Hanaldo

Means in before the lock. Because you clearly haven't even tried searching. There is so much info on these forums, go check out the dyno upgrade thread and the forced induction performance guide. You haven't mentioned anything along the line of mods, like ECU, fuel pump, injectors, etc. If this car you've bought is all stock then you've got a long way to go before you can upgrade the turbos, and you need to do a lot of research before you even consider doing that. Judging by what you have posted, you have no idea about how to successfully build a car.

About normal if you have a full 3"+ turbo back exhaust and pod/panel filter. That's true... I still don't think it will be 15psi at 37% though. Only have experience with my setup though so I couldn't be sure. OP, do what Jez suggested and have someone watch the gauges while you are driving. You might even want to get your car back into your tuner so they can double check the AFR's; wouldn't take long for them to do so shouldn't cost much.

Silly example then But I agree with your point anyway, 37% wouldn't be 15psi.

No love for Defi's, they are so hot though To compromise, I've got these: Shadow Pro BF Series. I've got the smoked face (white illumination) on my A-Pillar and the white face (red illumination) in the triple gauge cluster. Read exactly the same as my tuners gauges so they are accurate enough for me. Not exactly cheap, just cheap compared to Defi's

Yeh that's weird though, mine was set at 66% when I had my stock actuator, that was 14psi.

How do you know yours is genuine?

Any way to make a quick buck. One genuine rule with eBay; If it's too good to be true, it probably is

What brand gauge is it? Where is the gauge tee'd into and where is the boost controller tee'd into? If it's just a cheap no-name gauge, I'd trust the Profec. You didn't mention having any aftermarket engine management, so if that's the case then I highly doubt you are getting to 14psi without hitting R&R on the stock ECU.

Next to 1600hp Torana's, sleeper vans with a 450 2JZ, amazing GTR's, a genuine de Lorean (was disappoint that it could not travel back through time)... So much awesome

Fair enough, I don't understand Fahrenheit in the slightest so I'll take your word on that However, it still isn't going to affect much. The thermostat may start to open then but it will only be fractionally. It wouldn't be enough to stop your engine getting up to temperature. You could have a 3 meter thick radiator (for arguments sake I'm making it ridiculous ) and it still wouldn't stop you getting up to temp; as long as the thermostat is in working order then the radiator plays no part until the thermostat opens.

Mmmm, can also cause problems. I would only ever run an oil cooler with an inline thermostat. Lots of people run them without thermostats so it takes ages to get up to operating temperature, which increases motor wear and tear. So in my opinion, if you have a largely daily driven car using an oil cooler with no thermostat, you're doing more harm than good. Any good Jap brand. Don't get Chinese. You're probably looking at $700 upwards for a new kit. Which is why if you don't really need it, don't waste the money on it. You could also take a look at the Hel oil cooler kit which looks like some decent gear. Phil (PM-R33) did a group buy for these; though I doubt he will be doing another one based on how this one went: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/357901-hel-thermostatic-oil-cooler-kit-group-buy/

I entered last year, it's way too much fun Definitely entering again this year. Richard, I shall be keeping an eye out for your car because I followed your signature's suggestion

Such a nice paint job too, deserves to be polished that often. Kids eh.

Nobody is saying they are crap lol, they just aren't the absolute best motor ever created like people seem to believe.

Again, horses for courses. There simply is no outright 'best' car. A stock Skyline is not impressive at all, far from it. They don't deliver great fuel economy without a tune, they really aren't that fast, they don't have the best handling. If I wanted a fast car straight out of the box without having to modify it, Skyline wouldn't be my pick. There's too many different cars with too wide a demographic for any one car to be the best.

Arghhh, unlucky mate Hopefully it's not too bad? I don't understand some people... The amount of stolen cars that end up crashed somewhere; why would someone want to steal a car and then try to kill themselves in it?

Has anyone done this with an aftermarket kit? I need to go get some 3M today, but I was trial fitting it last night and my Top Secret front bar does not have much lip underneath to attach to. Bit difficult because I don't want to screw into the side of the bumper, but there isn't much surface area for the double sided tape. Suggestions? I might have to fiberglass something up, just thought I'd see if anyone has any other ideas.

Be careful with eBay eh: http://forums.gtrcanada.com/gtrc-ot-pit/48499-tomei-counterfeit-warning.html http://www.silviawa.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=39446

Pretty sure both tuners I have been to made me sign a disclaimer before they would tune my car, saying that I understood and accepted there were risks in putting my car on the dyno and they would not be held responsible if anything went wrong.

Perhaps in a straight line. I'm not interested in going fast in a straight line anyway Yeh I track my car, it's not solely street driven. Super responsive turbo is good on the street but at Barbagallo where we have the long back-straight, I like to go faaaaaast

Well I imagine most people do not appreciate consistent speeding fines/demerits. An Evo is the better car on the street because they are so fast within the speed limits. In my car, winding out second = ~90kph. Third gear forget about it. It's fun (especially fwy on ramps, woooooooo) but it's a bit rubbish on the street otherwise, I'm only just hitting full boost when I already need to stop accelerating.

Don't see why ^ You can't honestly have expected the Skyline to be the fastest car around? Certainly not the reason I bought my car.

Yeh 30 degrees Fahrenheit is about -1 degree Celsius lol (as I'm sure you know being you are from Canada). So if a thermostat opens 30f below operating temperature then that is 1c below operating temperature. It is impossible for a standard heat exchanger (radiator) to bring water below ambient temperature. That would require a thermodynamic refrigeration cycle, eg. the vapor-compression refrigeration air-conditioner in your car. Wind chill has no affect on a radiator unless the temperature of the water is above ambient temperature. If you parked a car with a cold engine out in a freezing cold wind, the water in the radiator would not drop below ambient temperature. However if you warmed the car up first and then parked it in the same wind, it would cool down to ambient temperature quicker than if there was no wind. It would never go below ambient temperature, it's impossible. Off topic, I've always wanted to go to Canada! Intend on doing a year-long working holiday over there at some stage; snowboarding being my main activity

Location would help. But I would do as the last place said, DIY. Panel beating isn't difficult, you just have to be careful. I'm sure they would have taken your money if you had insisted, but you gotta realize that it is a small job and it means they have your car in there taking up the space that a 'more profitable' car could occupy. That means that if you do insist you want them to do it, they will charge a hell of a lot more than it is worth because they will see it as costing them money.