Hanaldo

Yes but you don't have to copy all of them. Just the ones that work, to give you a profile. Then you can fill the rest. It's not the easiest job, but it's not super hard either. For a production item like this it's always going to be better to find another one though, unless you want to make it in carbon fibre

You can actually ^ Not to make a mould, but given that piece of the lip is symmetrical, one can take a skin of the one side and flip it around to fit the other side. Works for things that are symmetrical and don't taper in a certain direction. If you haven't done fibreglassing before then I'd advise playing around with it before attempting to fix your bumper. You might be better off trying to find another one, but have a play with some fibreglass and resin and see how you go. That said, this isn't the hardest of repairs. Nor is it easy to explain. One way to do it would be to cover the drivers side of the lip with clear packing tape (make sure it's the polythylene stuff), then use EPOXY (polyester shrinks and the styrene will attack your paint if it is exposed, nasty stuff) and woven fibreglass cloth to make a skin of each individual bit. Break it down into the bits that you can flip and fit into place on the passenger side. I'd estimate it is likely to be 3 pieces, the inner piece on the left that is partially cracked, the piece that runs along the bottom edge of the bumper, and the piece the sits on the side of the bumper. Get me? Then you can cut the lip off where it is cracked so it is square, and bond on your new pieces. Then feather them in using body filler, before spraying high build primer to fill the final low spots. Easy right?

Dammit it took me so long to find this thread! Haha. I had forgotten it was a motorsport build, I was sitting in the normal builds section waiting for you to update Lovin' the plug in the signature by the way Nick Thanks mate Glad those bits came out well. Going to look good when I finish off this cooling panel. Looking at sometime next week I'd say, if I can get my garage warm enough for the resin to cure

Hey mate, No problem, I think Nick had told me that you were interested in a cooling panel. I will keep the template I made for his and see how it fits on yours with the different grill, shouldn't be hard to modify it. Also rad shroud should be easy enough. PM me or send me a message on Facebook and I can give you an idea on price

I only play on legendary. I'll pay more attention the next time I play. Bring on next gen PES

For anyone interested... https://m.facebook.com/UnzippedComposites?view=page

Hmmm... PS3 or PS4? Can't say I've ever noticed that happening... The dynamics change a lot with the weather, sure that isn't what is happening?

If you have blocked off your charcoal canister, make sure you have it venting somewhere. I just left mine open to atmosphere at the back, though can't say I highly recommend doing that, E85 being hydroscopic and all. Your fuel tank needs to vent though.

Negative, I have not. I don't investigate things that I'm not interested in.

Thanks guys. Got a couple other projects on the boil at the moment, I'll post them up when they look a bit more interesting.

I'm not, I just make sure I do my research and know what I need to know before doing something Composites are just infinitely interesting to me, so I never stop researching

Thanks guys The bond definitely has enough strength, that fitting isn't going anywhere. To be honest, I've probably completely over-engineered that. In case you're interested, the epoxy adhesive that I used, Araldite 2014, is a structural adhesive which by itself has a lap shear strength of 19Mpa, or 2755psi. Then in addition to that, I've used the fibreglass rovings in the grooves I cut into the fitting to help distribute the load, and the reinforcement (layer of fibreglass and double layer of carbon fibre) behind it will also help absorb and distribute load. Realistically, you would destroy the fitting well before you even overcame the strength of the adhesive let alone needed the laminate around it, but I like to be sure about these things I've PM'd you by the way mate

Agreed, definitely the best game I've ever played. Extremely disappointed I never got to finish it before my PS3 carked it, and not gonna get it on PS4 when I've already completed 95% of it. Would love to see a sequel though.

Thought I'd post some photos of it all fitted up too: Had to be careful not to strain my back putting it in Final weight including the fittings is 193 grams. To give you an idea, the original stainless 3" pipe (which was also 100mm shorter) weighed 775 grams.

It has been done, many times, just not so much with Skylines which does surprise me a little bit. If you're interested, PM me, I would be happy to make more for anyone interested.

Oh yeh for sure. Carbon fibre is a very poor conductor of heat, which is another benefit of using it as an intake pipe over metal ones.

Forgot to update this! I decided against the initial plan of bonding in a piece of 10mm aly flat bar as it proved too difficult to bend, instead decided to use a -10 Speedflow weld-on fitting which I scored and bonded in: I placed some woven fibreglass rovings into those grooves to help distribute any load placed on the fitting, then layed a piece of fibreglass over the top followed by an additional two layers of carbon fibre. The fibreglass is an important layer to separate the carbon and the aluminium, preventing galvanic corrosion. Then bonded the two halves together using structural epoxy adhesive: Cleaned it up a bit, then polished:

Fark those tyres must have cost a penny or two... I considered buying a pair of 16" wheels once, just to get away with paying for a smaller tyre. So many golds.

Thought about a Precision or Forced Performance HTA?

Regarding fuel hoses, teflon braided are a good idea but not necessary. IMO if you're spending an obviously large amount of money on your setup, what's another $200 for lines and fittings? Makes working on it a hell of a lot easier too. Regardless, there is one hose that is ABSOLUTELY necessary to change if you're going to be using E85, and that's your in-tank hose from your fuel pump to your fuel lid. Regular fuel hoses are only coated on the inside and generally work ok with E85; this hose needs to have the coating on the outside too. Gates Submersible is the stuff you want there. Don't use braided in-tank, the ethanol will eat the braid. The Walbro 460 is easy enough to fit, half hour job. The cradle will need a bit of modification as the pump is taller than the stock one, so you will need to cut off about an inch of the hard line to fit it in. I'd also recommend running larger gauge wiring direct to the pump, don't use the stock wiring harness. These pumps draw a lot of current and will melt your plug.

Hey Timmy, if you ever get the chance, I'd be interested to know how the readings on those Defi's compare to the readings the ECU gets? I've got 3 different water temp sensors and 3 different boost gauges, and every single one of them tells me something different

Actually the extension chord is off the table, I need that. 10 bucks, final offer.

10 bucks and an extension chord.

Muffler, boooooo Just joking mate, looks good! Vids or it sounds like a Lancer...

All depends on the materials you use, if you use polyester or vinyl ester resin then they will shrink and cause problems. Epoxy resin with woven cloth, you won't have issues. Bog will give you problems as well, it all shrinks. Basically if you're using anything with styrene, expect problems. Better off making a filler using epoxy resin and some sort of additive: microballoons, calcium carbonate, chopped fibreglass or carbon fibre strands, etc. OP, unlucky with the problems you've had. I know them feels all too well.