hossboss

Well an oil swap it is then! (again). Bugger, it wasn't the most fun task either... As for double clutching, it's a habit I've had for years, and definately makes for smoother progress (something I like to achieve when driving in general), especially when your givin' it the berries The grinding kinda kills the mood, as far as wanting to press on (I have mechanical sympathy)

First of all I just want to say thanks to everyone helping me out here with info and advice - I'm taking it all in! I'm just wondering what the next step should be. Would a cost effective short term option be to drop the oil and replace with different (thicker viscosity) oil? As for the spigot bearing/bush, do you have to rip the whole 'box apart to get at it, or is it possible to throw a new one in relatively easily? I really don't want to have to drive around the problem, as it is just too bloody irritating, and ruins the driving experience! I could always go the frowned upon lucky dip secondhand box option...as I mentioned, cost effectiveness is paramount in whatever I do...

Kind of ironic that trying to do good (changing oil), can actually cause more bad! Kind of wish that I didn't f**k with it now... I used Nulon 75W - 85 Smooth Shift (!) manual gearbox and transaxle oil for the change. I did some research and this seemed appropriate. Ah well...

It seemed to really appear AFTER I did a gearbox oil change, although I used to have to change in a particular way so that the gear-change was nice and smooth before the oil swap. Any idea why 4th synchro would be worn in-particular?

Hey guys. I've got a 1990 GT-R and have a problem. Unless I change at lowish revs (around 3000rpm or lower), or really baby the gear change, I get grinding going into 4th gear. Every other gear seems ok, although I haven't driven any other GT-R's so can't compare the feeling. Seems odd to have a prob going into 4th, since it's probably not an overly tortured selection - 1-2 for example would be more stressed I would think. Maybe it needs a bleed, or some adjusting? Is this overly difficult? I like to have a go at most things if possible to save on the wallet... If anyone can shed some light I would be most appreciative

Hey guys. I've got a 1990 GT-R and have a similar problem. Unless I change at lowish revs (around 3000rpm or lower), or really baby the gear change, I get grinding going from 3rd to 4th gear. Every other gear combo seems ok, although I haven't driven any other GT-R's so can't compare the feeling. Seems odd to have a prob going 3-4, since it's probably not an overly tortured combo - 1-2 for example would be more stressed I would think. If anyone can shed some light I would be most appreciative

I haven't called them up to find out to be honest, but you can bet it would be a rude amount. I just thought I would find generic boots somewhere, but maybe not? Looks like it's going to be a bitch to install them too. Has anyone done this before - inner/outer front CV boots?

I've had no luck with Autobarn/Supercheap - even though the R32 GT-R was sold here, there's not even a listing for them in their books. Both also called suppliers, but to no avail. Might see if I can get some measurements, and see if I can get another model to fit like you have done.

I'm in the same boat as you mate. I was also curious whether there are less rudely priced generic replacements available - I have been looking around on the net, and tried the obvious Autobarn/Supercheap options, but to no avail...

Has anyone found an inexpensive source for the various driveshaft boots on a 32 GT-R?

Ah ball joints. Cool, no need to replace them then... Just a re-grease I suppose.

Thanks Gary, think I'll be investing in one then. I intend on doing more of this in the future, so it can't hurt. Can you recommend a brand/type of lower control bushes for an R32 GT-R? I've had a look around but just can't find the reliable info I'm after.

So I'll require a press to be able to change most bushes over? How many tonne pressure would you reckon?

Hi there... Now I'm only new when it comes to fiddling with suspension, and have also been informed that replacing the lower inner control arm bushes is a good idea on my 1990 R32 GT-R. Call me stoopid, but I'm just not 100% sure which ones would be the best for my street driven application? Cost is also a factor for me, so I'll be doing the job myself if at all possible - do I need a press for this to either remove or install the bushes? Cheers, Quentin

Confirmed with Autobarn that they DO in fact sell the GT-R specific ones - ordered the pair for $52 - sweet.

After some searching around I discovered Autobarn sell them - unless they got GTS-t and GT-R confused...? $60 for the pair.

I'm also chasing tie rod ends for a 32 GT-R. Just curious where I would find this set from the states for US$159?

Are R32 GT-R/GTSt tie rod ends the same, or are they different depending on the model?

Well I pulled the door to bits and tested everything, and the problem seemed to be shit in the motor connector. So it's happy days for now. Thanks guys but I don't think I'll need the window motor at this point

Ah ok. To be honest Im not 100% sure, as I'm yet to pull the trim off and test things, but when I hit the window switch either up or down, I can hear a slight clicking sound (relay?), so I'm guessing the switch is ok since I'm getting a response from each input. I will have a look tomoz, but if anyone can shed any light it would be appreciated

It's the drivers side. I didnt think it mattered?

Anyone got an R32 (or compatible) electric window motor lying around by any chance?

Does anyone know if you can just install a hicas lock bar with no other mods?

My R32 GT-R has the Hicas light on and wanders all over the place (due to the rear steering not playing ball I would suspect) at highway speeds. I am intending to rip it all out and throw a lock bar in there, however I was wondering whether I could just install the bar right now with no other mods? Would this stress out the pump or anything else (thats if its even pressurising the rear steering rack anyways!)? Basically after a quick fix for the meantime...

Job done! The back end anyways... Only took around 1.5 hours with basic tools and a little improvisation! Done with safety in mind as well, cheers Mr Baron Going to tackle the front next...