Hanaldo

Racing seats... No thanks lol. Nah it's not that bad, I had a blast last year. The tent doesn't bug me that much.

Just keep in mind that there is absolutely zero chance of those rails fitting your car. So you will need to buy some Bride or Recaro rails as well, which are $500+ a set unless you can find them second-hand.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=search&do=search&fromMainBar=1 Counted 5 people with 2860-5's with over 320rwkw before I got bored... Search man, you're not the first person to use -5's.

I wouldn't have gone with the sanding between coats method, I believe you are mistaken in thinking that will be the strongest way. A mechanical bond will never be as strong as a chemical bond, the paint will scratch off easier the way you have done it. Anyway, too late now and it will probably be fine. Just a heads up. For the finish, you can get a matte clear coat as Rush said. Quite easy to use, should be available at most decent auto shops or at least a paint shop.

That was the plan. For a whole year I fumed about the sleeping conditions at last years event and planned to buy a new tent. And yet yesterday I unpacked the same tent to check everything is still there. Damn things cost money apparently

It was farkin cold and wet last year. Problem with fkn camping is my tent isn't water proof. If I touch any of the walls then water comes through. Unfortunately my tent is about as big as a large garbage bag, so it's quite impossible for me to not touch the walls... Looks like I'm in for a moist one again

I also lolled Lol yeh, there's not very many teenagers in Ellenbrook...

Hard suspension helps

Just get them to knock up an intake pipe and make any necessary modifications to the cooler piping while they are in there man. It's way easier that way, you don't have to worry about things not fitting or having to remove everything more than once. It's not a serious exercise.

I used a manometer to measure my pressure drop. There is really no need to have 2 gauges reading two different pressures, the hot side will always read slightly higher than the cool side.

I've got the Ark. Does what I want, I mostly use it to keep an eye on water temps while I'm tuning. Pros: looks good Works well Easy to use Has peak recall and warning functions. Cons: Small size makes it hard to see while driving. Need to hack the ECU wiring loom to install. Really all the things you listed are going to do the exact same thing, so just pick one you like the look of. If you're not too electrically savvy then I wouldn't recommend getting the Ark.

It does... Just not all of them It won't come with piping, you can't do that until the turbo is on. You'll need some modifications to the plumbing for sure.

Yeh this. I'd budget an extra $400-$500 or so. You may not need it, but I did. It's not a nice surprise when your tuner calls you up saying the turbo isn't going to fit, we need to do some custom piping. It's a better surprise to have $400-$500 left over from what you budgeted. My 2c anyway. Also, if your tuner is anything like mine... Don't do an oil change before you give them the car. I went and put my nice expensive oils through the engine and an oil filter, turns out it's tuner policy to do that whenever they do a turbo change. So $150's worth of oil and filter down the drain

With the iPad software... Is this compatible with Nissan CONSULT yet?? I know there is tonnes of OBDII support around, but hadn't found anything that will connect to CONSULT yet? Not that I've really been looking, I use NIStune myself. Just a bit interested if Apple or any other software makers would cater to the minority needs of Nissan drivers wanting to connect to their CONSULT port.

Bang for buck they are quality. Sure there's better stuff available for 10x the price, but I'm not after competition level stuff. I've tried plenty of speaker combinations for around that price bracket, nothing I've heard compares.

Yes, I used all the same wiring when I connected up the other amp, I didn't change anything. Just unscrewed all the wires from the Pioneer amp and screwed them straight into the Kenwood amp. Yeh I did try bridging the remote turn on wire, no go. But all the same wires work when screwed into my other amp. Looked for the switch, neither of my amps have it. Yeh got my numbers wrong, the amp wiring is 4GA, to the battery in the boot. The battery relocation has been done properly. There's no dodgy earths, and the wire is 00 gauge, proper stuff from Westrac. Fused. Also checked voltage drop and everything when I was done, that's all fine. So car runs fine, there's no problems with the relocation itself. I'm fairly electrically savvy, so I know how it all works and what to look for. But this has got me stumped. Not sure if the amp has been painted, but it definitely looks like it came from factory like this. No hard lines near the power light or anything. As in my above reply, I used all the same connections between both amps, didn't change anything. Just moved the wires across from one amp to the other.

This turbo won't look stock anyway. You really need the stock housings if you're after the stock look. I was trying the same thing when I bought my turbo, but between the turbo, spacer plate, braided oil line, and all the necessary custom piping - it's blatantly not stock haha.

There shall be a distinct lack of traction happening... Oh, that's what happens anyway Hopefully no accidents though, there were a few last year.

Hey all, I'm having an interesting, albeit frustrating, problem with the sound system in my car. The problem is with my Pioneer amp, came with the car so I'm not 100% sure on specs. It's white and used to make stuff loud, that's all I know. So what happened is, everything was working fine. Then I relocated my battery to my boot. And now the amp isn't getting power. Which means I get no sound. Head unit turns on and works fine, amp connections are all as they used to be. I didn't rewire anything except to take the power cable from the engine bay to the boot. Using the standard 30A inline fuse., 8GA wire, etc. But the light on the amp doesn't turn on and I get no sound, so I know I'm not getting power. Here's where it gets interesting. I checked all the connections and couldn't find a problem. So to be sure, I transferred all the connections straight across to my other amp, a Kenwood 600W item. Didn't change anything, just moved the wires to set up the other amp exactly the same as I had the Pioneer one set up. This amp got power. So I thought the other amp must be rooted. I checked the built-in fuse on it, that's fine. So I ripped it out, but before I threw it in the bin I wanted to be double sure. So I wired it into my mates car, again exactly the same as I had it connected in my car. Bam, it gets power and works fine. Nothing wrong with the amp then, so I wired it back into my car, quadruple checking how everything is wired. No power. Halp??

As long as you're going the splits then this is a great choice... I'm yet to hear something that I rate higher than the Type-R splits. But the coaxial and 6x9's are fkn terrible.

Wrecking the previously positive image that we had in the public eye? Thing is, lots of people don't know that you're not allowed to accelerate quickly. So it was probably innocent enough.

Only if it's cheaply made man, fiberglass is strong stuff when it's made properly.

Can't see any dangers under low load? As long as EGT's are ok and the car isn't surging. It sounds like he has set his throttle transition enrichment up well, so it's only lean when it's cruising. I've seen a lot of cars running even leaner than 16.5:1 on cruise. Hybrid cars and new Eco cars use the same theory. My dad's Honda Insight sits between 16:1 and 17:1 when cruising.

Mate you need to settle down. I get that you're annoyed, but a sharp tongue and snappy replies to people who are trying to help you is not going to get you anywhere. There's plenty of people here including myself who are using a Hypergear turbo without issue and are happy with the results, what do you think Stao has deliberately sabotaged your turbo or something? Your symptoms do not point to any issues with the turbo, so get it out of your head that this is the only possibility. Start with the cheapest options and work your way from there.

While you're at it, ask him if he can still fix my hot start issue for me