fungoolie

Great! You can pick up their luggage but have to leave your friends at the airport!

I was asked to sign a basic disclaimer when I signed the contract but then they sprung a more onerous one on me when I went to take delivery. I refused to sign the second one as I already had a contractl. So you do NOT have to sign this to take delivery as they would be breaching the contract by attempting to change the Ts and Cs after the contract was signed. In fact you are in an even better position than I was as it appears they haven't made you sign anything yet! You think they would have learnt from their previous experience with the 09s and not been so slack making this disclaimer available earlier.. This one you've attached is even more "draconian" than the one they wanted me to sign. I'm surprised they don't void the warranty if you fart in the car because the increased cabin temp may prevent the dissipation of excess exhaust heat causing the rear muffler to melt! The only area they appear to have backed off on is in the brakes. With the 09s they insisted that even if one axle's pads needed to be changed then you had to change 4 rotors and all pads! I suspect they got bitten by this one with some pads cracking through no fault of the owner and it was costing Nissan more than they would recoup from brake replacement as part of normal maintenance. MInd you now they've got a bet both ways. It's up to Nissan's discretion whether or not just pads can be changed. Very clever wording no doubt to allow them to suit themselves as they see fit. You are correct that if you want to maintain warranty if you track the car you must carry out the pre and post inspections and you are not warrantied in between those inspections. All up I'm still very dissappointed with the attitude of Nissan compared with a company such as Porsche who actively encourage their owners to track their cars and maintain full warranty before during and after as long as the car shows no evidence of obvious "abuse". And I still am not 100% sure why Nissan lower fluid levels such as engine oil and brakes before the track day.....Has anyone asked them?

So they get you two transmitters for the same price as you can get them from OS and then they slug you $800 just to code them!!! ( I presume you are talking about two of them as that's what I'm talking about for $250). This is for something that should take them all of 30 minutes. That just plain robbery. GT-R tax strikes again .... Can this work be done on any Consult III or do you need the "authorised dealer" codes?

You can land a couple transmitters here for $250 direct from the US but what will Nissan charge you to code them especially if you dont buy them through them? Can anyone with a Consult III do that for you?

+1 please Tirerack shipping was ~$200 for two and $250 for four when I last checked. Even for bridgestone fronts youd be up for $1000 for two fronts or $1850 for four at a 1:1 exchange rate. I'd like to find a cheap shipper for two tyres only so I can get in under the $1000 limit. And check the Tirerack website. 20" Advans now available $321 Fronts $337 Rears. Hopefully Yokohama doesnt get nasty like Dunlop...

I'm running non run flats at the moment. Definitely a smoother ride but forget the idea of extra grip unless you spend just as much as the RFTs. Mind you when you do 25,000 kms a year the savings are significant..... And as for us in SA it pays to use the TIRERACK. We dont have discount suppliers like you guys in Sydney so we'd have to pay for freight from NSW plus still have to pay someone else here to fit them.Locally we still pay more than $1000 a tyre. Dealing with the TIRERACK has been a dream. A friend just bought some 17" Advan semi slicks from them and saved a bundle so it's not just on very expensive tyres that savings can be had, . I'm totally pissed off Dunlop is fighting to save their monopoly. They'll be joining Gerry Harvey soon and having a right old whinge about GST next..... Time to look at getting a container load in guys.... Oh and its not just Tyres, musical instrument manufacturers have been cracking down on internet trade as well in the past 18 months because we were getting in stuff at half the price of what we pay here........ I thought we had a FTA? And in reply to Zebra, have you ever considered that the reason the OP can afford a $200,000 car is because he looks for savings in everything he spends money on?

GST is only payable if the price of the goods EXCLUDING shipping is over $1000. If so then GST applies to the price INCLUDING shipping....

Did they give you a talking to for passing under brakes Seb? I know that GT3 RS and it's not exactly standard as well!

Would've liked to come out to Martin's today but had to load in and set up for our gig at the Highlander tonight. I will make it soon though! I currently have next weekend off. Cheers David

Hi Slip, Can't remember the guys name but when he came out to tell me if I'd won one of the spots he said that if I needed transport of the car he could arrange it through their own carrier. I was in front of Ziad when he said it. I ended up opting for Program 2 in the end. Also have a look at the attachment. Look 5 lines down in the overview. Bit ambiguous I know but implies that they will do it but at your cost. It's almost saying you HAVE to do it through them! My thoughts went along the same lines as Handbrake in the end. It's not really a 2 day event, just from 4PM to 4PM and track time is minimal..... Plus on top of that you have to go through the whole rigmarole of pre and post track day inspections etc etc. If I'm going to drive PI I'd prefer to do a PIARC 2 day sprint event only costing $340 for the two days with heaps more track time and it's not during the working week.....

If this is for the Nissan Drive days in March I know that the dealers are offering transport to PI so hopefully their regular carriers would know how to take enough care with your car.

Impressive numbers for just an exhaust and tune. Good work!

Munro. We must arrange a cruise soon.......

