Hanaldo

Cool thread. Needs moar dragons.

If you've boxed your pod properly then it won't be an issue. If you haven't, I would suggest you do so. The engine bay is hot enough without red hot manifolds/turbine housings, you'll be losing performance regardless.

Don't have that grill anymore Replaced it with black mesh and a proper GT badge.

Bronze wheels? Could have been me, I was there around then...

No... Probably a good idea, I'll give that a go.

Just tried crimping the return fuel line, made no difference. Any other ideas?

Yeh that's gay though, sif I would remember or pay any attention to what codes I've picked up. Even if I've got the code I'll hack it, I hacked Adam's own computer in his office lol. I walked around Sariff HQ for a good hour just hacking everyone shit Turns out the guards don't like it though... They'll kill you where you stand. Must have some INCREDIBLE porn in their emails

I just disconnect if I'm about to be booted by the trace. Takes up an attempt, but it's better than having to wait to be let back in. I haven't found a security system that I can't hack within 3 attempts yet. It's not ALL trial and error, there is a lot of strategy to it. When I first started playing I just went in and started trying to hack every node in sequence. Then I figured out the strategy, and now it's not so hard. To be honest, I'm not that far in the game yet. I've been rather busy this week so haven't had much chance to play it. I'm up to the part just after the warehouse bit, where you leave Sariff HQ and are out in the streets. Just doing the sidequests now. I'm taking the stealthy "leave no man conscious" route lol. Trying not to be discovered, but still taking out every bad guy I see, either silently or lethally. Sometimes it turns into a fire-fight, it's good fun though This game really takes me back... The original Deus Ex was the first ever shooter game I played as a kid. I loved that game so much, I can remember the very first mission I played at the Statue of Liberty. I got spotted by a bot and got so scared I ran off from the computer and hid in my room Took me a good couple of days to finish that mission because every time I got scared I would run back to the start and wait it out for like half an hour lol. Who can remember shooting pigeons? That shit was amazing

Yeh that's the beauty of games like these, there's so many different ways to play it; you can just go back and play it again and it's a completely different game Up the difficulty? And if you find it too easy... Why do you take the easy route? lol

Wow thats cheap... Would easily go OEM if I needed new coilpacks and they were available at this price. Otherwise, I've got Splitfires myself. Even with the abuse they cop from me (washed engine bay, filled the valley with water and degreaser ) they still work perfectly. Can't compare them with other brands as I've only ever had these, but they are great performers.

Yes but I've already tried a new battery? If a 720cca battery isn't going to make any difference then it doesnt seem likely that it's the battery. I used 00 gauge cable, it's plenty big

Seek and ye shall find... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/187108-jjr-coil-packs-vs-oem-vs-splitfire-vs-other/

Yeh mine were like $180 each or something. About $1100 all up. Cheaper than some other brands I guess, but still wouldn't say theyre cheap lol.

My injectors definitely weren't cheap lol

DP. Winning?

Mmm didn't achieve much there. Tried changing the Crank Enrich table values (set at 8 normally) as high as 30 to as low 2. Didn't affect anything. Also tried changing the Crank Enrich Offset tables, but that didn't do anything either. I did notice the ECU was giving a code about the Throttle Motor Sensor? Likely related?? In any case, I think I've tried all I can. Need to take it back to my tuner. *sigh* more money

Thanks Jez, I'll give that a go. Is this on the Crank Enrich table? What about the crank enrich offset tables, do they need to be changed as well? The enrichment value on the Crank Enrich table is only at 8% from 50 degrees on-wards, I'll try lowering it slowly.

Ok just checked the cranking voltage on the fully charge battery, it only dropped to 9.9 at it's lowest. So a little bit low still but not as bad as 7.8. And once started, both battery and turbo timer were reading around 14.4v.

Just earthed the battery to the chassis... The cable we used was so big there wouldn't be space to run a second one. Left the standard earths as they were except for the battery which we re-earthed at the back. I've checked those, they seem ok? Thing is, that voltage may have already been because they battery was already going flat. Once it started I didn't check the cranking voltage again because I didn't want to turn the car off lol. Once it's running I'm not sure, I'll check.

Have checked the fuel pressure, it seems fine... It's definitely getting fuel. If it coughs then it usually starts soon after. If you watch the video I posted earlier then that is pretty much what it does. The first time I tried starting it, it just cranked without even trying to fire. The second time it cranked for awhile and then eventually started. Yesterday when I got stuck for 3 hours () it just cranked without even trying to fire. Eventually drained the battery dead and I just gave up trying until water temps were back down to 40ish.

It is, it's very low. I will need a new battery in the future. But using a bigger battery didn't affect the starting issue. The starter doesn't click or make any noises, it seems to behave as it should. Also it's fine when cold, if it were the starter then surely temperature wouldn't have much effect?

Yeh same story with me, my car started well before the injector swap. But then it was never such a huge problem before the battery relocation. I had thought that perhaps I was getting too much voltage drop over the length of cable, given when I was cranking it yesterday my battery was going from 12.5v straight down to about 7.8v. Also with the key switched to accessories, my turbo timer reads 11.4v when the battery reads 12.5v. But the people at Battery World said my battery probably is a bit small for my application, but it's still turning the starter motor fine. If the problem was caused by the battery being too small then cranking would be slow. Without having much experience in the matter, I was confused about how having a lean ms at cranking would cause problems like this? Because surely when you are cranking, fuel is being injected. Even if it is a small amount of fuel, surely it would inject enough to start the motor before you cranked the battery flat? Which made me think that perhaps there is too much fuel getting in, even though there is no enrichment value set? I don't know. I'm gonna phone my tuner after lunch today, see if he can fit me in. It's getting to the stage where I don't want to drive my car because I don't know if I'll be able to get home again. Not too mention the fact that I'm wearing everything out by cranking it so much.

Epoxy will work perfectly. Well it's not really dodgy considering they are not supposed to be done up that tightly. I've never over-tightened mine and hence have never had a problem. Also, I wouldn't trust 3A pod filters anymore. I used to think they were fine until my mate decided to buy one for his 32. Lasted 2 weeks before the turbo (Greddy TD-05, so not even that big) sucked the filter paper out of the frame and into the turbo. It didn't cause any damage as it was on the dyno at the time so the tuner shut it off straight away and pulled it out. Mate thought it was probably just a dodgy unit seeing as he couldn't find anyone else with the same problem, so he took it back to the store and got it replaced. Same thing happened again the first time he pulled full boost in 4th, but this time he was on the track. He is just about finished installing the new engine and turbo...

Ah my bad, forgot to answer. They are Power Enterprise 650cc's. As for the others, fuel pressure reg is stock and spark plugs are Iridiums gapped to 0.8mm. Will try altering the Crank Enrich table when I've got all the plugs back in.

Yeh that's where it's set, we tried increasing it to 15 degrees but it didn't make any difference. If I'm not getting good spark, wouldn't that still occur when the car is cold? This is definitely a warm start issue. I'll check spark regardless. We did try changing the cranking ms, but got a little confused with NIStune. In the enrichment tables, there are 6 different tables that we couldn't work out the difference between: Crank Enrich, Crank Enrich Offset, Crank Enrich Offset 1, Crank Enrich Offset 2, Crank Enrich Offset 3, and Crank Enrich Offset 4. We tried modifying them one by one but nothing made a difference to starting. Not sure if they all need to be modified? In any case, the AFR's seemed to be fine during cranking. I've got the spark plugs out now just checking everything, if I can't figure anything out then I'll have to get in contact with my tuner and see if he can fit me in.