Hanaldo

Everything I have read about sensor placement says the stock location is too close to the turbo?

Just threw in his real name at the end there to confuse everyone?

I thought it might cause issues with galvanic corrosion? I shall ask my exhaust guy. Not sure what I'll do if he doesn't want to weld mild to stainless

Looks good, I think I'll order one in the next few days What sort of steel was the bung that came with? Is it mild? Anyone know if that will cause issues being welded into a stainless steel pipe??

Wait... Who's Dylan?

How much lag is there between the gauge read-out and the actual RPM value? In the NIStune documentation it warns that the read-out from the sensor might be slightly behind the real-life RPM value, so if you looked at your AFR's on a dyno sheet and you wanted to fix a spike, you would have to edit the RPM points before the point where it is on the dyno... Aaaaaaaaaaand I've confused myself with my terrible explanation

Good stuff, I've been watching the ebay sale and the price has come back down again, so I may splash out for one now.

Who told you that lol?

I am offended.

Fair enough then lol. I'm sure my motor would be able to handle a bit more, but I respect him for wanting to keep it safe. He's a gun tuner Thanks mate, I'm sure I'll get involved in another dyno competition at some stage so I'll see how it goes on a roller dyno then. Just as a matter of interest, if I wanted to upgrade my turbo at a later stage to one of your newer designs, how much would I be looking at?? Also, how much feedback have you had on your externally gated units?

Yeh around that. Probably around 3200. Might do some data logging on the weekend to see exactly how it drives on the road. As for your earlier comment about Sean not wanting to run more than 19psi; I realised this morning that I didn't tell him my car has had an engine swap. So he probably saw my odometer read 166xxxkms and thought it best to leave it at 19, when really my engine/gearbox/driveshaft etc. only have ~70xxx on them.

Have you spoken to Andy at Hyperdrive? He is an official Greddy dealer, have seen the EMU in his shop. For what it's worth, when I was asking him about ECU's for my car, he told me to steer clear of the EMU... I understand you're possibly quite restricted in your choice of piggy-back for what you want to do, but perhaps a stand-alone ECU would be the best option if no-one wants to touch the EMU? I mean the EMU is not exactly 'cheap', you could find a stand-alone for a few hundred more and it will be better. And in the end, it all comes down to how well it is tuned, if tuners are staying away from it then there's probably a reason for it.

Yeh I thought that sounded about right. I was hoping for around 360-370rwhp on the dyno dynamics, but I'm not complaining. I have the ATR43G2, .64 rear housing. Got it before all these crazy new turbos started coming out lol

I'm gonna go ahead and stand with the crazy hipsters yeh, the other two categories are way off

Hey guys, Just thought I should update the latest events with my car. Stao this is mainly for your benefit, though others here may remember I had been having some trouble with my car not making the power and lacking response. I got my car retuned today by a different tuner (Sean, Allstar Garage). The car made 350rwhp@19psi (Sean wasn't keen to put more into it on the stock motor), full boost by ~3500rpm (compared to previous 4000ish). This was done on a hub dyno though, so I'm not sure how much that will have affected the results. In terms of drive-ability on the street, it feels much faster. It definitely comes on hard and pushes me back in my seat all the way to redline. 1st and 2nd are unusable unless I ease onto the throttle, and 3rd spins a bit as well if I stamp it. That's on near-new 245/40/18 semi-slicks. So I have no idea what my previous issues were but I'm a happy customer now It is still a bit lower than the power level I was expecting, but it's not far off and I think with a bit more boost it may have got there. Having experienced what 4000rpm of lag feels like, I'm very content to stay at this power level and keep the response. Stao, thanks for all the support you gave me this whole time. I will upload the dyno sheet when I get a chance.

You sir, have not heard an R35 at full song then. They sound amazing, nothing like VQ's.

Z32's are hardly pricey lol, you spend much more by paying for an ECU with MAP sensor capability. Stao, is getting rid of your AFM not venturing a bit far from the stock setup?

Yeh man, on their website: http://www.powercruise.com/?page=browser_compatibility

If it's leaking, that could be the cause. Means air that the AFM has registered is never reaching the engine and hence you run rich and stall. But that's making a few assumptions. When is it stalling, on decel or idle or?

Stock bov?

Gun metal grey R33 GTST with SAUWA sticker in the right rear quarter window parked next to me at ECU Joondalup

Have you got a permit for that pigeon?

Probably not, but if they know what they are talking about then they would know that flutter makes your car run rich, hence increasing emissions. I doubt it though.

Yehhh definitely sounds like a rooted alternator. But to make sure, put the positive lead of the multimeter on the output terminal of the alternator. You may find that you have a high level of resistance between your alternator and your battery which is preventing your battery from getting a good current. That would be a very high volt drop so I doubt it is the case, but it's easy enough to test so you may as well rule it out.