Hanaldo

Got approval from an engineer for the way I did my seats, so mine are fine Just need to make sure that the holes being drilled and tapped doesn't change the structural integrity of the seat. This is how I did mine: Seat mounts, as they came: The holes were about an inch away from aligning: So measured it all up, drilled and tapped holes where they needed to be: This was good enough for the engineer, he was happy with the new holes being positioned on the same mounting points as the holes the Sparco came with. Could be a different story being over east though.

Definitely speak to your tuner first. In my case, I've got a Link G4 plug-in, and my tuner has no problems tuning it. BUT, he doesn't know it as well as he does Haltech. While the Link is very comparable to the Haltech, he could do a much better job tuning a Haltech ECU, simply because he has a lot of experience with them. Not to say he doesn't do a great job tuning with the Link, but when you go to such a powerful stand-alone ECU there are a lot of ways to set things up, so with the Haltech he knows exactly what he wants to do and how he wants to set it up, but with the Link he needs to figure it out. In the end, the two ECU's might both be great ECU's, but if going with one over the other means your tuner knows exactly how to get it to idle perfectly with the A/C on first time without you needing to bring it back for little corrections, etc...

By the way, I imagine given your setup you are probably planning on changing all the lines anyway, but just to let you know in case you go through the same headache I'm going through now; The standard fuel lines going to the fittings on the fuel lid are NOT push on hose. It is not as simple as replacing the fittings in the lid with AN barbed fittings and pushing the old hose on. They are plastic hard lines, so designed to be one piece with the fitting. Hence why they use those special fittings rather than standard barbed ends and a hose clamp. This would be fine if it was a simple job to replace those hoses, but it really isn't. It's impossible without removing the fuel tank. I'm now going to run a new fuel line and ditch the factory hard line.

Woah. Hell of an expensive place to get it from haha. I paid $220 delivered for mine from Vulture Motorsport. Express delivery too.

As if his answer is going to stop you doing a burnout!

Just get some proper rails to suit the 34 floor pan (I'm using Recaro, but Bride or any bottom mount seat rail to suit 34 will work) and then drill and tap some holes to fit them up. It only took about 40 minutes to do man, just a bit of measuring and re-measuring then 5 minutes to drill and tap! Also you never know, they MAY just bolt straight up and then you're laughing! I dunno about you, but the last thing I would want to do is increase the seat height. I actually find the seats are too high to begin with, I'm only 178cm but with a helmet on my head strokes the roof a bit. Any higher and I'd be doing motorsport events with my neck at 90 degrees!

How does that help with getting through the lid and past the jet pump though?

I understand the majority of the plan, but still not quite sure what you are doing with the fuel lid. Are you just using the one AN bulkhead fitting and keeping the plastic return fitting? This is what I think I am gonna have to do, though I'd prefer not to... I have also thought about using a Speedflow tube adapter to convert the plastic fitting to an AN fitting. This would maintain the jet pump setup, AND allow me to run PTFE hose. The only thing is, the plastic fitting is an odd design and might not work with the tube adapter.

Yes, it's a very capable unit! I will definitely post results, though I'm not expecting anything outstanding. If it cracks 350rwhp again then I'll be happy until I can sort out whatever is holding it back. Picking up some Speedflow gear tomorrow to sort out the broken fuel lid fitting, then in the arvo I'll be testing this batch of E85 that I've got and comparing my findings to what my ECU reads. Fingers crossed the calibration is spot on!

Exactly. Also I have snapped the moulded fittings twice now, they are junk. AN fittings will make life a lot easier.

Seems a redundant question, both are excellent by all accounts. Give them both a call and see which one you feel more comfortable with.

Ah, just re-read Scotty's post. So in an R34 with just a single internal fuel pump, I can't ditch this jet pump? What are my options for using AN fittings in place of the moulded ones?

Well after all that... I pulled the fuel pump out today and inspected everything. All appeared in order, wiring was fine, connections were fine, pump looked fine. Connected the pump direct to the battery and it turned on, so fuel pump is obviously fine. Right, must be the relay. Test the relay for continuity, all is fine, test the coil for contact when powered (the 'click') all is fine. Thinking the arm inside must be burnt out, I pulled the relay to pieces but it was in perfect condition. Confused. So I put it all back together and tested for voltage at the relay posts when the key was turned ON. 12v. So the fker HAS TO work! Put it all back together the way it was, turn the key to ON and... Voila! Works first time. So after all that, it must have simply been a bad connection at the relay. I checked that last night, but it must have been in the pulling all the connectors off and putting them back on that it sorted everything out. Bloody electronics BUT, I'm pleased I don't have to spend any money to fix any of that! Only thing I need to fix is the fuel lid after snapping the fitting, but I wanted to put AN fittings in there anyway so that's no big deal. Just have to figure out what to do with this 'jet pump'...

