Hanaldo

No worries mate; manage to get it sorted? Or attempting it on the weekend? It's all pretty straight forward, but if you do need a hand feel free to gimme a shout as I said, happy to help out where and when I can

So, managed to sort out my fuel lid: Absolute prick of a job to convert that plastic fitting to an AN fitting. I do still need to make sure that there are no leaks, can still smell a bit of fuel a few days later so will make sure that isn't an issue. Also tested the accuracy of my sensor, and while the Zeitronix display and my ECU still disagree on the fuel temperature reading, they did at least agree on the ethanol content. So I have booked the car in for next week Wednesday, fingers crossed I have set everything up correctly and I don't cause any headaches for my tuner With any luck, this time next week the car will be running on 88% corn juice!

Oil pressure

I have a spare one... It just has a big hole in the cylinder 1 runner Yeh... Remember to drill out those threads!

Yep, they are what I used. Be warned, mine warped severely after about 2000kms. I had to cut two of them to get them off. But MTQ were very surprised and said it shouldn't happen, and because I couldn't find any inconel studs I just used the same ones again. They seem to still be ok.

Matters to me! It will be getting tuned. I just like to know that what I've done is working correctly before I give it to my tuner.

No, the mark on the dial gauge is just a reference. Really you can use any number you like, so long as you use the same number for all your measurements. So say you choose 0.040" then you just rotate the engine forward until the gauge reads 0.040" again. Should also note that for RB's you need to preload the dial indicator due to the lifter design in a cam on bucket setup.

So I did a few tests over the last few days to test the accuracy of my sensor. First of all my sister is a lab technician at ChemCentre which is WA's statutory body for analytical tests. So I gave her a sample of E85 from my local station and she tested that using separation funnels to be 88%. Accurate to within 2%. Then using a sample of the same batch of E85, my sensor gave me a reading of 82% on both the Zeitronix display and my ECU. Then using a multimeter to measure Kelvin resistance, I measured that sample of E85 to be 13 degrees. My Zeitronix display told me it was 12° while my ECU says 17°. So, I'm still not sure what to make of it...

I don't know how you came to that conclusion at all lol.

From memory the factory ones are 42mm, so it depends what size spacer you have. I think Stao uses a 15mm spacer, so you will need to get studs at least 15mm longer. I believe I went with 67mm studs.

Especially at 8500 rpm

Yeh you gotta extend the studs. I got my steel ones from MTQ, but try to find inconel ones.

Well the gaskets are definitely the same, I used a standard rb25 gasket kit when I did mine.

I'm aware of this bud. The fitting in the photo I posted did not fail due to over tightening.

They're actually not. The Nissan plug in boards are quite different. The VIPEC plug ins have quite a few features that the Link plug ins don't .

Ah dude, you don't know pain until you've tried to change your oil filter with a Plazmaman plenum. I had bruises all the way up my forearms for a week!

Wasn't Danny by any chance was it? Haha

I think the angle of the photo is misleading, from memory the tapped hole is the same depth as the captive nut. We drilled into the rail itself, so the tapped hole does have a good 15mm of thread. Point noted though, I will double check. The car is off the road at the moment, so I will pull one of the seats out and double check how it was done.

Hopefully he's figured something out by now

By the way, I meant to reply to this. Have you figured it out yet? First of all, the stock hard lines are 5/16. So the 3/8 to -6 quick connect fittings wouldn't work anyway. Then those quick connect fittings are designed for GM EFI systems. They work with the flex fuel sensor because they are a GM part, but you don't want to use them for your hard lines. To convert your hard lines, you will want to cut the barb off and then use Speedflows 5/16 to -6 tube adapters with the compression olive:

Definitely.

Hey mate, I'm just chasing the door pockets if you've got them?

You would only need to remove the plenum, not the runners. That bit is actually quite easy.

Is it worth the risk to cheap out on fittings for the sake of a few dollars? You're running a pretty serious fuel system there, so the car is obviously gonna be pretty serious. You haven't skimped on the quality of the pumps, personally I don't think it is worth cheaping out on the parts that hold everything together, even if some of the cheaper stuff might do the job. This happened to a mates car: Fitting went on fine, but stripped when he tried to remove it. Fuel leaks everywhere.

I would tap a hole mate. If you're planning on running the car solely on the MAP sensor (not using a dual MAP/AFM setup) then you want that sensor to be reliable. If you tee it into another hose and for whatever reason, that hose splits... That's gonna mess up your readings but your ECU won't know any different.