Go Slip! God Munro, you and you're fixation on the MFD resolution! At least all those japanese characters will appear razor sharp when you're trying to decipher them fanging around Mallalla while you're shouting TAI YAH!!! because you want to get your tyre pressures screen up and you can't get to it using the touch screen

In South Aust it's even simpler than that. If you can't establish or remember who was driving the car, the owner cops the fine and points full stop. It's in the legislation. And as far as your plead goes, basically you are happy to cop the full punishment, (even greater fine than the max penalty based on what you've written). Honestly, it really couldn't have hurt defending yourself at least a little. Like you said earlier, when the magistrate has seen wife beaters and druggies all day, surely someone who can't remember an incident with a covert camera photographing him when he's just driving along a couple weeks before he gets a notice in the mail and HONESTLY stands up before a court asking them to prove he was actually doing the wrong thing is not going to get you hanged.... Sorry to say I think you rolled over way to easily....

They don't take more than one photo. You're confusing this with red light cameras.

+1 for Beer Baron for Aussie Motorist Advocate! I only wish some of our politicians had such a logical and well thought out approach to stating the bleeding obvious. And as for the sanctimonious attitude of some on this thread towards those who actually believe some laws are created for the WRONG reasons, please take a look in your own backyard first. There's something to be said about making your words sweet and it's a sure fire way to end up with egg on your face when you do finally come unstuck as all of us inevitably do at some point in time. If you're on this forum it probably means you have an illegally modified vehicle. Lets face it, remapping an ECU to anything other than stock is illegal for gods sake. Just because you don't raise suspicion and get police attention due to driving like your grandma doesn't mean that you're still not breaking the law.

I'd join you if you were in Adelaide! Far too much work lately and not enough GT-R seat time!

Had a good look at my exhaust the other day and noted that the exit from the first cats is 70mm OD narrowing down to 54 mm at the bellows/flex joints and into the resonator and then emerging from the resonator back at 70mm OD. My question is this, if you have no intention of changing the rear system what is the point of going to, (say), a 76mm primaries midpipe exiting at 90mm when the following pipe is just 70mm? Ive seen some pipes advertised at 76mm at both ends which is closer but still not a match for the stock system. If I bought a 90mm exit midpipe would it pay for me to taper the outlet down to 70mm internally or grind the rear flange out so I don't have a 10 mm step/edge in my system to cause turbulence etc? Are all these 76mm/90mm midpipes really designed for a big bore aftermarket system and would I be better off just making the midpipe 70mm all the way through if I plan on leaving all else stock? Also other than weight saving. What are the advantages/disadvantages of titanium over stainless? Im concerned about things like durability, heat radiation etc. And why doesn't anyone ceramic coat the titanium pipes for durability/heat insulation purposes? Weight being the primary reason I imagine? I'm not that fussed about 3 kgs but I would be if my pipe falls apart after 50,000 kms....

The effect of the increase in pressure is minimal compared with the effect of the cold air you are getting in. I recently saw an analysis on it and the pressure increase at ludicrous speed is the equivalent of the air density increase as a result of a drop of only a degree or so in temp. On top of all that you only get to tap this effect at highly illegal speeds. By all means grab cold air at a point that does not have negative pressure but don't bother going far out of your way to try and increase the intake pressure..... And agree with Turbo X-Trail. The MAF doesn't care where or how the air is sourced. It simply reads rate of the mass of the air flowing through it....

But is the price "guaranteed"? All sales contract for new vehicles have the clause that if there is a price rise the dealer has the right to pass it on and you also have the right to cancel the contract. This appears to be the current model price so perhaps this is all you've been offered in the absence of news on the new price?

Why would they remove the tailshaft at the first service?

Repairable write off is when the cost to repair is greater than the insured (agreed or market) value less the salvage value. Clearly why spend (say) $60K (properly) repairing a $100K car when you can sell the wreck for (say) $50K and pay the owner out the balance of $50K on top of the $50K you got for it to fix him up with a new one... If you guys estimate it would sell for between $60-$80K then it would have cost the insurer more than $100K to fix it if a new replacement one cost it $180K on road because ultimately the insurer will be out of pocket $100K if it sells the wreck for $80K. Call it what you will, repairable or stat writeoff. They only called it repairable because it's still structually sound. I don't think you'll see this thing repaired unless it's done by dodgy brothers...or sells for $30K. But it won't because of the spare parts value alone. I agree with Chris. It's getting stripped. Spare trans and motor anyone?

Stock's between 11.6 and 11.8 quarter time and 0-100 around the 3.7 mark in LC2 cars.

For all of you with daily drivers. What wheel alignment settings are you all running and how low does your camber adjusting bolts allow you to set the camber? I cannot adjust my front or rears to less than 1.5 deg neg camber which is just on the lower limit of the specs but still find my inside edges wearing significantly faster than the middle and outer edges. I see that the specs allow a lot of toe in especially on the rears and this may compensate somewhat but how will the turn in and responsiveness be affected if I push the rear toe in to ~5 mm in? HAs anyone thrown away tyres that DON'T have the inside edges chewed out? Are there any kits/bolts available that will allow me to set the cambers to between -0.5 to -1 deg? My gut tells me that around -0.75deg should do the trick but my bolts are turned to their limits with nothing more to be gained. I currently get between 17K and 23K out of a set of tyres but believe I could start getting 25-30K if I made full use of my rubber.