Hanaldo
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Everything posted by Hanaldo
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I am now confused
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Only over a certain temperature though. It doesn't double wear when it is perfectly within it's operating temperature. Running at 95 degrees compared to 85 degrees isn't doubling the wear on everything.
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Isn't it every 10 degrees over the maximum coolant operating temperature halves the engine life expectancy? Not sure what that maximum temperature is on an R34, but it would surely be much higher than standard water boiling point.
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Yeh 95 isn't that bad. With coolant and a properly pressurized system, you're no where near boiling point. I've seen my water temps hit 110 during a track day, have seen full on race cars reach as high as 160 degrees without damaging anything.
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Photos of dent? I highly doubt a small dent is going to cause any issues.
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Good in...
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I got mine from JustJap. Never had an issue, doesn't leak a drop.
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Probably try searching before posting
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It's stock as far as I know, I haven't put in anything aftermarket. Small chance that it has an aftermarket one in it from Japan but I wouldn't know for sure.
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:O :O :O You have been ripped off sir.
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Transmission and oil cooler won't lower the water temperature... 100 seems rather high? My temp gauge sits at around 70-75 during everyday driving, doesn't make much difference what the outside temperature is. Gets maybe as high as 90 if I'm flogging it around. That's with a triple core alloy radiator though.
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Also running a Walbro GSS342 in my car with no issues. Plugged straight into my stock location, I used the stock wiring harness and sock and it fitted directly onto the stock cradle. I had absolutely no idea what I was doing and it took me 5 minutes to install. The only thing I did wrong was I somehow reversed the polarities meaning the pump was running backwards. Rewiring the pump to run directly from the battery wasn't hard either. Took me about an hour, most of that was running the wire from the engine bay to the boot. Much, much quicker if your battery is in your boot lol.
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Used a pressure differential gauge. One line tapped into the hot side, the other line tapped into the cold side. It's definitely not the exhaust, I take it you haven't heard of Kermit before lol. In any case, I was using a JJR front/dump pipe before I got the custom one made. The new one is much better. The dump is 80mm all the way from the bellmouth back to the cat, the cat has an 80mm inlet/outlet with a 5" body. The dump and cat-back were made with the cat in mind so we made sure they were the same size and there wouldn't be any restrictions anywhere. -
1st of April? Lame April fools joke =\
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I'll take an ounce please.
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What would cause that? Restriction I imagine? Where else could there be a restriction? Everything seems to be pointing to a restriction of some kind. I pulled all my intake and cooler piping off today, made sure none of it was blocked. Did another pressure drop test across the intercooler, only about 1psi difference. Did all hose clamps back up tightly and made sure everything was sealed, no vacuum leaks. Stao which graph is that? I don't have a print out of boost?
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All good, got it back on. Arms are scratched to shit now lol. Will have to wait until tomorrow to get a new clip, everything is shut now. Anyway, can cross wastegate not closing properly off the list.
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Ok sweet, thanks mate. I suppose for size I can just take the broken eclip along? I can not get this farkin rod back on the wastegate lol. Kind of emasculating, I can't even get it to budge
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Yeh I've completed the steps, it appears the actuator was already perfectly adjusted as I didn't have to adjust it at all according to how Stao said to do it, so I can rule that out as a possible cause of my trouble. In the process of getting the rod back onto the arm now but fark me it's hard lol. Where can I get another e-clip from???
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Ok so this has gone horribly wrong... The E-clip snapped in the process of getting it off. What do I do now
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Really it's custom, what I said before is probably a bit misleading. It was designed using a Tomei Expreme GTR dump as a model, so the dump section looks almost exactly like a Tomei dump pipe but made to fit an RB25 turbo and is 3" all the way through from the bellmouth. From there back it is a straight cut pipe to the cat. All one piece. Made by Kermit
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As I said, not too worried about the number, it's just a number. My power curve on the stock turbo was fine. When my car had the stock turbo it was tuned on Hyperdrives old dyno. Their dyno was known to read 20-30rwhp lower than all other dynos in the area, so the power figure would have been about right. Since I have had the new turbo, Hyperdrive haven't tuned my car with their own dyno.
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Yeh I have a ECUTalk cable. It works with ECUTalk, but it gives trouble with NIStune and Datascan. Still haven't got it to work properly yet.
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Fair enough, just a thought. Looking forward to Stao's results with the turbo today. I am using a Tomei bellmouth dump/front pipe, I'll try to get a photo. Well done on the engine bay, looks very stock indeed.
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Ok great, thanks for that. I will double check that in the morning. However is this likely to cause the heat build up and pinging over 16psi? Also a side note, is the ATR43G2 rated to 450hp at the flywheel? Would that not translate to roughly 300rwhp which is almost what my car is making?
