 700177-23 . Exhaust Housing: 0.63 IW (also mentioned by cubes that Garrett also provide a larger internal gate off the shelf??), 0.78 extude honed or 0.78 twin scroll v-band. What are the last two exactly?

bump must be someone out there that has some nismo, sard or blitz injectors? also after a turbo upgrade kit, high flows or a 3071r good for 250rwkw.

17.4psi before 3k? That sounds ridiculous, I mean my stock R34 turbo only hits full boost (10.5psi) at about 3200rpm and I thought stock turbos are the some of the most responsive turbos out there... Is my turbo laggy or something?

bump

I own a white 34 coupe and I have mates that own a 32 and a 33. I suggest you blokes join up to qldstreetscene.com as that is where all the local enthusiasts keep in contact. You are right, there are plenty of imports getting around the ville these days. Thursday nights at the breakwater is usually a good meeting point

bump got the fuel pump, still chasing injectors and z32 afm.

As above. Would like injectors to be drop in's. Reply or PM me.

I know you mentioned to budget $150 for freight, however you want to find out a definite price and PM it to me if you are still willing to ship.

Great thread here mate! I am in the same situation, where I have a Jap Kenwood headunit that only plays audio cd's and no radio. So this thread will prove invaluable once I get around to starting. Goodluck and keep with the updates. Oh and are you planning on installing a sub and amp at all?

The problem is too hard to describe and I didn't want to confuse people, working back from the fact that disconnecting the battery sort of resets the boost controller seemed like a logical direction? Sorry for the confusion though mate. Ok so I checked the wiring and it is all perfect (wires match up to installation guide, soldering appears solid). Now I have no experience with electronics so could someone explain to me how I you check the car is earthing correctly. I take it I will need a multimeter? And make it real simple like for me if you could lol And if that turns out to in working order how would I check to see if the a/m solenoid is working correctly? Thanks!

FYI - you will have your thread deleted if you bump within 3 days mate. But yeah get some pics up!

I wasn't actually alluding to the ecu being the problem, merely that reseting it gets the unit up and running again... Ok, so the terminating of the power to the boost controller what could that be doing, I have a feeling that my ignition earth (if thats what is called) is not working and that might be causing the problems. So therefore the method of reseting the ecu, by draining the remaining charge/current it is able to function again. And I am not sure what you mean "by does the metre the stock boost levels or..?" If you mean am I running stock boost, no I'm running about 10-11psi. Lastly, the unit isn't faulty as I sent it back to HDi for analysis and sent it back claiming it is 100% operational... If disconnecting the battery fixes the issue, then the problem is purely electrical right? That leaves the wiring and solenoid?

Ok so i am still having problems with my boost controller but rather than trying to describe the problems I am having I thought I would describe how I am making it work (temporarily that is). The unit is a hdi evolution d with electronic boost gauge and car is an R34 manual coupe. Now if I reset the ecu (disconnect negative battery terminal and switch headlights on for a few minutes, turn them off and hook it up again) the boost controller will work fine when I drive it, but once I turn the car off and leave for a long period of time, say overnight, it won't work the next time I start the car up and I have to reset the ecu again... Now my question is, what is occuring when you reset an ecu and moreover what in particular could this be doing to the boost controller? Honestly the car drives great when the unit is working but it is becoming an absolute pain the rear to have to continuously reset the ecu that I am tempted to just get a different unit.

^^ +1, also considering getting these for my 34

Willing to post? 4811 qld

I picked up a clean '98 model R34 GT-t manual coupe for $17800 from Atomu Watanabe, has a business on the sunny coast called Japanese Auto Work Shop (JAWS) where he imports through Phoenix Imports if I remember correctly.

Please PM me when ER34 Neo version becomes available! Cheers

Hahaha f*$kin cats and dogs aye! Well the car has been repaired and just needs a wheel alignment, which I am going to hold off doing until I get my teins and rims . All up cost me $225 for the control arm, $100 bucks for my dads mate (mobile mech) to replace it and $1880 for the panel repair (also had the front of my car where my missus sister reversed into it fixed). So happy with the panel repair done by City Crash Repairs in Townsville, car looks new! I rocked up and the car was polished (and clay barred), wheels cleaned up and the interior vacuumed. Great service highly recommended guys!

free bump Pedro. Goodluck with the sale.