Hanaldo

Jus' sayin...

Yeh will do mate. I'll definitely paint them. Not sure what colour yet though. Currently they are very dark blue to suit the GT logo. But I just got new bronze wheels and I want to get some blue wheel nuts. Haven't found any the same shade of blue, so I'm not sure if I should repaint them the blue they are now or a similar blue to the nuts. Decisions...

Very aware of what both tests are lol. By 'they', I was referring to the DPI.

Yeh that's all I want. Thanks for the reply mate, that's what I was looking for

Yeh but they still do 5 gas.

Perth, WA...

Yeh I've tried that. Belts are all new, they were replaced when the engine went in. VCT works fine.

Well it will still have to be inspected by the engineer. My mate registered his R31 with RB25DET in it and had to do an emissions test, so be careful of that.

Yeh, when I had to go over the pits they wouldn't give me that extension. I had to get an accelerator pedal from Nissan which was going to take 4 weeks. I had to pay for the initial inspection (failed), then they said they could only give me a 2 week extension because the original sticker was for 3 weeks, so waited the 2 weeks then had to go back for another inspection (failed), this time they would only give me 1 more week, so waited that week, then had to go back for another inspection to get another week long extension, then the pedal arrived so I had to go back for a final inspection. Only thing they wouldn't pass me on was my metal accelerator pedal. Yet I had to keep going back knowing my car was going to fail. They made a lot of money out of me Sounds like they've sorted that bullshit out.

No, but Clark Rubber does

Thanks for the replies. Yeh I figured milling is probably the best way to go about it. But I'm not sure who near me would do it or how much it would cost. Problem with a belt linisher is... I do not have one lol. What about a hand held belt sander, do the same job? Would that do a better job than a flapper? A file would do the job but that's a hell of a lot of work and probably wouldn't get a nice finish.

Hey all. I'm after a more clean look for my brake calipers (not having issues with wheel fitment or anything like that) so I want to shave the Nissan logo off the side. Wouldn't go any further than that, I just want the flat face. Any suggestions as to how I could do that myself or would I have to take it to an engineer and get them to mill it off? Had thought of using a flapper disk but will that go through the metal? Cheers, Martin.

Same story as James. I'll be there

Yeh I don't think KV2 is metallic, pretty sure it's just a gloss. Easy to tell just by looking at it anyway, does your paint have tiny flecks of metal in it?

Lag is lag. I thought the same thing when I decided not to go ball bearing. But a few hundred rpm better response would be very welcome now.

Street driven car and you're not fussed about response? I'm running an ATR43G2 which is brought on a little earlier by a Greddy Profec II, and I find it too laggy.

My aftermarket gauge reads just above 20psi at idle. Which is about 1-1.5kg/cm^2. So yes, I'd say that's about normal.

Yes, but the average altitude of Japan is about 1000m, whereas our average altitude is about 400m.

Yeh I was a bit wary of using gasket glue on any turbo parts. So I suppose the only thing to do is to pull it all apart and make sure it is all good

If you've got the equipment, definitely give it a go. It's all in the prepwork. Hardest part is getting the right mixture of paint vs thinners. Paint cost again depends on the paint. I got 5L of QM1 cloud white mixed for my car for $160. Then clear coat was about $80 for 2L, but it needs to be thinned out so much that I only used about 1L. If you have metallic paint, it will be more expensive. And harder to spray, though still give it a shot. Just practice on something first *EDIT* The effected areas do look a bit challenging. If you have metallic paint, it will be very hard to blend that damage near the fuel lid. Is the damage on the bottom actually on the skirts or just above them?

If it's metallic, I daresay it will be more expensive. It's a real bitch to spray. You could always just learn how to spray paint yourself... It's not hard

Dreamworks are good, I've seen some of their work before. Price will depend on the damage and what type of paint it is (ie, metallic, gloss, etc). Without looking at it, it's hard to say. Could be anywhere from $200 to over a grand. From your description, it sounds like they will have to completely respray your side skirts. You're probably looking at about $300-$400 for that if they do the prep work. The damage near the fuel cap sounds more serious. To do a good job, they would have to completely respray the panel and then blend into the panels next to it. I'd say you're looking at upwards of $500 for that. But best to take it for a quote and see what they have to say. As for whether it is the original paint or not, look up the paint code in the engine bay and then go here to confirm the colour: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/138419-nissan-paint-codes/ If it's not a match then it isn't a big deal, paint shops have a device that they put on your paint to tell them what's in it so they can determine the colour. So it won't be a problem either way.

+1

how long did this take to arrive by the way? I'm not really keen to pay $50 to get express postage, but I am trying to get my car ready for a magazine shoot on the 26th, if it's going to take 16 days to get here then I'll have to pay the express.

The dash cluster or the triple cluster in the middle? They are both easy. Triple cluster you get a flat-head screw driver and pry off the aircon vents from the left, and unclip the wire harness for the hazard light button. Then undo the two screws holding the pod. Slide the pod forward towards you. Easy as that The dash cluster is also easy, just a few more screws. You will need to undo the steering column surround as well. Just have a look for all the screws holding it on, I forget how many there are. I think it's 5 underneath but I'm not sure. Then undo the screws holding the trim around the outside of the dash. Then I think there are 3-5 screws holding the dash itself in place. It's really just a case of looking for all the screws holding everything on and then sliding it out. Been awhile since I've done it so I forget where they all are, but it's very straight forward.