Hanaldo

Leaning towards this also... However, if the losing all power after 5 minutes thing is still an issue, that doesn't seem like an actuator symptom. That sounds more like a restriction of some sort causing heat soak. I think the next step has to be trying a new actuator. If that is ruled put then you can start thinking of other possible causes, but right now it seems like the most probable cause.

Spotted at about 1:10pm, silver R33 on Ocean Reef Road with GTR wing; didn't get a good enough look to see if it was a GTR or a GTST. Had a SAUWA sticker in the right rear-quarter window

The actuator should be plumbed in off the turbo outlet, so it will hold x amount of psi at the turbo outlet. Theoretically that number should be the same as the pressure in your manifold, but only if everything else is working properly; boost leaks, pressure drop, restrictions, etc. will affect it.

Well that would've been awkward, considering the car in question is a Stag...

lilcrash, as others have said, check the actuator.

You would not notice the difference between the SS2 at 3000rpm and the SS1 at 3000rpm. Neither of them are at full boost yet. I wouldn't pick a turbo by it's off-boost drive-ability. You have a turbocharged car, you want to go fast then you want to be on boost. So if you're worried about going faster at low rpm, pick a turbo that has it's power band lower down. Worrying about 3 or 4kw off boost is silly. My opinion anyway.

+1 ^ Artz, I don't know what you're on about mate. Standard R34 GTT wheels are not baaaad looking, they may not be as eye catching as a nice set of Jap wheels but they still go alright. Especially when painted black. When they are unpainted they look like standard wheels. When they are painted, they do a good job of setting the car off. I mean this: Compared to this: It's a no brainer.

Lots of turbos use that housing, AR60 is just the size. Look on the exhaust housing, does it have OP6 stamped on it? That's the best indicator that it is the standard GTT turbo.

Woah Badass name, and badass nationality Welcome mate, my name is Martin and I'm from Kiefersfelden, Germany Awesome car mate, you should post some pictures up

There ya go I knew any decent graphics designer should be able to do it, I've had far more complicated designs than that made up as stickers

That's what I was after lol, thanks mate. Thinking about it, that's fairly obvious

There ya go then. I only did my fronts at the time, so wasn't sure if the rears would be more complicated. Out of interest, is there a difference between any of the Skyline rears vs fronts, or are the all pretty much the same???

DIY man. There's not a lot to a brake caliper. Hardest part would be the rears because of the handbrake assembly. But it's pretty much a few bolts holding the caliper halves together, remove the seals, bit of compressed air into the brake fluid galleries to get the piston out, remove the o-ring, wet and dry sandpaper to clean up the bore, replace the o-ring, lube up the new piston with some grease or new brake fluid, push it back in, reapply the seals, and you're done. Rinse and repeat. Took me about an hour.

Caliper rebuilds are easy as, could save some money...

Notsureifsrs....

Nup, that's how it's supposed to be, mine is the same. Works fine with NIStune.

What's wrong with NIStune?

When you spray, you shouldn't let the paint dry between layers. If it does, you need to sand it back to create a rough surface for the paints to mechanically bond. This will never be as strong as a chemical bond, which is where you let each layer dry to a tack before spraying the next layer. This means all the layers will dry together, creating a chemical adhesion that is much much stronger than just a mechanical interlock.

They didn't chemically bond the layers, and they didn't show or mention any mechanical bonding either, though they may have done that off camera. At 8:03, that spraying technique is terrible, he is spraying like a 14 year old graffiti artist. The other bloke has much better control and technique using the gun.

Why can a graphics designer not remake it?

This. It will be the fuse.

Rev limit is set to 7300, but it rarely sees that. Turbo rolls over after ~7000 anyway, so no point revving any harder.