Hanaldo

I have already listed most of the symptoms. We have put engine knocking down to superheated intake air. Fuel is not an issue, nor is timing. But at 295rwhp, this turbo should not be out of efficiency. The intercooler made sense, if the turbo is working really hard to push the air through the restrictive cooler then it is going to create a lot of heat. This is my graph from before the injectors, turbo and Z32 were installed (all went on at the same time): Better shaped power curve, but 243rwhp @14psi is also a bit low if you compare to other results. When I got the car back with these issues, I was quick to blame the turbo myself. But Stao has exchanged the turbo at his own expense, which would be a silly thing to do if he knew it wasn't going to perform.

Ok well I just did a test in 2nd and 3rd gear, need to do another one in 4th gear just to be sure. But I only got a pressure difference of 1.137psi. Which in the scheme of things is fark all. So I am stumped yet again

AGP, 600x300x100. Yeh sorry about the size, not sure how to make them bigger. They are pretty much all the same with slight changes in the shape. All peak at around 290rwhp. All hit full boost at 4500rpm (rather laggy for this turbo), and immediately start to flatten out. Making about 260rwhp at 4500, then by redline at 7250 only making 290rwhp. I was more posting them to demonstrate the shape and how it gets very lazy as soon as it hits full boost.

That depends on the turbo

This is what I did. Imported a donor car from Japan that had been in a front end accident. Swapped EVERYTHING over, including little things like brake booster, master/cylinders, etc. etc. Made sense to given the donor car had only done 61xxx kms compared to my cars 140xxxkms. Basically anything that could be swapped, was. At the same time, replaced all gaskets and hoses. Lots of work, lots of headaches. Lots of fun.

DP. Damn board error messages

I'm using a manometer. Not the prettiest of things, but they are accurate and will do the job. Reason is a bit long winded which is why I didn't go into it in the first post. I have an issue with my car being 'underpowered' and having a very lazy power curve. Using a Hypergear ATR43G2, my car is only making 295rwhp @16psi with full boost by 4500rpm and peak power is only at redline. When my tuner tries to run more boost, the engine knocks. All symptoms point to a restriction somewhere. First we thought it was my cat, so we dropped my exhaust but that didn't make a difference. Intake piping is a custom 3" stainless steel job with Apexi power intake and Z32 AFM, so no restriction there. Then we thought perhaps there was something wrong with the turbo itself, so Stao was very helpful and sent out a new ATR43 that he had tested on his own car to prove it could make the power. That didn't make a difference either. I sent the old turbo back to Stao for diagnosis, and sure enough there was nothing wrong with it. He did say that the compressor wheel was a strange colour, which shows it has got very hot. Again it would appear there is a restriction. I have pulled everything apart looking for possible blockages but found nothing. The only other thing I can think of is the cooler is restrictive. I might as well attach the dyno graphs I've had so far: This is the first one from when I got everything installed and tuned: This is the second one from when we tried dropping the exhaust: And this is the latest one after we installed the new turbo:

Ok just had a look. What if I tee into the line going to my boost controller solenoid (on custom cooler piping, straight after turbo) and then tee the other line into the little hose connected to the stock crossover pipe (next to the bov, can't remember what it does)? That would be fairly accurate yes??

Yes I know how to do the test, I just don't know where to tee into to get the most accurate results. Xrated's suggestion would be the best, but I don't want to drill into my cooler...

Wayyy too involved

A little unsure what you mean, but sort of sounds like a leak. Or could be anything like plugs, coil packs, afm... Hard to say based on the description you've given.

That's me Discovered my crunch at Powercruise, Redline sorted it out. Hasn't done it since. Well worth the money I paid for it, +1 for Harold (@ PerformanceLub James ).

Hey all, I am going to do a pressure drop test on my intercooler using a manometer to test if it is a restriction; I just wanted to double check where I should tee into? I figured on the cold side of the cooler I can tee into anywhere near the manifold (Bov line ok??), but I'm a bit unsure as to where I should tee into on the turbo side? Thanks in advance Martin.

Fully agree. And I see... What were you saying before about copying the tune to create a knock map? Maybe that's what my tuner has done... He was telling me how the knock map he setup uses richer AFR's and has about 2-3 degrees less timing. I had an issue when I first got my car tuned where something sent it into the knock map and I was getting terrible fuel economy and it made really low power at a dyno comp. So fairly sure it has a map setup that it will go into if it detects knock...

I know my car has a knock map set up? Was gonna go read the NIStune website to see if Type 4 daughter-boards have knock map capability, then I realized I could not be bothered I really don't see the argument between ECU's. Your car is not going to make another 100rwhp just because you bought a PFC and not a NIStune, and vise versa. For me it was as simple as looking at what I wanted to do with the car, then speaking to my tuner. Andy (Hyperdrive) said he is very happy to tune either, but for budget and ease of installation/setup, he told me to go with the NIStune. Done.

NA section :wub:

Even then it's not really valid... At dyno competitions where cars are doing 3 straight back-to-back runs, I've seen big differences in the number each time. Last time dyno comp I was in, my car made 229rwhp first run, 244.6rwhp 2nd run, and 238rwhp last run. Nothing changed between each run, still saw different numbers. Personally I take dyno readings with a pinch of salt, they are a tuning tool not a comparison device. Like using a hammer as a ruler.

Just read up to page 3. And I think I have lost some IQ points from doing so. Farkin shit thread lol.

Just reading through that first page ^ There is so much misinformation in that thread

I would say speak to your tuner. End of the day, they are the ones tuning it, and that's what determines how good it is.

Yehhh VCT is definitely not useless, I'll try to find my dyno graph similar to above. It's a pig when it's disabled.

Turbocharged carby motors confuzzle me... Like if you are using a draw-through setup, how does the turbo go having to compress fuel as well? Would the fuel not have a tendency to pool everywhere, regardless of if you have an intercooler or not? And is it not rather counterproductive having the carby creating a pressure drop and then the turbo trying to increase the pressure? And if you are using a blow-through setup (mute point in your case, but thought I'd bring it up anyway), wouldn't you be running your engine extremely lean at high boost? Considering carby's would apply the same amount of fuel to 0psi as they would to 10psi?

Sorry I should have clarified, I meant stay away from net carbs. So carbs that have a lot of impact on your blood sugar level. You want to be eating food that reduces the amount of glucose in your blood so that you are burning stored fat instead of glucose. Carbs found in salads don't produce a lot of glucose so they are fine. See what I mean? It's a bit complex, I'm not sure if I am explaining what I mean correctly... In any case, I agree with this: I'm not a fan of loading anything, in my opinion you need a balanced diet, don't cut out certain elements.

If you're trying to bulk, it's better to eat lots of fatty foods. Still healthy, just lots of fat calories. So like salads with full fat dressing, things like that. I would try to avoid carbs, so be careful with things like milk and nuts which have lots of fat calories but also a fair amount of carbs.