So these can just be ditched? It won't create problems with fuel getting stuck on one side of the tank? I also need to replace the moulded fittings with AN fittings, but I drive around pretty sedately on the streets, so I don't think I'd be doing much cornering hard enough to swish the fuel around...

Well my tuner has plenty of experience with flex fuel setups, but not with Link ecus, only with Haltechs. But after going to the tech night last night, I'm quite confident the Link can do everything the Haltech can, so I'm sure it will work. Its just a case of my tuner figuring out how to do it, but some of the stuff he was going through last night and with me on the phone was amazing, so I'm sure he can do it. I picked up 5L of E85 on my way home that I'm going to do some testing on to check how accurate Links configuration is. However, I did have some drama with the car on the way home last night. About 2kms away from my house, the car stopped accelerating and then just died on me. After a quick check under the bonnet I noticed I had no fuel pressure at the rail, and sure enough when I turned the key I couldn't hear the pump prime. So in the middle of a busy street (no chance of pushing it off the road) I got into the boot and tried to get to the pump. I could feel the relay click when I turned the key, so it's not a problem with the relay. Quick check with the multimeter showed I was getting power at the terminals on top of the lid, so the problem is inside the fuel tank. I started trying to get the lid off, but in undoing one of Nissan's f**kING STUPID plastic fittings, it snapped clean off. So with no chance of fixing it where I was, I decided it was time to call a tow truck. As I was on the phone, an exceptionally nice couple in a transit group service Ute pulled up and asked if I needed help. I told them there wasn't much that could be done, but they offered to give me a tow. They quickly drove home and the bloke cut the seatbelt out of his project car and used it as a tow strap. The 5 minute drive home is the most nerve wrecking experience I have had in my car, being 30cms off their tailgate knowing I had no brakes... But, we got it all the way back to my place without any damage whatsoever and they helped me push it into the garage where it is now sitting awaiting diagnosis. I offered to pay the couple for their help but they adamantly refused. I'm very grateful there are still people around who are so selfless, it was a refreshing change from the Commodores driving past me doing burnouts and hooting at me while I was stuck. Thank you, kind strangers.

Haha hey man, you managed to piece together the rest of this fiiiiine automobile without me linking you to each part! Hey you went to that Haltech tech-night that JEM put on awhile ago yeh? Was it good?

Precisely Though getting the sensor into the ethanol is going to be tricky, seeing it's all wired into place now. Really should have tested it before installing

I can link you to a picture? I buy mine locally, I don't know of any online stores, though I'm sure there are plenty.

I might as well go and get some E85 and stick the sensor in it to see what the two units read. Then I can measure the ethanol content and temperature myself and compare it to see which unit is correct. The fuel temperature itself doesn't actually worry me too much, I want to use it as an indicator but it's not critical. The ethanol content I need to make sure is spot on though.

You can get the fire-proof sleeve with a black outer coating.

This is what I did, works fine. Would have used some sheet, but I had to buy half a meter of the sleeve to do my 10cm turbo oil return pipe, so I had plenty left over. Just sliced it in half, wrapped up my cables, and cable tied it together. No problems thus far, though I don't have a high mount...

Well, just had a good chat to my tuner about doing the flex fuel setup, and it's got me a liiiiiiittle bit nervous haha. He said basically he has never done a Link flex setup before, so he doesn't know how accurate their calibration for the sensor is. He knows Haltech is perfect, but having never done a Link before it means that I am trusting that Link have got their calibration for the sensor spot on. Normally I'd be fine with that because I've seen the guys on here using Link to setup flex fuel, and it works perfectly by all accounts, BUT. Having setup everything my self and knowing that Link uses the calibration for GM/Siemens ethanol sensors for Continental sensors, as well as the fact that I can't get my ECU to read the same as my Zeitronix ECA display... I'm a tad nervous. So my tuner invited me to a tech night tonight, which is actually about Haltech products, but he thinks flex fuel is going to be a major talking point so it might be worthwhile for me to come along and I think it sounds interesting so I'll probably go check it out.

Using a Link G4 plug-in. No analog inputs left unfortunately, need to use the digital signal. I will try to find which temp is correct. Got a reply from Zeitronix, but whoever replied doesn't speak English very well. The guys at Link think it will be a case of each device being off, one reading a little low one reading a little high. I'm not so sure, but I'll figure out what the temp actually is and go from there.

Bah, just buy a small fibreglassing kit from Bunnings or Masters for $20 or so and play around with it a bit before you try to fix the headlights. Once your confident you know how to work the glass and the resin, give it a go. Worst case scenario is you make a bit of a mess so you pull the fibreglass off and clean up the resin with Acetone before it cures, then give it another go.

Part number is 13577394, but I don't have a data sheet for it.