Hanaldo

How much and when are you free? Lol, my car does it easily. I average between 590-600ish. It's not hard to do, but most people don't venture into tuning their car themselves. There's some gains to be had between the dyno and the road, especially considering most tuners won't spend much time on your cruise AFR's.

OR, delete factory o2 sensor, replace with wideband and learn how to tune cruise AFR's = 600kms a tank

It's mostly because of poor adjustment. I've driven behind friends at night, they said mine aren't too bad. The thing is, headlights go out of adjustment all the time. So lots of people just don't even know. Factory HID's will have projector housings, so they get a very flat cut-off line. Then most modern cars have self adjusters, so as a car goes over a bump or a hill, the headlights adjust themselves down so they are never pointing into other drivers eyes.

Sounds like the Siemens Deka's.

When you say timing belt is correct, I assume that means you have checked it with a timing light? How and where did you check spark and fuel pressure? How about the fuel reg, could you be flooding the motor?

Nonsense, there's plenty of cars that come factory with HID high-beams. BMW's, Range Rovers, Audi's etc. BMW's just have separate halogen bulbs that are used for the flash function, they aren't used during normal operating. OP; firstly, just get your low beams adjusted properly so you stop blinding people. Mine used to do the same thing, got them adjusted and now I don't have any issues. Secondly, you can get bi-xenon's which is probably what Borci is talking about. Basically it keeps both high and low beams on at the same time, and has a rotating shield that blocks the light from the high beams when you don't have them on and then flicks out of the way when you turn them on to let the light out.

Try unplugging the afm and starting it, see what it does. Try to change it's symptoms.

Bit of a strange update with this, it's sort of just... gone away Haven't had any trouble for about a week now. Still not starting perfectly, but it's back to how it was before I relocated the battery. I haven't fiddled with anything since I tried patching a battery in at the front, so no idea what's going on. Knowing my car, it's going to come back when I least expect it

Looks like my time in the off-street racing is going to be very short lived

Heard too many horror stories about the siemens deka's to recommend them to anyone... My tuner told me to stay away from them, he refused o even install them in my car if I got them. They also aren't straight plug-n-play, you need to get new plugs. Not too much drama if you know what you're doing.

RB26 injectors won't fit the 25 Neo if you're using the standard plenum and rail. There's not a lot of straight-swap injectors on the market for Neo's unfortunately. I ended up going with Power Enterprise because they were one of the only direct fits I could find. Looking back, I should have gone bigger than the 650's. Though something around that size should be plenty big enough for your application unless you're planning on going E85 at any stage.

Definitely nay If you kept going, that could end up in the "What not to do to a Skyline" thread. I skinned mine with carbon fiber cloth. But that's damn expensive. And not easy to get a good finish, would probably be better sticking with paint. The trick is to not make it stand out too much, you want something that compliments the rest of the interior, not becomes the only focus of it.

Bronze would look killer man, it looks amazing with dark blues. White could be an option as well, but I would go the bronze myself. Also... Nothing attractive? Go fluro pink then

Yeh mine do the same, not very good in the wet

Haha would have been me, I didn't see any other white turbocharged R34 GT's on bronze wheels along there at that time Where were you Mickey, I'm sure I would have spotted your car?? Though I was doing some tuning so possibly missed you...

This. Personally I would never buy boost on ebay, chances are it's poor quality. Chinese boost is made in low-altitude factories, so it comes out much poorer than the stuff from the high-altitude factories in Japan. America has been releasing some good boost lately as well though, so could be a good time to upgrade your boost to some aftermarket American boost. Just be prepared to wait for it, America are slower than Japan when it comes to exporting boost.

You really should avoid idling your car for so long if you can avoid it. Letting it idle to warm it up in the morning is silly, you need to warm up your gearbox and diff oil as well anyway. Idling can cause bore glazing and just isn't good for the motor in general. Your car will have coolant temp enrichment settings anyway, so it's much better to drive your car to warm it up. As for cooling it down, it should cool down very quickly once you have gotten to the top. It's water and oil cooled, so a minute of driving with air passing through the radiator will be better than letting it idle while the coolant actually heats up. Turbo timers are really pretty useless in everyday circumstance. I used to think the same way as you, but I've since come to realize how little they do.

No. I'll check if I'm getting fuel to the rail first. If I'm not then I'll try a new relay.

Straight to the battery in the boot...

The fuse box is seeing 10v though. It's a bit low, but it's enough to spin the starter motor, so surely it should be enough for everything else? And how does it relate to heat? Surely if the problem were low amperage or volt drop then it would still give trouble when cold? Why does it only give trouble when hot? Also, the relocation simply made things worse, I did have trouble hot starting before I moved the battery. So could there be something that is heat related and made worse by having a lower voltage? I'll quadruple check the earth points and wiring. Another thought I had... My fuel pump is directly wired to my battery. Could there be something heat related that causes the fuel pump to not get enough voltage? It does prime before cranking though. I'll check I'm getting fuel to the rail when I get home today.

Exactly. I'm not sure about RB20's and 26's, but I know the 25's and 25 Neo's have water and oil cooled turbos. I imagine the 20's and 26's are the same. So a turbo timer definitely isn't necessary, though I still wouldn't flog my car right up until parking and then just switch it off. Mind you, I've been very grateful for having a turbo timer in the last couple of weeks. Car doesn't start when hot. So if I need to pop in somewhere quickly then I just set my turbo timer to 10 minutes, go and do my thing, come back to my car and drive away. Illegal and not good for the car, but the other option is to switch it off and then wait three hours for it to cool down enough to start again... They have their usefulness these turbo timers.

BAAAAAAAAAAAAhahahahahahaha I love my car.

Straight from Nissan. They'll tell you it's overnight, but in reality it will take 4-5 weeks for your new boost to arrive. OEM boost though, it's worth the wait. Much higher quality than aftermarket boost.

Bit of an update with this. Last night me and my dad had a look at a couple of things to see if we could figure out the most likely cause. Most of the stuff we tried didn't change anything, but two things we tried had interesting results. Firstly, we measured the voltage drop between the battery and the power line going to the fuse box in the engine bay while cranking. It first drops down to about 9.5v and then goes back up to 10v before finally getting up to 10.5v when the engine catches and I stop turning the key. I mentioned to him about the injectors requiring enough voltage to be able to open, but we were both pretty sure that this must be enough voltage for them to open? Even if 9.5v was too low, surely 10v wouldn't be too low and they should be opening? Or do the injectors require such a high voltage? The second thing we tried was an attempt to identify whether it was the batteries location in the boot that was causing the trouble. We left my battery where it was in the boot, and used jumper leads to connect the battery in my dad's car to the fuse box power supply. This definitely helped. With the battery connected up there, it no longer cranked for ages without firing. The thing is, it still wasn't perfect. It would still crank for awhile, and then it would sound like it had fired so I would stop turning the key and it would just die. It took a few attempts at cranking to get it to fire, but it would eventually start every single time. With my dad's battery disconnected again, it would go back to cranking for ages without firing. In summary, it does start better with a battery supplying power to the fuse box, but it still isn't good. If I were to patch a battery into the front again, I would still say it has a hot start problem. So, anyone have any ideas about what we have discovered here?

You don't even need to let it idle for that long. 10 seconds is good enough, 30 seconds is plenty. I never set my timer to more than 30 seconds, so it's off before you're even out of earshot. Realistically, you don't need a turbo timer at all. I've got one because it means I have a huge penis.