Hanaldo

Not 100% sure, but I believe so yes. Fairly sure they look like this: But I've seen so many types of calipers and never paid that much attention to his lol, not sure if I have them mistaken. They are stock as far as he knows.

Stock GTST brakes. Interesting.

Saw a black R32 on McGilvray Ave, was playing football there. Couple of seconds after it drove out of my field of view, I heard lots of gate and limiter

I dont understand the theory... Pre-throttle body pressure means nothing? As Simon said, the butterfly is the restriction so measuring boost against that doesn't mean much. When the throttle body opens and the motor needs airflow, the positive pressure will drop. It's about volume of air, not pressure? I fail to see how youre going to create boost at idle when there is no load. That said, if it can be done then I'm very happy to be proved wrong. I just don't get it.

No.

Nah they dont need any spacers. Mate just put some on his 32 GTST.

Technically you want exhaust velocity, not backpressure... I would be surprised if your 2.5" exhaust was too big, it should be ok. Not trolling, but are you sure it's not just a case of having a slow NA? lol. Or as Ash said, you've altered the cars load points and affected the tune, though the stock ecu should be able to relearn for such a small mod.

NIStune's not a piggyback... I had 245rwhp @14psi on Hyperdrives old dyno; NIStune, full custom 3" turbo back exhaust, Apexi pod filter, FMIC, EBC, etc. etc.

You must not have tried very hard, quick search first result: http://www.jdmlegion.com/Assets/PROFEC_B_SPEC2.pdf Controller functions start page 13.

I didnt find my exhaust had any affect on under bonnet temps at all. Maybe if you are sitting still, idling for a long time then it will get hot. But otherwise the air flow while you are driving keeps things pretty cool.

Has Andy got his dyno going properly yet or is he still going to Mick?

If it's TP cutting with the NIStune then it either hasn't been setup right or there is something wrong. Go speak to the tuner, they will know.

My NIStune is probably the second favourite mod I have done to the car so far. Fair enough I had done all the usual mods before I got it, but Its not just about power, the power figure is just a number. It completed changed the way the car drove, improved fuel economy by an amazing amount, etc. It was bucket loads more fun after the tune. And for what, less than 1k? Not expensive in the slightest compared to other mods I have done that made less noticeable difference.

This. Although it's supposed to be the turbo upgrade thread, plenty of people have posted in there with stock turbos. Bov won't affect power, nor will Splitfire coils unless your stock ones were failing. You won't see 300rwhp on the stock turbo. 260-270ish is realistic.

Well as far as I can associate with the O2 sensor yes... Car has gremlins, I'm missing about 100rwhp and 500rpm of response, but can't see that relating to the o2 sensor. Still searching for an answer to that problem. I also get a lot of reverberation, but again that is to be expected having an AFM in front of a big turbo. As for the 'surging', that doesn't really describe it. It's not like a fuel surge you get from running low on fuel. It's like when I'm cruising on decel, using the engine speed to maintain roadspeed going down a hill or something like that, it sort of feels like I'm tapping the brake slightly and then taking it off. It slows down a tiny bit then picks back up. If I touch the accelerator at all then it doesn't do it. Given it only does it when cold, I imagine it is sensor related. Can only think of either TPS or o2 sensor, and seeing as my o2 sensor is unplugged then it makes sense. /long winded explanation

Yeh that's it. Knew I wasn't dreaming so you would need the hard/software to do it, but it's possible. And a hell of a lot better than splicing into knock sensors and such

I'm sure I read about this on the NIStune forum, I'll see if I can find it. Someone did exactly that, wrote a program that could store two separate tunes so that you could fill up with 98 or E85 and change the tune by clicking a button. It was something along the lines of getting the car tuned, saving that tune and then retuning on the other fuel and saving that tune. Then the program that he wrote would load whichever tune you chose. Forget the exact details, but I'm sure it was along those lines. Is that not what you are asking for?

http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=18326&cat=259&page=1 Did you have a look yourself lol? This stuff is easy to find.

Could be a number of things. Do you have hub-centric locators? If not, make sure that when the wheel nuts are done up, you do them up diagonally. So do one up, then do the one opposite, and so on. Or if the tyres are quite old or poor, then another possibility is tyre location. Take it to a wheel or suspension workshop that knows how to do a thorough wheel balance. They will have a machine that can tell them whether the tyre is in it's most suitable location on the rim. If it's not then they can rotate the tyre to it's best location.

Lol, I service my car every 3000kms. It doesn't make a noticeable difference because I never let it get that old in the first place.

Yeh that's what I meant. Depends how it's tuned. If it is tuned properly around cruise then you may get better fuel economy. I get 600kms to a tank if I drive nicely, 550ish if I drive around on boost a lot.

Can you get a recording of the noise?

3" front pipe? Dump/front pipes make a HUGE difference to spool. All I can hear from about 2500rpm and 4500rpm is induction noise.

Yeh my o2 sensor isn't connected in my car, runs fine without it. The car 'surges' a bit when cold and in closed loop, but fine other than that. As for the fuel reg, they are a waste of money. Completely unnecessary if you have correct size injectors.

Vacuum/boost leak? Does it drive any differently or is it just the noise?