Hanaldo

This. Going into an engine rebuild with the idea of "it'll be cheap" is not how I would go about things... Not to mention you haven't properly identified what caused the damage in the first place. You're just making assumptions, so there's every possibility that you put this rebuilt motor back in with the same issues it had before and it just goes bang again.

Finally finished this today... I took a huge break given FIFA 12 came out shortly after. Still love these games, epic storylines Can't wait for the next one. My dad was over yesterday and recognized the game from when I used to play the original when I was like 10... Good work dad Possible spoiler question... What ending did everyone choose?? I had to go with Sarif's story. He is the boss

I wouldn't drive it anywhere

Lol no, it's a bitch of a job anyway. It gets easier the more you do it

I don't think you understand how a harmonic balancer works?

He's trolling for sure. Ask him if he will pay for the new engine after yours goes bang from detonation?

Wine red R33, female driver, on Reid Hwy right now. You're burning oil pretty bad, miss

La Bomba? Lol. Mate, if your car doesn't have ABS, I think it's important to learn how to stop properly. You can get on the brakes hard without locking up, you just need to know what to do.

This. SSQV = gayer than jizz on a moustache.

This. I hold 19psi rock solid from 3500ish to redline. Creeps a little bit to about 19.5 at around 5000rpm. But until you've sorted out all your other issues, forget about comparing your setup to others.

Ok, resisting the urge to make fun of you being a woman right now, I'll try to help I don't really understand your description of the first issue, so I'll leave that one alone. The second issue, the lagging, sounds like a misfire. Especially if it stopped after you turned the car off and on again. So did the car sound any different? Like a WRX sort of sound? I would be checking spark plugs. Potentially coilpacks as well but that's generally associated with high rpm misfires rather than low load. As for your last post... It doesn't sound like there is any actual issue there. Automatic cars will move as soon as you take your foot off the brake, that's the stall point of the torque converter. And turning the steering wheel in a car with power steering puts load on the engine, so the revs need to go up with it. Of course I may have completely misinterpreted your descriptions and I'm way off lol. If you could get a video of said problems then that may help

So put the PCV return on the opposite side of the steel pipe to the BOV return? On a 2" long pipe with 3" diameter, there will be plenty of space to have two nipples. A temporary option could be to block your bov for now and plumb your breathers into that nipple, at least then it would be somewhat driveable. May not work if the pipes are much different diameter though.

I... Don't understand lol. Why is there no where to weld into? Are you saying it's made of rubber? That's even easier then man, you simply do as Sarge suggested and buy a brass nipple, heat it up so it's nice and hot, then push it into the pipe. Very cheap, and makes it's own seal.

No no no, you're all wrong. He clearly doesn't have the PCV plumbed in correctly. OP, you need to unblock the PCV and plumb it back into the intake.

Don't drive the car then man. It's not just an inconvenience, that's dangerous as you've already discovered. Why is there nowhere to plumb it in, what intake pipe are you using? Just get a nipple welded onto the intake pipe and away you go, would cost like 50 bucks.

Oh... So you just left them open? Why not leave them with the factory setup until your catch can is ready? That's the same as leaving your filler cap off man. Fix that. It could cause a fire...

Yep. Also know the feeling of trying to work out a problem that seems so simple to others, and yet in the end has nothing to do with what anyone said. Chocco, not everyone here is an expert on cars, give the guy a break. Lilcrash, sorry if I missed it mate, but have you explained how you have your breathers plumbed in? I'm assuming you're using a catch can and it's not just the stock setup yeh?

Op, do try it and let us know how it turns out.

Ever thought he may have just been exaggerating and pulled a random number out of the air?

I would be comparing top speeds more than anything. Too much to compare between 1/4 mile times, but the speed trap will give you a fairly good indicator of power to weight etc. Again there's a few variables, but realistically it's a better comparison.

Dammit Zebra! Draw?

I thought it looks more like an FJ20ET?

I wouldn't. What happens when you do for some reason get a massive pressure drop across the system? Most people (with a Hypergear turbo at least) will use an actuator that is rated close to their turbo's maximum efficiency. But if your turbo is efficient to 20psi and you have an actuator that is rated to 20psi hooked up to the manifold, and you get a 5psi pressure drop, then all of a sudden your turbo will be trying to push 25psi, which could lead to super-heating of the intake charge or outright turbo failure. I would have the nipple as close to the turbo outlet as possible. Then at least if you get a pressure drop, you're just going to lose a bit of power and you will notice and get it sorted out.